Help, Rich Idle More Vacuum
Help, Rich Idle More Vacuum
Hey guys,
I am currently having an issue with my car. First start will rev to 1500 and then die and then second start the car will stay on jumpy rpm but eventually stabilizes.
After a drive is where another issue begins. On idle I have about -16 to -18 vacuum normally and 15-16 afr but after some drive car starts to idle really rich around 12-13 afr and vacuum increases to -20 and doesnt move at all, rpm increases to 1500 and sometimes it comes down but the afr and vacuum dont change even when its at the right rpm.
I am on speed density
I am currently having an issue with my car. First start will rev to 1500 and then die and then second start the car will stay on jumpy rpm but eventually stabilizes.
After a drive is where another issue begins. On idle I have about -16 to -18 vacuum normally and 15-16 afr but after some drive car starts to idle really rich around 12-13 afr and vacuum increases to -20 and doesnt move at all, rpm increases to 1500 and sometimes it comes down but the afr and vacuum dont change even when its at the right rpm.
I am on speed density
You need to get the tune straightened out. The vacuum will settle down when the idle is set properly and the idle will set properly when the mixture is rt.. as you noticed too rich. Same with the starting issue. Get the mixture rt and it works. GL
Just got a power steering code, could that cause all of this?
So the power steering code was fixed, car still goes rich after a long drive or 2nd startup, afr is 11.6-12.5 and vacuum fluctuates between 16-18 inhg, here and there the car would idle at 1500 , on first start up my afr and vacuum are 14-16 inhg , i dont think ita a tune issue because this happens as driving time progresses, I cant think of any other mechanical issue that would cause an increase of vacuum at the same rpm
I don't have an answer for you, but just wanted to let you know, all vehicles that get vacuum supply from the intake manifold (some get it through pumps nowadays) will see an increase in vacuum at higher rpms with no additional throttle inputs.
You can hold your foot on the throttle to create a 1500 rpm "idle" and see the vacuum level increase on any, properly tuned, vehicle. This only is true to a point. Run it to 3000 rpm and it may no longer be the case.
Just saying, don't read too much into the vacuum level just yet. If you had an intake leak/vacuum leak, it would go lower, right? I mean, what happened? Did your engine just suddenly seal up better than before? Not likely.
You may want to look in the direction of the injectors, or the tune.
Maybe even have a look at the ECT readings. If it is reading way cold, the engine will try to run rich to compensate. What is your MAP sensor reading at idle? Bad inputs result in bad outputs. If it's running rich and the ECU knows it, and can't reduce the fuel quantity, it will increase airflow next to attempt to achieve stoich (higher idle). Check your fuel pressure as well and fuel pressure regulator. Anything that may be causing a rich run condition.
You can hold your foot on the throttle to create a 1500 rpm "idle" and see the vacuum level increase on any, properly tuned, vehicle. This only is true to a point. Run it to 3000 rpm and it may no longer be the case.
Just saying, don't read too much into the vacuum level just yet. If you had an intake leak/vacuum leak, it would go lower, right? I mean, what happened? Did your engine just suddenly seal up better than before? Not likely.
You may want to look in the direction of the injectors, or the tune.
Maybe even have a look at the ECT readings. If it is reading way cold, the engine will try to run rich to compensate. What is your MAP sensor reading at idle? Bad inputs result in bad outputs. If it's running rich and the ECU knows it, and can't reduce the fuel quantity, it will increase airflow next to attempt to achieve stoich (higher idle). Check your fuel pressure as well and fuel pressure regulator. Anything that may be causing a rich run condition.
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I don't have an answer for you, but just wanted to let you know, all vehicles that get vacuum supply from the intake manifold (some get it through pumps nowadays) will see an increase in vacuum at higher rpms with no additional throttle inputs.
You can hold your foot on the throttle to create a 1500 rpm "idle" and see the vacuum level increase on any, properly tuned, vehicle. This only is true to a point. Run it to 3000 rpm and it may no longer be the case.
Just saying, don't read too much into the vacuum level just yet. If you had an intake leak/vacuum leak, it would go lower, right? I mean, what happened? Did your engine just suddenly seal up better than before? Not likely.
You may want to look in the direction of the injectors, or the tune.
Maybe even have a look at the ECT readings. If it is reading way cold, the engine will try to run rich to compensate. What is your MAP sensor reading at idle? Bad inputs result in bad outputs. If it's running rich and the ECU knows it, and can't reduce the fuel quantity, it will increase airflow next to attempt to achieve stoich (higher idle). Check your fuel pressure as well and fuel pressure regulator. Anything that may be causing a rich run condition.
You can hold your foot on the throttle to create a 1500 rpm "idle" and see the vacuum level increase on any, properly tuned, vehicle. This only is true to a point. Run it to 3000 rpm and it may no longer be the case.
Just saying, don't read too much into the vacuum level just yet. If you had an intake leak/vacuum leak, it would go lower, right? I mean, what happened? Did your engine just suddenly seal up better than before? Not likely.
You may want to look in the direction of the injectors, or the tune.
Maybe even have a look at the ECT readings. If it is reading way cold, the engine will try to run rich to compensate. What is your MAP sensor reading at idle? Bad inputs result in bad outputs. If it's running rich and the ECU knows it, and can't reduce the fuel quantity, it will increase airflow next to attempt to achieve stoich (higher idle). Check your fuel pressure as well and fuel pressure regulator. Anything that may be causing a rich run condition.
Even when the idle drops back to normal rpm wise , vacuum is still higher than it should for example at 1100 rpm I have -16-18 and when the car starts going rich and drops from 1500 back to normal the vacuum is -20
Last edited by NoJokeEvo; Sep 16, 2015 at 06:02 AM.
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