Im not really looking for the sharpest specs i can get i just want a car just drives straight and can take smooth bends. i mainly got the coilovers to try and diagnose the height issue which was obviously fixed and for a slight drop.

 

You must have posted before I edited. I went back and read your specs and they weren't that bad. Killerpenguin's probably right about the front camber bolt. I had to explain to my alignment tech how to change the front camber.

I'm sure you probably have a 6 month warranty on the alignment so I'd have them fix the front. You don't want uneven tire wear on 1 tire or you'll end up wasting money on 4 more.

 

Just out of curiosity, check your 2 front bolts that the strut attaches. Are the arrows both pointing in the same direction? I have seen this before and someone installed coilovers and just jammed the bolts back in, he didn't know they were eccentrics.

 

Does anyone knoe how the car reacts with these settings? it drives straight under most conditions, it boosts straight and tramlines a little on road crowns and bumps. It feels solid but the wheel will turn right with no hands more than the left but if the road goes left it will go left sometimes

 

zero toe will add to the tramlining, but that much cross camber could definitely cause a tugging sensation as well as a very unstable feeling. im pretty sure you will find the arrows on the bolts pointing in opposite directions. it wont cause a tire wear issue, but it could be uncomfortably unstable

 

Over bumps front end will twitch to the right with that much uneven camber.

 

Will it tend to go right with these settings? and how will it react with equal settings?

 

It will. We used to set up our race cars depending on the track and how many turns(left or right). The more camber you have on one particular wheel will help in the turn in of that corner. So I guess, you could say your car drives straight, but if you want to make a quick right your good.

 

Ok so driving straight the car has a more chance of going right then left. It goes were there is less camber.

 

Is there a way i can give myself the allowable -2.0 degrees of camber by using the eccentric and not screwing up my alignment?

 

on the front, the toe and camber are independent so you should be ok. BUT, you are not guaranteed to get -2 or even same side to side bu just having the bolts pointed the same. when i was only using the stock bolts i could swing to -2 on the left but only -1.7 on the right. best thing to do is match the bolts and then match the camber with the camber plated you spent good money for. its not difficult, gut you need a shop with a good machine.

 

Another question is if the cars driving nice and straight now and i got to add the missing camber to the right side will it track straight anymore?