Not sure if you need to set the cam gear any different then stock 2.0. I know on the 2.3 you have to adjust the gear. Any help would be great, I currently have it set 2 degree advance from having the head resurface twice

 

There is no magic number of adjusting for decreased deck height, you need to measure it /degree the cam to find tdc.

 

Thanks for input. I just read an article on someone having there head resurfaced and came up with 2 degree for the loss of material. to me it made sense. Back to my original Q, does the cam gear need to be adjusted due to the long rod having a longer stroke

 

Your question is more of valve to piston tdc timing. There are a bunch of articles on degreeing a cam find one and read thru it and you will better understand. In general, No, a stroker wont change tdc on a 4cyl engine. You need to find exact tdc with the piston then set cams to tdc as well.
As for surfacing, you can't make a general statement on what to set cams to without knowing how much was taken off the head--for instance if you had .010 taken off twice on your head but the article you read had .07 take off once how many degrees is that?
I guess the next thought is does it matter? is close, close enough--that's for you to determine. GL

 

Thanks for your input, So your saying the cam does not need to be adjusted due to the stroke and the stroke does not affect the cam. Back to the cam adjustment due to lost material. I am just stating if you take material off (head or block) you will need to adjust your cam gears it will have to be advanced X amount degree. I am going with 2 degree. But, your right is it 2 or 4 you will truly not know unless you degree the cam. But, is 2 degree better the 0.

 

I'm at +4 Intake / Exhaust

94mm Crank
159mm Rods
GSC S2s

 

Because you wont be able to use the stock cam gears you have to use the adjustable gears and it doesnt come out the same when doing the timing especialy with a 2.4 block thats 10mm taller. Degree the cams while assembling the engine and save yourself the trouble later.

 

Did you have your head resurfaced? Or the block decked?
Thanks for the input dr_latino999

 

Thanks for input and if anyone reading this and is building a motor follow this advise. I unfortunately have the motor in the car and do not wish to pull it out just for a couple extra hp.

 

I remember reading somewhere about timing being off on stroker due to longer stroke. Just was not sure if it's in the tuning or cam timing.

 

The 4G64 block is 6 mm taller than the 4G63. That means the timing belt distance between the crank sprocket and cam sprocket will also be longer by approx 6 mm. In relation to the cam sprocket circumference, that translates to about 4 degrees on the adjustable cam gear.

Stroke doesn't really have anything to do with cam timing. A certain combination of block height, stroke, and piston CH will require certain length of rod to work properly. Now, rod ratio (rod length / 0.5 stroke) will affect IGNITION timing requirements, because the amount of time the piston spends near TDC for a given rpm will depend on rod ratio geometry.

 

Can't say about the block, the head a darn near negligible amount removed by the previous owner. As Curt Brown said, "Great condition core."

 

That is what I read the time the piston spends near the top is different, so that would be ignition time. I assume that is figured out in tuning. Which brings me to, I have a fresh rebuild and will I need tuning right away or do I have some time to break-in the motor

 

In actuality, a lot of other things affects the tune, including : a change in fuel components, spark plug & gap, displacement change, comp ratio, squish clearance, turbo, cam timing, ect that the rod ratio change is just a small percentage of the equation. I suppose the question is : what other change do you have on the car besides the stroker long rod motor?

 

Yes, their is other things that has been done. My original build was 2.0 with 10:1 compression. I was not happy with the high compression, so on my new build I dropped the compression down to 9:1 and decided to go with 2.2 long rod. Mainly to save the wear and tear on bearings (vs. doing 2.2 w/150mm rod). I upgraded the injector to blue max 1120 from 880. I added AMS VSR over stock manifold. I am hoping to be able to break-in motor before tune, because ER is about 3hr drive and I do not want to do that drive 2 times.