Thanks

 

Yup np

 

Update: I removed the mivec solenoid and tested it. I heard and saw it move when I gave it power. Ohms were in spec. So the solenoid is good. I pulled the banjo bolt to the left of IM and pulled the filter it was clean and I ran air through it before reinstalling it. There was oil in there. So I think that means my check valve isn't stuck closed? I can't pull the lower banjo under the intake manifold without pulling off the intake manifold correct? It appears that my oil line isn't leaking from what ago can see. I don't know what to do next. Still have a clanking mivec cam gear so I'm not getting enough oil pressure there and I still have the code. I'm thinking of pulling the valve cover and intake cam and blowing out the mivec oil passages. Any suggestions?

 

You should be able to take the other banjo bot out without removing intake manifold but u will probably have to remove upper pipe. And you check valve is that banjo bolt so should be a quick check on if that is working. Other than that I would just verify that your cam gears didn't jump a tooth since that's an easy check before you take off the valve cover then try clearing the passages. No use in pulling vc if you don't have to but if time is dead on that may be all that's left.

 

Once I get to check all of this out, if all is good, is my last option to try replacing the mivec cam gear?

 

You can try the cap bolt and gasket first but other than the tune which I doubt it is I think that is all that's left unless your cam position sensors aren't reading it right and that's the issue. If you get to just throwing parts at it I would go with cheapest first and cam position sensors are a lot cheaper than the cam gear haha

 

Which gasket? There's a used good mivec gear with 40k for sale on the forums for $150. Might have to grab that if it comes down to it.

 

There's a little o-ring type gasket behind the Allen head cap bolt on the cam gear. If you go to stm they have most the oem stuff on there and they will order anything they don't have on there. That's who I have to go through since there's no mitsubishi dealer up her anymore

 

Ok thanks. Also ever since I took that apart the noise has gotten worse and it seems like the cam has stopped advancing or locked as a failsafe? I know I put it back together right it can only go in one way. So I think when I took it apart and the oil drained out it hasn't gotten more oil so it's the check valve. I will update once I get in there again. Any suggestions as to what might have happened are appreciated.

 

Are you able to cycle the center section of the check valve? And when you put the banjo bolt and the fitting that had the filter in it did you put them on together and just turn the banjo or did you put the hex fitting on then hold that while you screwed the banjo fitting on. And just a question what's your oil pressure looking like lately can't remember if you had mentioned that before.

 

My engine just siezed I think. Don't have an oil pressure gauge but my light was never on. When a hot out if the car I had oil coming out of the oil filter and my timing belt was off of the cam gears. Exhaust manifold was glowing. Car wasn't misfiring previously. When I put the banjo back on I put the fitting in with the filter in it and then screwed the banjo into it. Not sure what happened but now I'm f###ed.

 

Yeah that's no good if timing belt popped of while you were running you probably bent a few valves and may have trashed your pistons. Sorry to hear that, good luck getting her running again.

 

Keep us updated man. Good luck

 

Update: After pulling VC I noticed my intake cam is snapped right where mivec cam attaches to it. Which is of course how the timing belt fell off. Do you guys think it's because not enough oil was reaching the mivec gear? Of course I've got bigger problems. I must have at least bent some valves but I haven't taken the head off yet. How do I get the motor back to TDC with the belt already off?

 

If you don't have anything jammed in the engine you should just be able to rotate the cams and crank with a wrench till the timing marks line up.