Stuck on what to do next
Stuck on what to do next
So unfortunately I have the sickness that most of you have and want more power and always wanting something new for my car. I just switched to e85 but I'm still wanting more. I'm on the stock turbo running 28psi and stock block with 73k miles on it.. So I need an opinion on what I should do next. New turbo setup or 2.3 from buschur with stock turbo for now... I'm leaning towards the 2.3 because I don't want to put a new turbo on and have it pop. What do y'all think
I wouldn't say 28 psi is is the stock turbo efficiency, the evo ix that is. I'm running 27psi safely on my e85 tune.
As of for the next step, what is your power goal. I would do the 2.3L since you'd build the engine and you'd be safe on internals for more power down the road.
As of for the next step, what is your power goal. I would do the 2.3L since you'd build the engine and you'd be safe on internals for more power down the road.
Being at 28 psi on e85, assuming you have basic boltons minus cams your probably around 360-380 whp. Cams wouldn't out you that much higher, maybe 15-20hp. A bigger turbo would get you to 500hp but def need to build the engine, bottom end and valve train.
How are you getting such a low number for cams? There are multiple dyno tests on here showing btwn 40-60hp gains with a good set of cams
Dude fp green or ef2/ef2.5 and leave the stock mivec cams and keep it on e85 and you can push it to 425/400 (mustang dyno) we have guys running 430whp/400+whp all over here in MN with no blown motors. It all depends on how you treat your car too.
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You guys changing your stock mivec cams for a few ponies are insane. The stock mivecs are very aggressive for factory. I've seen multiple cars pushing over 380+whp/400+tq (mustang dyno) on stock 9 turbos and stock mivec cams with e85
I was told when I bought the car it has different cams but the exhaust doesn't really sound like it, obviously If I got in there and checked I could figure out what I have but I'll wait because the car runs great and is making good power without me knowing with that being said my mod List is
E85
1120cc injectors
Wally
Short route inner cooler pipe ( custom to keep full size battery)
Tbe
Mbc
25psi wga
I think that is it so not completely molested but definitely not untouched I don't have actual dyno numbers yet because my tuner just bought one and is waiting to pick it up he did a virtual dyno on the Car when he was tuning it and it put down like 400hp and 360tq but I don't really care so much on dyno numbers because they can be messed with so much I trapped 116 in the 1/4 but I have only made one run. As for future power I would like low 11's high 10's in the 1/4
E85
1120cc injectors
Wally
Short route inner cooler pipe ( custom to keep full size battery)
Tbe
Mbc
25psi wga
I think that is it so not completely molested but definitely not untouched I don't have actual dyno numbers yet because my tuner just bought one and is waiting to pick it up he did a virtual dyno on the Car when he was tuning it and it put down like 400hp and 360tq but I don't really care so much on dyno numbers because they can be messed with so much I trapped 116 in the 1/4 but I have only made one run. As for future power I would like low 11's high 10's in the 1/4
I ran 502whp with a 5857 on stock block daily for 9 months no issues what so ever. It also saw 587whp on 100 octane about every other weekend. The stock block can handle a lot, just keep the low end torque down. As long as you have a good tuner you will be fine.
how much torque were you running?
Those numbers listed are pretty mild at 400/360, virtual dyno reads like a dynojet so its about 11% higher reading than a mustang dyno. So do the math on what I posted above. 480/420 on the virtual dyno is nothing crazy even. As long as the virtual dyno is loaded lightly, you can change the settings to make it read low I guess too. Keeping big tq numbers out of the 3-4k rpm range is key on these stock blocks. Especially on the smaller, quick spooling stock frame turbos.
My biggest thing when modding my car was just take your time, dont go all out right away or you'll lose the passion and maybe even feel like the car is complete then want to move on from the platfrom....and why? Its so awesome
A competent tuner is also vastly important so do your research and dont just pick the first one you hear about.
My biggest thing when modding my car was just take your time, dont go all out right away or you'll lose the passion and maybe even feel like the car is complete then want to move on from the platfrom....and why? Its so awesome
A competent tuner is also vastly important so do your research and dont just pick the first one you hear about.
Those numbers listed are pretty mild at 400/360, virtual dyno reads like a dynojet so its about 11% higher reading than a mustang dyno. So do the math on what I posted above. 480/420 on the virtual dyno is nothing crazy even. As long as the virtual dyno is loaded lightly, you can change the settings to make it read low I guess too. Keeping big tq numbers out of the 3-4k rpm range is key on these stock blocks. Especially on the smaller, quick spooling stock frame turbos. My biggest thing when modding my car was just take your time, dont go all out right away or you'll lose the passion and maybe even feel like the car is complete then want to move on from the platfrom....and why? Its so awesome
A competent tuner is also vastly important so do your research and dont just pick the first one you hear about.
A competent tuner is also vastly important so do your research and dont just pick the first one you hear about.But personally I don't want to risk blowing my engine when throwing on a bigger turbo, with these cars don't take risks cause it'll cost you big bucks for a rebuild. Just do it right the first time. If your doing a larger turbo just build the bottom end, at least do head studs. Def don't go cheap, if your gonna track the car build it accordingly. Don't push your luck.
Btw With stock turbo and stock ix cams I'm making 392awhp on e85.





