Driving around, intermittently the radio shuts off, volt gauge on my turbo timer drops between 10-11 volts, engine feels like it cuts off. Only for like a second. Happens while driving or idling at red lights. Happens with ac on or off while playing the radio and ac on or off with radio off(gf watched the turbo timer gauge while I was driving).

Wierd thing is, I just had the car idling in the driveway. Ac on max, radio on, lights and dogs on, all while I had my fluke 87 connected to the battery on min/max. Lowest the voltage got was 12.48 on the meter, 12.0 on the turbo timer. Wiggled the engine harness around the battery/fuse box/alternator/fans and I could not duplicate the voltage problem. Used a battery tester on the in vehicle test on a midtronics battery tester, battery/starting/charging all passed. Removed the trim below steering colum exposing the in vehicle fuse box and started wiggling wires. Still unable to duplicate.

Anyone have had a similar problem? 2003 evolution 8, python alarm, Rockford fosgate 750w amp, apexi pen turbo timer, stewert Warner boost/egt/oil pressure gauges, radio relocation. Mods related to wiring.

 

Well, jacked the car up. Found an exposed wire to the condenser fan I believe. The one under the good instead of in the bumper. Seems like the wires were fought into the fan a while ago as the exposed sections are green. The affected wires were the power wire and 16ga wire, I cut off the damaged parts, used some 10ga and 14ga wires, solder and some good heat shrink. After you heat it up this sealant ozzes out of it and protects against water. Lol.

The damaged wires were only coated in green, area was as to be cleaned I believe. Not sure if it is the cause of the problem. Theoretically the area would cause excessive resistance to the wires as the fan is energized, but unsure if it would cause the issue I am intermittently experiencing. Time will tell.

 

Still experienced this while driving around. Got it home and I found a problem, not sure if if resolved the entire problem though.

Pulled out my trusty volt meter(fluke 87) and put it on the battery terminals. Car idling, ac fan on 3, radio playing. I can hear the radio shut off intermittently so I know it is happening while I am testing. Voltage is a little low at 12.8v. Time to do a voltage drop test. Left the negative test lead on the battery negative, moved the positive lead to various parts around the engine bay. Engine running I can see 0.8v between any ground spot and the battery terminal. Used the min/max feature and while experiencing the radio turning off, the voltage got as high as 1.8v.

I had a length of 10ga wire from the last owners power to amplifier wire and made my own grounding kit. From the grounding bolt between the drivers headlight housing and fuse box, from that location to the next grounding spot behind the fuse box next to the battery, from that location to the 14mm bolt on the head where the battery ground wire bolts on the engine. Also made another wire from the center bolt on the engine mount next to the timing belt, to the ac bracket on the passenger strut tower. Retested voltage drop on ground side, most I see now is 0.3.

Will see if this eliminates the intermittent electrical issue I have.

Edit: seems the ground battery terminal is a Walmart/autostore special complete with wire. Not the oem wire, replaced from last owner.

 

Voltage persists to fluctuate but radio now does not turn off while driving. Started to remove the wires to solder the ring terminals, got to the battery ground cable on the head, I find out that that bolt hole is now stripped. Looked really good with a flashlight, this bolt that was used as a battery ground is in fact, the far bolt for the intake manifold to head.

Looking for advice, remove head, send to machine shop to drill and install a threaded insert, or remove intake manifold and learn how to do this myself. Lookig for factory specs on this bolt. Size and thread pitch. Seems to be able to tighten enough, want to remove the bolt, install threaded insert and use a stud and nut combo.

 

Sounds like my problem when I had my alternator going out on my 98 Eclipse. Start the car, disconnect the battery with all electronics off, and do some load tests. Turn on your headlights and radio while the car is running off the alternator and see if it dies.

Edit: Or did you already find the problem lol

 

Moved battery ground from the location the last owner had it to the driver strut tower on the outter most strut nut for the time being. Need to tap and install threaded insert to repair damaged threads to intake manifold bolt. Lower level furthest towards the transmission. Asking for bolt size and thread pitch of factory bolt. Not sure if the one in there is oem specs. My dsm has a stud and nut in that location.