So I bought a "built" evo 8 and it was running a Precision 6262 turbo (recently replaced with new 6262) at about 34 psi. I am not going to lie I was beating the hell out of the car for the last hundred miles. I messed with the boost controller and turned it up slightly (to spiking at 35 psi) I was on the highway and got on it and at full boost 5-6000 rpms I noticed a chatter in the turbo almost like it hit a wall and was misfiring, I milked it home and it progressively got worse. When I got home it stalled right out and I had to pump the gas to fire it up and get it into my garage.

I am not 100% sure what caused the problems.

I checked the cylander pressure and the were all 144- to 155 cold.
I changed the plugs, and cleaned the air filter.
I also did a full pressure test on the intake side and it held fine (no major boost leak) I did find a the little caped lines right off the throttle body were dry rotted so I recapped them with new rubber.

I am new to the evo scene (been wanting one since they came out) but I am beyond my knowledge base.

Let me know what you would try next.

 

Here is the parts list in case your wondering the setup

Mod list:
2005 Lancer Evolution GSR


Fully built 4g63

2.0l standard bore 85mm Arp fasteners
Wiesco 1400hd 10.5 CR pistons
Crower rods
ACL triple race bearings
Set up on SD
Omni 4bar map sensor
Air temp sensor
New stock HG
GSC cams s3 with adj. cam gears
Supertech springs and retainers
Kiggly hla
5 angle valve job- ss valves
debur port job
Buschur ported intake manifold
Mil-spec 65mm TB
Spoolin up cop
ID 2000 injectors with harness
Innovative fuel rail
Aeromotive fuel regulator
Buschur double pumper
Shearer manifold
6262 turbo 3" vband .63ar
Tial 44mm wastegate
Tial blowoff valve
3.5" Buschur intercooler / piping
Custom downpipe
Tanabe touring medallion exhaust
Battery Relocated in trunk
Alum. Motor mounts
Carbon Fiber plug cover

Drivetrain

New ACD pump
Shep ultimate gear ratio trans
New slave cylinder and braided clutch line
New Exedy Triple disk clutch, TOB and clip( does chatter on like all twin and triple disk clutches do)
Alum. clutch fork stop
Upgraded bolts on transfer case

Interior

Radio Relocated
Triple gauge pod in stock radios location
Aem uego WB wired to rear o2 for tuning
Aem Oil press.
Prosport Boost
Evo 9 Black leather and suede interior
Black suede headliner, A and B pillars

Exterior/Suspension

Apex Silver
Evo 9 Front Bumper
Jdm Evo 9 Rear bumper
18’’ BBS LM reps
BC racing fully adj. coilover system(2k miles on them)
DC sports cs-1 front stut bar
HOTCHKIS rear sway bar
Sealed and Rust Proofed the entire under carriage

 

Prior to this it idled terribly below 2000rpm but I figured that was due to the 2000cc injectors and large cams.

 

Take it in...It shouldn't be idling like crap under 2000--and if its stalling out, a tune issue--but if it was a horrible tune and you drove the **** out of it, could be a whole lot more. Hope you have some money saved.

 

what do your fuel trims look like?

 

What PSI was it tuned for before you cranked it up?

 

sounds like a typical newb mistake of not bringing it in to a evo tech/shop and just beating the **** out of it because its "fast". good luck.

 

<p>1. dont touch a car you aren't tuning. hey look guys i can turn the boost up and run my car lean and blow it up! whoopee!</p><p>2. see step 1.</p><p>3. take it to a shop, let them diagnose. &nbsp;any number of things could have happened.</p>

 

Yup. Cranking up a small/stockish turbo is one thing. On a big turbo you better when proper fueling and timing in check!

 

You cant just dial the boost up and expect the car to be ok knowing nothing of its state of tune. Lucky if you didn't smoke something.

 

35psi on 10.5:1 pistons on pump gas that should tell you what the problem is. Your gonna need a new engine my friend.

 

what kind of fuel?

 

It was running 34 psi prior on 93 octane. So I turned it up a pound. I did change the plugs yesterday, turned the boost back down to 34psi and fixed a small leak in the throttle body (rubber caps on throttle body) it ended up firing right up and drove pretty good. When I got on the highway it ran fine then the service engine soon light came on... Still drove better than previously. When I shut it off if would not start up, no click no nothing, lucky for me I was on a hill and popped the clutch and it fired right up, drove it home and parked in the garage, tried starting again and same thing, pulled code and I got error with crank position sensor, which I ordered and should be in by Wednesday. Would this make the starter not even turn or engage, everything else works, radio, lights, ect. I can here the fuel pump kick on too. I'm glad it finally through a code though and it makes sense why that could lead to running like crap

 

Fuel trims run lean at idle 16-17 at first and under load they are 11-13 or so. If its running for a while the idle/ fuel ratio jumps around at idle

 

34 psi is what it was at when I purchased it