Bushings question
Bushings question
I was told today by an alignment shop the lower control arm bushings are bad in the back right. My question is can this the reason my car is sitting a little lower there? This is the diagram
That bushing is a soft bushing stock and should be replaced--however, it isnt going to solve a sagging problem with the rear end.. you need to check shocks and springs if the rear is riding low.
I just put brand new coils and it still sags, the car was involved in 2 cosmetic accidents 10mph into snow front right, and backed into back left. Its only like a 1/4" but its annoying.
Last edited by deadstockkpomp; May 2, 2013 at 05:59 AM.
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I have measured fender gap and points on the car the control arm is loose thats why im assuming its that i will check for off centered positioning later. But if this is the case can this offset the ride height?
Now as far as those stock bushings go... Yes they can effect your ride height as stated before and illustrated in that picture. Keep in mind the evo 8/9s are anywhere from 6-10 years old now so over time those bushings and other things like rubber lines start to break down. You should definitely get those bushings upgraded to stiffer ones or go with ROBISPEC spherical bearings in your suspension arms. And with the sphericals your car will really stay planted in the corners.
Hope this helps.
Are u getting new coils as in springs or actual height adjustable coilovers? 1/4" of sag it can be expected on the rear of most EVO 8/9s if they have the stock struts/springs with 40,000+ miles on average (that's average and not taking into consideration how some people abuse their cars suspension or drive them in the snow with salt all over the roads) or aftermarket coilovers that have a lower spring rate in the rear from the front. Yes I know you're thinking "well isn't most of the cars weight in the front so shouldn't it have a higher spring rate in the front and lower in the rear?" The real answeris no due to the way the rear suspension arms' geometries are setup.
Now as far as those stock bushings go... Yes they can effect your ride height as stated before and illustrated in that picture. Keep in mind the evo 8/9s are anywhere from 6-10 years old now so over time those bushings and other things like rubber lines start to break down. You should definitely get those bushings upgraded to stiffer ones or go with ROBISPEC spherical bearings in your suspension arms. And with the sphericals your car will really stay planted in the corners.
Hope this helps.
Now as far as those stock bushings go... Yes they can effect your ride height as stated before and illustrated in that picture. Keep in mind the evo 8/9s are anywhere from 6-10 years old now so over time those bushings and other things like rubber lines start to break down. You should definitely get those bushings upgraded to stiffer ones or go with ROBISPEC spherical bearings in your suspension arms. And with the sphericals your car will really stay planted in the corners.
Hope this helps.
Left:

Right:
The '03-'04s aren't dinosaurs. They are great cars. In fact their transfer cases tend to last longer due to no additional ACD hardware which some people don't like non ACD but its about 100lbs lighter without it. That's why a lot of racers take it out because they don't need to switch between gravel, Tarmac or snow modes. And some parts on the Evo 8s were just made better or stronger like the rear wings.
Anyways moving on. Your right side picture with the adjuster washer on the bottom definitely effects you alignment. Maybe your ride height too due to the bushings being bad, especially since the bolt/washer are not in the proper place to where it's creating a solid platform between the lower arm and the bolt with adjuster washer. Try the bushings and flipping the adjuster washer back. Then realign your rear suspension.
Also take a look at your left coilover vs the right and see if there's a height difference between the adjuster/lock rings and the bottom bolting point of the coilover. If u have a small tape measure then that would be great to get a more accurate measurement. If not then take a piece of tape and attach one end to the bottom bolt and the other to the top just above the lock/adjuster rings. Then with a sharpie make a notch on the tape at the very top part of the bolt that the tape is touching and at the bottom ring. Make sure u use the same location for both sides and then take the tape off and lay boh pieces side by side and look for the marks to match up. If they aren't very close then make your adjustments for the height difference you measured. This works best with coilovers where the height is adjusted separately from everything else. Some coilovers adjust heights by either compressing the spring more to lower height or decompressing to raise ride height. But a lot of the aftermarket companies now have that stuff separate now.
Try that and see where you're at in ride height. If after adjusting for height in the rear and making sure both sides are even and u still have sag then it may just be your spring rate is too low in the rear or you have worn out your coilovers.
Now your clunking can be a couple of things. Worn out coilovers that are allowing the shock to bottom out and or poorly adjusted rebound/dampening. Also based off of how some suspension is made it just comes from the factory a little noisier than others. I've heard of more complaints about the cheaper coilovers ($400-$900 range) making odd noises. And probably the last thing would be loose nuts/bolt mounting hardware.
Anyways moving on. Your right side picture with the adjuster washer on the bottom definitely effects you alignment. Maybe your ride height too due to the bushings being bad, especially since the bolt/washer are not in the proper place to where it's creating a solid platform between the lower arm and the bolt with adjuster washer. Try the bushings and flipping the adjuster washer back. Then realign your rear suspension.
Also take a look at your left coilover vs the right and see if there's a height difference between the adjuster/lock rings and the bottom bolting point of the coilover. If u have a small tape measure then that would be great to get a more accurate measurement. If not then take a piece of tape and attach one end to the bottom bolt and the other to the top just above the lock/adjuster rings. Then with a sharpie make a notch on the tape at the very top part of the bolt that the tape is touching and at the bottom ring. Make sure u use the same location for both sides and then take the tape off and lay boh pieces side by side and look for the marks to match up. If they aren't very close then make your adjustments for the height difference you measured. This works best with coilovers where the height is adjusted separately from everything else. Some coilovers adjust heights by either compressing the spring more to lower height or decompressing to raise ride height. But a lot of the aftermarket companies now have that stuff separate now.
Try that and see where you're at in ride height. If after adjusting for height in the rear and making sure both sides are even and u still have sag then it may just be your spring rate is too low in the rear or you have worn out your coilovers.
Now your clunking can be a couple of things. Worn out coilovers that are allowing the shock to bottom out and or poorly adjusted rebound/dampening. Also based off of how some suspension is made it just comes from the factory a little noisier than others. I've heard of more complaints about the cheaper coilovers ($400-$900 range) making odd noises. And probably the last thing would be loose nuts/bolt mounting hardware.
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