Hello..

So I installed these mods below on my car and it took about a week... Car was actually running fine after the install. THEN.. I got the car TUNED. And ever since then I have started to regret putting all this stuff in my car because it has been a nightmare for me.

I switched over to e85. got the car tuned and ever since the car shuts off while im driving at every 1 out of 3 stops. Then if I let the car sit for more then 2 hours or so and try to start it it will NOT start unless I jump it..

I thought I had a bad battery so I bought a new Optima Red Top... Put it in car fired right up.. next day didnt start the car, the day after I tried firing it up right now and car just clicks.. Will not start up AGAIN. WTF

When I installed the optima red top I also disconnected the Positive Terminal from the battery to make sure it wasn't my alternator and car still stayed on, I have had it tested at Auto zone and O reillys and they are saying it is fine..

Can someone please help me on what to do next??? Or what you might recommend??

Perrin Intake System
Buschur Ported Intake Manifold
Buschur Ported Throttle Body
Buschur Ported Exhaust Manifold
GSC S2 Cams
GSC Beehive Springs and Retainers
ARP Head Studs
o2 Housing No name
Megan Test Pipe
Tanabe Cat Back
Stock Down Pipe (Will change on next tune)
Stock Intercooler (Will change too ets 3.5 next tune also)
Muse Complete Intercooler piping kit
1120 FIC Injectors
Walbro 400lph Fuel Pump
Samco Radiator Hoses
Hallman Pro Boost Controller
Stage 2 Competition Clutch (I believe this was what I put in 20k miles car gas 70k now.)
New Spark plugs
AMS Oil 10w-40

 

I bet you wired something to constant power instead of switched accessory power. It's draining your battery. Is the boost controller electronic? Is the fuel pump hot wired?

 

My boost controller IS Electric, my fuel pump I am not sure.. Just driving me crazy man. I have 2 cars and both started to **** up the same week.. now I have zero operating vehicles.

 

Come to think about it.. I did rewire my boost controller because it was only working with headlights, switched the wiring on it and it worked

 

Boost controller is probably drawing the power. Needs to be on an ignition circuit. That way power will die for it when car is off. Use a test light or meter and start probing in your fuse box for a good contributor for power donation. Make sure to check and make sure the power supply is not constant. Start there and give the battery a slow 2 or 10 amp charge. Report back.

 

DOUBLE POST**** Not sure what happened.

 

Okay, So I just checked my wiring and it looks like my "daisy chain power wire" was plugged in directly where the main Power wire was suppose to be plugged in at.. and the main POWER wire was plugged in where the daisy chain wire goes. So they were plugged in incorrectly. not sure if this will make a difference. But I have a feeling it will!

As for electrical meter or battery charger I dont have either.. Just ordered an electrical meter off amazon should be here saturday.. I don't ever work on my car because I hardly know anything about cars. But times like this makes me wish I did because honestly feel very stupid.

http://prosportgauges.com/52mmPremiu...ak%20boost.pdf

 

Just want to say, out of ALL the things that could have been a reason why my car does not start. Fuses, starter, battery, cables, etc. You literally hit it off perfectly. My car turns on fine now and is exactly what was explained by you and the other member. Thank you guys.

Just adding this post incase anyone else has trouble like I did and finds this thread in the future through google, this worked for me!

THANKS AGAIN!

 

no problem man! Enjoy!