Right chaps...

So, while I was rage quitting on my lower ball joint, I of course tore through the outer boot on my CV.

Now... the vehicle wasn't driven, so there was no need to suspect a failure, or dirt getting in there, so rather than just getting a new axle, I opted to get the replacement boots from Mitsu.

My questions.

1. I recall reading that in order to change the outer boot, the inner boot needs to come off. Is there a reason for this? Normally on a CV, both sides are removable/serviceable individually, but I wasn't sure if the Evo had something special going on.

2. Normally, you'd want to get as much grease out of each end as possible, but that would be because you're trying to limit the contamination. In this instance, since dirt hasn't gotten inside, I would logically surmise that I can just get away with a wipedown? Does that make sense... or am I missing something?

 

Ah c'mon fellas... no one has any input here?

I know replacing boots is rare compared to just swapping axles... but damn. I thought I'd at least get someone to reply...

 

Only thing I could find was in the service manual around page 26-19. Looks like they want you to wipe all excess grease off and use brand new grease. Also I'm pretty sure you can change out the outer boot without doing anything with the inner. I think they only reason they state to do both is to do a full service on the axle with new grease and new boots all around. Good luck!

 

Thanks Matrho.

For some reason my service manual wasn't working.

But yeah... It looks typical enough. I'm going to be wiping all the excess out, but I doubt I'm going to parts wash it. I'll eval once I get in there.

I plan on doing both just for good measure, but it'll be easier to go at it from either end I suspect than just going all through one end.

I'm going to put together a how to as I'm doing it.

 

For search purposes. I just loaded up the FSM, and it doesn't say why, but it definitely indicates only removing the inner bearings.

So for arguments sake... to replace the outer boot, you've got to replace the inner boot.

 

Take it apart and you'll see. The inner joint is easily serviceable (triple roller needle bearing set up in a tripot), the outer joint is a fixed standard CV (ball and cage) that you do not want to take apart.
The outer boot slides off toward the inner boot. If the inner boot is not removed you can't get the outer boot off.

Make sure you have enough grease to clean and regrease both joints if you want to do it right. A boot kit will only come with enough grease for one joint unless you get a two-boot kit.

 

I'll have to remember that myself for future reference. Thanks superbovine

 

I went with the full replacement w/ used driver side axle.
But if you can't find one it's worthwhile getting the boot kit fo$69 instead of $650 for new axle from a dealer.

I'm thinking about getting the kit myself to keep the old axle as a spare...
Shouldn't be too hard repairing it at home... GL

 

I've never seen a boot kit that didn't come with grease. And, yeah, to remove the outer you first remove the inner. The easy way to get things apart is to cut the clamps with a Dremel cutoff tool. The tripod on the inner end is held on by a c-ring. Don't let the rollers come off as the needle bearings fall out. You'll need a clamp pliers. That's about it.

 

Single boot kits come with single servings of grease. If you want to regrease both joints you need to either by extra grease or buy a two-boot kit. Don't cut the clamps off, that is a bad idea especially if you are trying to reuse one boot. Just spread the clamp like you are supposed to. Needle bearings will only come out if your roller bearings are shot to shiat or you throw them across the room a few times. A good bearing will not come apart even if you drop it. Just use care when sliding it off in case yours is in worse shape than you think,

 

I just use diagonal cutters like pliers and they come right off. Easy peasy.

I ordered the 2 boot kit, came with both types of grease, both types of clamps, but only one boot. And of course... it was the non-special one. It worked alright, because I only "needed" that boot, but still... c'mon!

 

Ya if you use side cutters you can pop it, I was more concerned over people using a cutting disc since you will usually damage the boot.

Because of the work I do I regularly have to re-use those clamps. If you are dealing with an inner you can use a flat edge screw driver and a mallet to spread the fold-over tabs, then open the clamp up and slide it off. Reinstall in reverse, fold one tab down to hold the clamp, then use pliers to close them both together. On outside boots or aftermarket clamps you can insert a narrow flat edge screw driver in the pinch gather and spread it out sufficiently to lift the clamp off the locking tab. Straight the pinch so it is "U" shaped for reassembly then clamp down to tighten.

Of course replacing the boots it isn't that big of a deal since factory kits come with new clamps. If you are going in for other reasons though (maintenance repack, cage repack, etc), or if you are unlucky enough to get some of the bad batch of inner clamps Mitsubishi made a year or three ago, the option to reuse is good to have.

 

I'm pleased to see people willing to replace boots. I've never seen a Mitsubishi axle that was anything but perfect if caught when it started throwing grease. Dealing with the grease is messy but aftermarket rebuilt stuff is sometimes good and sometimes otherwise.

My WRX came from the factory with front inner axle boots that leaked right through the clamps. The replacements I got from Advance Auto boots have never been anything but dry. I've never heard of anyone making aftermarket boots for the Evo but if they do I wouldn't be afraid to give them a try.

 

It's a really messy job, so if you don't have a garage then I would not do it. I did one in the past and had no problems except for the clamp coming off eventually. I bought the tool for the clamp, but you still need more force than whats possible with the tool, meaning you need pipes to give you more leverage.