Suspension/stability modding
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From: Northern virginia
Suspension/stability modding
Looking for recommendations in the suspension and stability department. Gonna put most my time/funds into that instead of power. Any suggestions welcome, not looking for coilover help kale easy have my mind set on those. Thanks
Any goals/objectives in particular?
I just installed Bilstein HD's w/ RCE springs to replace my stock KYB's that also had RCE springs and wow, the ride is very noticeably smoother over rough pavement/bumps/dips now. If you aren't looking for coilovers then Bilsteins (either the ones from the MR or the HD's) could be worth looking into.
(I'm assuming you don't have an MR and therefore don't already have Bilsteins)
I just installed Bilstein HD's w/ RCE springs to replace my stock KYB's that also had RCE springs and wow, the ride is very noticeably smoother over rough pavement/bumps/dips now. If you aren't looking for coilovers then Bilsteins (either the ones from the MR or the HD's) could be worth looking into.
(I'm assuming you don't have an MR and therefore don't already have Bilsteins)
Good is subjective. You want it to be stiffer? You want more/less oversteer? You want more responsive steering? Other than shocks/ springs suspension/ handling changes are better regarded as "customization" than "upgrades". Just because your drive a class A time attack car doesn't mean a stock swaybar isn't the best piece for the way you want the car to handle.
Thread Starter
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From: Northern virginia
Good is subjective. You want it to be stiffer? You want more/less oversteer? You want more responsive steering? Other than shocks/ springs suspension/ handling changes are better regarded as "customization" than "upgrades". Just because your drive a class A time attack car doesn't mean a stock swaybar isn't the best piece for the way you want the car to handle.
The simplest way to do that is a larger rear swaybar. This reduces rear body roll in the rear which transfers weight to the tires faster, which is similar to the reduction of wheel hop with stiffer engine mounts. I've never heard of swaybar breaking, so as far as I know no bar is better than another; it's the bar diameter that you care about. The thicker the bar the less body roll and by extension, an increased tendency to oversteer.
I run a whiteline 24mm RSB with matching end links, and I think it's a good set up. You can find bars up to 27-28mm but for what I use the car for, it would be too easy to spin.
As far as steering response, the best way is by stiffening the dampers/spring rates and lowering the center of gravity. Most people just get coil overs since the springs are matched to the dampers and the height is adjustable.
I run fortune auto 500 coil overs, which are a good middle middle of the road model. The thing is with coil overs, you really get what you pay for. If you buy a set from Megan or someone else for $500 or something, the chances are that they are going to ride like garbage, and are only good for going low for looks.
Another thing to keep in mind is alignment settings. Depending n what you use the car for, the settings that you use will make a big difference. Most people that dd their car and just want a more aggressive ride will use 0 toe, and maybe -1 or-2 degrees camber, however playing with spring rates, camber and toe will drastically change he way the car handles.
Beyond swapping suspension bushings and perhaps a rear swaybar and coil overs, I would really suggest doing some research about what you're looking for. Like I said earlier, suspension tuning is more customization than upgrades.
Good luck!
I run a whiteline 24mm RSB with matching end links, and I think it's a good set up. You can find bars up to 27-28mm but for what I use the car for, it would be too easy to spin.
As far as steering response, the best way is by stiffening the dampers/spring rates and lowering the center of gravity. Most people just get coil overs since the springs are matched to the dampers and the height is adjustable.
I run fortune auto 500 coil overs, which are a good middle middle of the road model. The thing is with coil overs, you really get what you pay for. If you buy a set from Megan or someone else for $500 or something, the chances are that they are going to ride like garbage, and are only good for going low for looks.
Another thing to keep in mind is alignment settings. Depending n what you use the car for, the settings that you use will make a big difference. Most people that dd their car and just want a more aggressive ride will use 0 toe, and maybe -1 or-2 degrees camber, however playing with spring rates, camber and toe will drastically change he way the car handles.
Beyond swapping suspension bushings and perhaps a rear swaybar and coil overs, I would really suggest doing some research about what you're looking for. Like I said earlier, suspension tuning is more customization than upgrades.
Good luck!
Last edited by djdnav; May 5, 2013 at 10:34 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Northern virginia
The simplest way to do that is a larger rear swaybar. This reduces rear body roll in the rear which transfers weight to the tires faster, which is similar to the reduction of wheel hop with stiffer engine mounts. I've never heard of swaybar breaking, so as far as I know no bar is better than another; it's the bar diameter that you care about. The thicker the bar the less body roll and by extension, an increased tendency to oversteer.
I run a whiteline 24mm RSB with matching end links, and I think it's a good set up. You can find bars up to 27-28mm but for what I use the car for, it would be too easy to spin.
As far as steering response, the best way is by stiffening the dampers/spring rates and lowering the center of gravity. Most people just get coil overs since the springs are matched to the dampers and the height is adjustable.
I run fortune auto 500 coil overs, which are a good middle middle of the road model. The thing is with coil overs, you really get what you pay for. If you buy a set from Megan or someone else for $500 or something, the chances are that they are going to ride like garbage, and are only good for going low for looks.
Another thing to keep in mind is alignment settings. Depending n what you use the car for, the settings that you use will make a big difference. Most people that dd their car and just want a more aggressive ride will use 0 toe, and maybe -1 or-2 degrees camber, however playing with spring rates, camber and toe will drastically change he way the car handles.
Beyond swapping suspension bushings and perhaps a rear swaybar and coil overs, I would really suggest doing some research about what you're looking for. Like I said earlier, suspension tuning is more customization than upgrades.
Good luck!
I run a whiteline 24mm RSB with matching end links, and I think it's a good set up. You can find bars up to 27-28mm but for what I use the car for, it would be too easy to spin.
As far as steering response, the best way is by stiffening the dampers/spring rates and lowering the center of gravity. Most people just get coil overs since the springs are matched to the dampers and the height is adjustable.
I run fortune auto 500 coil overs, which are a good middle middle of the road model. The thing is with coil overs, you really get what you pay for. If you buy a set from Megan or someone else for $500 or something, the chances are that they are going to ride like garbage, and are only good for going low for looks.
Another thing to keep in mind is alignment settings. Depending n what you use the car for, the settings that you use will make a big difference. Most people that dd their car and just want a more aggressive ride will use 0 toe, and maybe -1 or-2 degrees camber, however playing with spring rates, camber and toe will drastically change he way the car handles.
Beyond swapping suspension bushings and perhaps a rear swaybar and coil overs, I would really suggest doing some research about what you're looking for. Like I said earlier, suspension tuning is more customization than upgrades.
Good luck!
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Any goals/objectives in particular?
I just installed Bilstein HD's w/ RCE springs to replace my stock KYB's that also had RCE springs and wow, the ride is very noticeably smoother over rough pavement/bumps/dips now. If you aren't looking for coilovers then Bilsteins (either the ones from the MR or the HD's) could be worth looking into.
(I'm assuming you don't have an MR and therefore don't already have Bilsteins)
I just installed Bilstein HD's w/ RCE springs to replace my stock KYB's that also had RCE springs and wow, the ride is very noticeably smoother over rough pavement/bumps/dips now. If you aren't looking for coilovers then Bilsteins (either the ones from the MR or the HD's) could be worth looking into.
(I'm assuming you don't have an MR and therefore don't already have Bilsteins)
A good set of coilovers and a rear diff mod are more important than stiffer sways. If you are trying to reduce push and induce oversteer the plate swap or a 12-plate mod like the Weir Performance one will help a lot. Invest in a decent set of coilovers otherwise you are better off with stock shocks and just upgrading the springs.
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