minimarine09

iTrader: (18)

ok so i was riving quite spiritually one day, couple launches, next thing i know i stopped to talk to a friend i saw, and then i couldnt get in gear at all, like NO gear at all while the car is running, if goes into gear fine when the motor is off perfect , so i try to start the car in gear with the clutch pressed in, and it lunges forward. BINGO clutch is not disengaging, the TOB should be good because the pedal goes in and out just fine. so i automatically figured a bunch of air was in the system-

so i bleed the brakes, they pump up pressure good, then i turn the scre, no air in the tube, close up the bleed screw adn BOOM clutch is stuck on the floor, have to force it back up in order to continue to bleed, its the clutch master cyl right? no leaks, the slave does its job, and the tob is not popped off... just making sure i didnt miss anything here thanks!!!

TeachersEvo

iTrader: (4)

If the slave is doing it's job, i.e. you have appropriate measured movement at the TOB pivot arm to slave, that means it is most definitely not the master. Master transfers fluid force to slave, slave is the piston that does the action on the clutch itself.

So if I'm understanding you correctly / remembering the hydraulic system correctly, and the slave was or is moving, it is probably something internal with the clutch / TOB and not the master. I assume you have looked in the inspection hole?

It sounds a bit as if it isn't being bled correctly. What is the procedure you are using to bleed the clutch line?

rcheung

iTrader: (15)

The clutch is suppose to stay to the floor after you close the bleed screw, you have to lift if back up and continue the bleeding procedure until the clutch is springy again. Is the clutch staying on the floor after you've closed the bleed screw and lifted the pedal back up?

minimarine09

iTrader: (18)

I don't understand the question, it will bleed good. But the pedal should come back up on its own after the bleed screw is closed and its not, I have to manually being the pedal up in order to start building up pressure for the next bleed cycle. The clutch is still engaged... I'm still leaning toward the matter cylinder. The slave is doing its job. Piston is going in and out to push the clutch fork I just don't know of is enough"push"to actually disengage the clutch. The pedal on the floor just points me to the master cylinder,, ialso pulled the boot of the slave is is bone dry so it's not leaking from that seal

minimarine09

iTrader: (18)

I looked in the inspection hole tob is not popped out. If it was I would have no clutch pedal at all. The clutch is new (about 2k miles) comp clutch stg 3... the slave is doing is job. Just don't know of is enough movement to actually disengage the clutch plate but it's doing is job. During bleeding, after it bleeds and the screw is shut, the pedal stays on the floor untilwe manually pull it up and start the pumping again. The clutch pedal is directly connected to the matter cylinder...

rcheung

iTrader: (15)

The clutch is not like the brake pedal. If you open the bleed screw and push the cluth down it will stay on the floor even after you've tightened the bleed screw. You have to bring it back up by hand. My questions is after you bring up the clutch pedal by hand does the clutch pedal feel ok then?

minimarine09

iTrader: (18)

oh ok u understand now, i didnt know that, and yes it was normal again after manually bringing it back up

minimarine09

iTrader: (18)

o dont think its the TOB because i wouldnt have have a normal pedal function, it would be on the ground right? i have troubleshot down and figured out the clutch disc is not disengaging, i try to start the car in gear with the clutch floored and it wants to jump forward,

no leaks,

slave cylinder pushes the fork when pedal is pressed, i just dont know how much but it does a good bit.

TOB seems fully into the pressure plate and i can see the pressure plate teeth being pulled by the TOB when clutch pedal is pressed

MRolla

iTrader: (34)

sound like th your clutch is done my twin disk did the same thing changed the clutch master and it didnt help. But you can try it its only around $100 for a clutch master cylinder.

evo9gsrmike

Mine act clutch did that, I had to replace it , I thought it was my cmc too and bought a new one with no success I would bleed the system and nothing, I took my car to roadrace and got my clutch flywheel and a few other parts and dyno time done, prepare to invest on a new clutch

minimarine09

iTrader: (18)

this clutch and flywheel is damn near brand new less than 3k miles on them! comp clutch stg 3 abd their light weight flywheel, it seems as if they are like welded together now, my clutch fork wont go all the way to the right (towards the block), it stops half way, do you think comp clutch would take care of this for me if they are indeed done, seriously less than 3000 miles... im planning on selling the evo but now i have to fix this 1st... not cool...

lostsoulsevo

iTrader: (10)

sounds like the wave clip popped off

lostsoulsevo

iTrader: (10)

especially reading that you did a couple launches, hard disengages on he clutch can cause the wave clip to pop off

minimarine09

iTrader: (18)

its there, i can see it around the tob through the inspection hole, i literally took the slave cyl off, and the fork is stuck half way, its not traveled all the way to the right, its in the middle, as if the disk is stuck to the flywheel

lostsoulsevo

iTrader: (10)

I don't know then, but i'm sure the master/slave cylinder are fine. A blown out slave cylinder would cause you to constantly pump your clutch for pressure and the opposite for the master cylinder if it failed. I believe its a mechanical failure with either the pressure plate/tob/wave clip. And you have confirmed the wave clip is intact with tob. Only thing left to check is the pressure plate.