Hello,

My problems started about 3 weeks ago when on my way to work my car stuttered but kept going, then down the road a ways it shut down while driving. I started it back up and got to work where it died again and wouldn't start back up. After work I tried to get home and the car died again and left me stranded in the street. I got it towed home and started looking for the problem. I thought it may be the alternator so I changed that out, no change. So then I thought it may be the map sensor so I called omnipower and they said they were sending me a new one. After that I was on a trip so the car sat for a week while I waited for the map sensor to show up, when I got back I installed the new map sensor (yesterday) and now the car won't start at all. Before I left for my trip the car would atleast turn over, and run for a few seconds before dying but now it won't start at all.

I've got new spark plugs in it, checked for spark and I'm getting that, the battery is charged fully, I can also smell fuel when it tries to start so I believe that's fine too. I'm at a loss as to what to be looking for.. Nobody seems to be able to help me, I've been trying to research and some people who describe the same problems as me (the stuttering and dying while driving, plus no start) have thought it was the cam position sensor but I'm not sure how to test that.

If anyone has any ideas on what this may be please let me know. This is my daily and I really need to get it running.

My setup:
Stock turbo
stock fuel
speed density with ets intake
4 bar map sensor
3" catless exhaust
02 dump
aem wideband
Intercooler piping
Oddysey half size battery

 

maybe fuel pump or FPR?

 

Def sounds like a fuel delivery issue..

 

I pulled my IAT sensor and it is wrecked... completely rusted and the tip was all white and filthy.. I'm getting a new one sent in, so I'll throw it in when it gets here Saturday and go from there. Thanks guys!

 

Don't get your hopes up, the car will run without the IAT sensor.

 

I am pretty sure I replied to another thread, but you should definitely get that MAP sensor replaced. I had similar issues and my Omni 4bar ended up being bad. Apparently they can sometimes clog up from blow-by and end up not working.
I chased a "fuel issue" for a while, because that is what it seemed was the cause, pulled injectors, messed with the fuel pump 10 times, ended up replacing the pump, etc. A new Omni 4bar fixed it.

 

did your car shut down while you were slowing down, coming to a stop or just while driving?
IF yes (slowing down or coming to stop) I believe it's your IAC is bad! You got fuel and spark if the idle air control is bad there's no way for your engine to regulate the amount air. hope that help

 

I have a brand new map sensor that I got from Omnipower, after installing that is when my car wouldn't start anymore. I didn't test to see if it would start after letting it sit for the two weeks before putting this new map sensor in, is it possible that the one they sent me is bad too? Is there any way to test to be sure it's working properly?

 

If I remember right it would die while just cruising, then while it was dying I tried to give it gas but it didn't help and just died. I know that there were two times after I had replaced the alternator I was test driving it (before the car sat for two weeks) and as I was turning around I would put the car in reverse and as I went into first it seemed to want to die. I can't be sure of when it was dying because I was very frustrated when test driving the car after replacing the alternator. I'm going to throw the new Idle air temp sensor in tomorrow when it gets here, then if it doesn't start I'll start checking the IAC.

Thank you for the suggestion!

 

Ok, so it seems to be related to the map sensor somehow. Is the wiring and connector good? No vacuum leaks around it? I would contact Omnipower and see if they have anything to tell you about the sensor and ways to check it.

 

Yeah all the wiring off of it is good, and it's seating well, no vacuum leaks that I can see.

 

I just pulled the IAC and I tested the Ohms and it read 31 or so I believe for every 2 sensor testing points, also tested the harness connection point and it read 12V so it's getting power fine. But I did take video of it connected to the harness with the ignition being turned on and off, and it only seems to move a VERY tiny amount. Could it still be bad even though it tests good??? I'll have a video up shortly.

 

Here's the video I just took of it

 

If the car was warm when doing the test then the ISC steps in the IAC motor will be small. If you do it when it's cold and it only moves a small amount like the video then it's bad.

 

ok, are you pretty positive it's bad based on this info? I just want to be sure before ordering anything else.. I've already replaced 4 parts its seems with no luck in fixing the issue, and these IAC's aren't cheap. There's a guy selling a throttle body with the IAC in it which I can get for $150, which is the cheapest I'm probably going to get an OEM one for, but I just want to be sure before spending ANY more money.