I was in an accident and hit a highway wall head on going anywhere from 55-65mph back in July. The car sat for about 4-5 months before I was able to find a donor shell. Long story short, the collision shop brought her back.

I got around to doing all the engine work to get her running afterwards. I made sure to do an oil & filter change + added a couple gallons of new fuel with seafoam to the fuel that was sitting for 6 months or so.

She started right up with the first crank.. had a whinning sound (think it came from the new serpentine belt) but it went away after about 10 or so mins. I was logging on EvoScan and everything checked out okay. No knock, and timing varied from 6-10 degrees. (I have the logs)

I did three 10-15 minute idle sessions and everything checked out just fine. I revved her up to about 2-3k once she got to operating temp and again no knock.

After the third idle session, I bolted up the oil cooler and dropped her off the jackstands, started her up and she died about 3-5 seconds after and wouldnt start again. She'd crank for days but wouldnt turn over.


Initially I had a starting issue, and that was due to my key immobilizer I believe because the firefighter ripped the key out of the ignition and separated the actual key from the rubber transponder but when she turned over she started just fine and when she didnt the green car with the key light came up on the dash.

I ended up disabling the immobilizer in EcuFlash in the F9A periphery and was hoping that was my issue but that was a no go. I noticed a ground by the exhaust cam sensor (to the left of the upper rad hose bolted on the block) was cut in 1/2 somehow. I soldered the connection and tried to start but that was a no go as well. I'm getting the correct voltage to the coils, and im getting 12v, 5v, and the ground checks out okay on both cam sensor harnesses. I pulled the return fuel hose off and it spit fuel as I was cranking as well. I'm fairly certain that I'm not getting any spark.. atleast I didnt get an ark when I took the plug out and set it near the intake manifold/head.

I'm assuming because she started and then died it doesn't have anything to do with the ignition switch. I shouldn't assume though. I've read almost every thread that pertains to similar situations, and they are almost all left unresolved.

I'm guessing that it was a coincidence that either the Intake Cam or Exhaust Cam sensor went on me or it's the CAS. It could very well be the MFI relay or maybe something with the injectors. I noticed a few grounds were disconnected from the car was well but it started without them and didnt change once I connected them.

Is there any way to test both cam sensors themselves or is it just something I have to replace and try to start the car?

I did have to stretch the terminal connectors a bit because I had the wrong battery (was bought as a gift) but it wasnt too bad. Replaced with correct battery.

Where would you guys go from here?

 

Ok. A couple of potentially helpful points.

1. The first thing I would do is check the sensors with a voltmeter. I'm not someplace where I have the manual, and frankly... too lazy to DL it, and search, but there should be an ohm rating for those sensors.

2. Last year, my engine harness melted when I drove my car with the ground from the intake manifold to the firewall arcing. The first place it shorted was that little ground wire for the cam sensor. It arced onto the heat shield (aftermarket). The only reason I noticed before everything torched was that my coolant temp spiked (grounded the sensor out) and I pulled over to check it out. The harness melted VERY far back, and of course... more revs produce more current.

So I'd maybe suggest checking that all out? If you missed a ground, and everything was fine at idle... the wiring could've easily gotten warm, and perhaps the immobilizer light was just one of the electrical casualties. Once the revving began, and current started really flowing, things could've gotten out of whack REAL quick.

 

I was in an accident and hit a highway wall head on going anywhere from 55-65mph back in July. The car sat for about 4-5 months before I was able to find a donor shell. Long story short, the collision shop brought her back.

I got around to doing all the engine work to get her running afterwards. I made sure to do an oil & filter change + added a couple gallons of new fuel with seafoam to the fuel that was sitting for 6 months or so.

She started right up with the first crank.. had a whinning sound (think it came from the new serpentine belt) but it went away after about 10 or so mins. I was logging on EvoScan and everything checked out okay. No knock, and timing varied from 6-10 degrees. (I have the logs)

I did three 10-15 minute idle sessions and everything checked out just fine. I revved her up to about 2-3k once she got to operating temp and again no knock.

After the third idle session, I bolted up the oil cooler and dropped her off the jackstands, started her up and she died about 3-5 seconds after and wouldnt start again. She'd crank for days but wouldnt turn over.


Initially I had a starting issue, and that was due to my key immobilizer I believe because the firefighter ripped the key out of the ignition and separated the actual key from the rubber transponder but when she turned over she started just fine and when she didnt the green car with the key light came up on the dash.

I ended up disabling the immobilizer in EcuFlash in the F9A periphery and was hoping that was my issue but that was a no go. I noticed a ground by the exhaust cam sensor (to the left of the upper rad hose bolted on the block) was cut in 1/2 somehow. I soldered the connection and tried to start but that was a no go as well. I'm getting the correct voltage to the coils, and im getting 12v, 5v, and the ground checks out okay on both cam sensor harnesses. I pulled the return fuel hose off and it spit fuel as I was cranking as well. I'm fairly certain that I'm not getting any spark.. atleast I didnt get an ark when I took the plug out and set it near the intake manifold/head.

I'm assuming because she started and then died it doesn't have anything to do with the ignition switch. I shouldn't assume though. I've read almost every thread that pertains to similar situations, and they are almost all left unresolved.

I'm guessing that it was a coincidence that either the Intake Cam or Exhaust Cam sensor went on me or it's the CAS. It could very well be the MFI relay or maybe something with the injectors. I noticed a few grounds were disconnected from the car was well but it started without them and didnt change once I connected them.

Is there any way to test both cam sensors themselves or is it just something I have to replace and try to start the car?

I did have to stretch the terminal connectors a bit because I had the wrong battery (was bought as a gift) but it wasnt too bad. Replaced with correct battery.


Where would you guys go from here?

 

ProPilot04

1. I have the service manual that can be downloaded on EvoScan and I can't find the values on the cam sensors. I found how to replace them but it doesnt say how to test them.

2. Funny you should mention those grounds, I believe the collision shop pulled the engine to weld on the frame rails and didn't put anything back together. That ground wire that attaches to the front strut mount crossmember-brace/firewall was disconnected while it was running. So I'll check in that area. I most likely will end up pulling the plastic wire shields near that little cam sensor ground. Well I don't think its the ground that goes into the exhaust cam sensor harness itself but rather the ground that runs in the same plastic wire shield and connects on the head (pretty sure we are still talking about the same ground). However, that wire was grounded properly unlike the one on the firewall/strut. Either way I'll end up pulling that shield and checking for any shorts too because my buddies evo fried/melted nearly every single wire that ran in there.

I did notice that my coolant temp gauge was way the hell overheating on the dash but EvoScan had me at 210 ish. So I went to replace the ECT Sensor (wrong sensor, I know) and I cracked the plastic sensor connector and coolant ended up steaming out and dripped down. I didnt see any damage when I replaced it with another one though but I still have to replace the coolant temp gauge sensor.


Also I'd like to mention ALL interior/exterior fuses checked out just fine and I don't hear the fuel pump prime when the key is in the "on" position but then I read Evo's don't prime like 2g dsm's. Either way I can get the fuel pump to kick on with the actuator in EcuFlash. It's a walbro 255 replaced last year.

 

I would almost assure you that it's electrical associated with your wiring harness.

We're definitely talking about the same wire. That wire on my car was properly grounded as well, electricity doesn't care, it takes the path of least resistance. When the firewall ground was disco'd, I'm betting it flowed through that extremely small (maybe 16 gauge?) wire, and heated it up. That wire itself never failed on me, but it melted all of the sheathing of plenty of wires touching it in the loom. I had to cut the loom open VERY far back (at least to the fusible plugs) to begin seeing healthy wire.

Since it was just melting wires, there aren't really any definitive characteristics of what could be not working, because it depends on which wires got their sheathing melted, and touched each other. So you're gonna need to probably do some splice and dice.

Things I'll suggest.

1. Disconnect the battery, completely, IMMEDIATELY. Coincidentally enough, my Volvo (due to age, it's an 87) 240 had a ground wire ON THE ALTERNATOR disintegrate, and I ran out to get some groceries. Car ran fine, no issues at all. Get home, and park it, roll out the grill to cook up some steaks, and I get a phone call. I'm inside while the grill is heating up, and I go back outside and I'm like "wow... there's WAY more smoke than I expected?" Then I notice it all coming from my Volvo (which isn't actually abnormal), but then I see the flames pouring out from under the car in the engine bay. So I blitz around and grab the fire extinguisher from inside the house, pop the hood (which I know you shouldn't do) knock it back with the fire extinguisher, pop it into neutral and push it down the driveway into the street (thank god no cars were coming) grab the other firex out of the trunk, and whack it down again getting all but the ignitor flame, and pull the battery. Once the battery was disco'd, the fire was out and I doused it all good with my 3rd extinguisher. All of this happened with the keys NOT in the car. You melt the right wires, and you get a closed circuit, and boom.

2. On my Evo, I was lucky enough that it never got that bad (no idea how), but I chose not to solder the wires in the harness, I used butt connectors (the proper good ones) and extra heat sheathing. (Did that on the Volvo too actually). Simply because the solder is susceptible to cracking from vibrations.

And that's the story about how I lit two cars on fire in one summer. lol.

 

PS: I'll see if I can get some pics up from the Evo... if you're in urgent need, feel free to PM me your digits, and I'll text them on over.

 

Did it sputter just before it shut off or go off quickly? Could be lots of thing considering your story. Things I would check.
1. Gas in the tank
2. Clogged fuel filter/sock
3. All electrical connections associated with the ignition system.
4. Cam sensor.

Good luck!

 

Honestly, I can't really remember how it died. It happened rather quickly and took me by surprise. It may have sputtered like once but it definitely just died. It didn't sound like engine damage. I'm almost certain it didn't sputter it's way to dying. Maybe like once or twice then she was done.

1. I had just about a 1/4 tank of 6 ish month old summer 93 in the tank and then I added Seafoam when she was running initially. After she died I added about 3 ish gallons of fresh winter 92/93 in and bumped it up to just about 1/2 tank.

Regarding fuel, I can prime the pump using the actuator in evoscan, does this rule out relays/etc? I don't hear the pump with the key in the "on" position but I keep reading 50/50 that it does/doesnt. Also with the return fuel line off it spat out fuel when cranking and I believe I see fresh fuel bc I just noticed an injector o-ring leak. Nothing serious but will get replaced.

2. To check if it's clogged I just pull the rear seat correct? Similar to a DSM? (I'll just do a quick search)

3. My steering wheel column was ripped apart because when the airbag went off it basically made the steering wheel flop around bc it broke whatever holds it into place (literally could move the steering wheel to the left/right/in/out/ up/down, etc)

Minus the headlight connector and turn signal connectors everything else was in place. I tried pushing the sensor to the ignition switch (i think, sensor on the left side of the steering wheel) in to ensure it was connected and that didn't change anything. But now come to think of it awhile back 1/2 my dash stopped illuminating and then I hit a railroad track and it came back on so definitely was a short somewhere. The dash appeared to illuminate just fine though. Not that I'm ruling it out.

Today I picked up the car from the shop (had to replace that ACD hardline) and noticed my key fob didnt work anymore, and the lights were barely on. I cam across a split wire that I didnt see before and when I went to move it there was an arc on the core support. So if I'm super lucky I'm hoping that when I dropped it from the jacks I caused it to move and short out something in the ignition system. Also another theory I have is that the few times I revved it that I sent more load causing an arc to run thru a disconnected ground because I am fairly certain that ground near the exhaust cam wasn't broken when she was running and I don't know how else that would've happened.

I'm going to get a charge on that battery and solder the broken wire and attempt to start her. If she doesn't start then I'll check the fuel filter, and pull the plastic wire shielding off a couple parts of the wiring harness.


My luck sucks, and I wish electrical wasn't a pain in the A@* to troubleshoot/diagnose or I just never get the easy electrical issues.

 

It isn't the cut wire. I soldered it today and still a no go. I replaced the exhaust cam sensor as well and no luck. I'm waiting for the intake cam sensor to come in. If that's not it then I'll go ahead and rip apart the wiring harness to check for fried wires and then move onto the CAS. I'm about 4k away from a timing belt job so I might as well get that taken care of as well.

 

It isn't the cut wire. I soldered it today and still a no-go. I replaced the exhaust cam sensor as well and no luck. I'm waiting for the intake cam sensor to come in. If that's not it then I'll go ahead and rip apart the wiring harness to check for fried wires and then move onto the CAS. I'm about 4k away from a timing belt job so I might as well get that taken care of as well.

 

Common issues to check,
Timing belt?
Fuel?
Spark?(ignition and spark strength)
Fuses?
Wiring, positive from battery, ground, connectors etc.
Ecu harness?
Relays?
MAF or Map sensors?
Imobilizers and on and on

 

Battery condition!

 

I would try an alternative fuel source. Spray some carb cleaner into the throttle body and see if it will start. If it does than you can focus on a fuel issue. When reading your testing on the coils and cam sensors you have 5V reference at the sensors?

Do you have a power probe or are you using a multimeter to check voltages?

 

@Dalewantsevo!
Common issues to check,
Timing belt? *Still need to check (shop said it was fine) but I'll check myself*
Fuel? *(i'll try carb cleaner in the TB to check)*
Spark?(ignition and spark strength) No spark to coils -Ohm meter give proper readings*
Fuses? *Inside and engine bay fuses check good*
Wiring, positive from battery, ground, connectors etc. *Will start to rip the harness apart*
Ecu harness? *Still need to check*
Relays? *Haven't checked* I can use the fuel pump actuator in evoscan if that says anything
MAF or Map sensors? *Tried starting it with MAF unplugged -No difference(
Imobilizers and on and on * Disabled immoblizer*

Also replaced positive terminal post since it was in bad condition -no go-


@IneeDsEvo

I'll try carb cleaner to rule out fuel. I'm almost certain it's just isolated to no spark. I'm using a multimeter. I get both 12v and 5v on the ingition coil harness and both cam sensor harnesses. I'll check the grounds on both of those, and rule that out as well.


Replaced both intake and exhaust cam sensors. Still a no go. If it's not a fried wire then I'm going to assume that it's the CAS.

 

Replaced both intake and exhaust cam sensors. Still a no go. If it's not a fried wire then I'm going to assume that it's the CAS.