Didnt see where you check fuses-- like the one for the coils. Also have a look at the fuel pump relay and the fusible link to be sure they are in good shape.

 

i didnt see it mentioned, make sure it has gas.

 

I swapped an evo from stock mapping to tehpra once ... I disabled the immobilizer and the car ran great... Then when i shut it off it wouldnt start back up... I had to reflash it to get it to fire again... Eventually i figured it out that the immobilizer wasn't staying off and would keep the car from starting...

I'm to lazy to read all this so forgive me if i skipped it being mentioned

 

Also battery is brand new

 

meckert - All fuses check out okay. Still working on fusible links. Fuel isn't my issue. I'm getting fuel spitting out of the return hose, and I see fuel coming out of the first injector o-ring thanks to a leak (need to replace the o-ring)

Biggiesacks- Has about 1/2 tank. (6 month old fuel mixed with seafoam and I put in 3 gallons of new 93)

joseph143- I disabled the immobilizer already (f91 periphery, correct?)
Initially it hard starting issues I would mess around with the terminal connections and then it would start. When it wouldn't start it'd flash the green car with a key symbol on the dash. I'm assuming thats the immobilizer code. Since I disabled it, that symbol hasn't came up. I'll try resending the flash over to see if it makes any difference.

 

Checked/tested the ground wires to both cam sensors, both ignition coil grounds (already tested for 12v, & 5v before) and the other ground wire (near the exhaust cam sensor) that I found to be in 1/2 and they tested out just fine.

 

Checked/tested the ground wires to both cam sensors, both ignition coil grounds (already tested for 12v, & 5v before) and the other ground wire (near the exhaust cam sensor) that I found to be in 1/2 and they tested out just fine.

 

Checked the CAS harness (ignition in "on" position) and I had a solid ground connection and both 12v/5v readings as well. I'm guessing the CAS just went on me coincedentially.
I didn't pull the wiring harness to check for shorts but isn't that pretty much ruled out because of testing with the ohm meter now? I mean I shouldn't assume but I don't want go waste time either. I'm just going to order a new CAS and take care of timing while I'm at it.

 

Okay so I found the problem, my balance shaft belt disintegrated, bent my CAS trigger, and severed the bottom of my CAS.

I noticed that the countershaft balance sprocket rotates but it doesn't spin too freely. Should I be worried that a bearing is toasted? That might be why my belt tore, but at the same time all the previous owners never changed timing components and there's 116k on the car.