I dont get it, you asked if the break in oil for the rebuild could have caused the problem, but the problem started before the rebuild? Also can you elaborate as to why the engine was rebuilt? If for example something in the bottom end grenaded, then there is a chance of metal shavings gunking **** up if it wasnt cleaned well etc...

 

Sorry for the confusion. The P0011 code is 100% gone. I thought it came back because the check engine light came back on. I scanned the code today and the P0011 code is gone and now I have a P0443 evap circuit . Any idea if the mivec circuit and evap circuit are connected? I didn't have this code until after I rewired the mivec signal wire on pin 2.

I forgot I already had that code when I made this topic. The code was present before the motor blew so it shouldn't have been related to the motor bowing. Regardless the mivec code is gone so it was in the wiring.

 

Oh okay that makes sense. It sounds like you have some gremlins for sure. Maybe your climate is accelerating corrosion or something, or maybe rodents chewing on your wires? Try and look for some physical evidence that may point to a common cause.

 

Best way to test this circuit :



1. Unplug mivec oil control valve / solenoid which is a 2 wire connector.
2. Key on engine off put the red lead if your multimeter on the red and yellow wire pin.
3. Ground the black lead at a known good ground.
If you have battery voltage the first half of your circuit is good.

4. With your positive lead at the red and yellow wire pin touch your negative lead to the other pin .

If you are loosing excessive voltage between the known good ground and the signal ground then you have a problem with the signal ground wire . If I t's battery voltage or slightly less then it is good.

If you get no reading using your signal ground then you either have an open between your connector and your ecu , or your ecu isn't grounding the circuit as it should and your ecu is bad.

Edit: make sure the connector has a red and yellow wire (12v) and a pink and black wire (ecu grounds this with car one engine off.)

 

Apparently . I found out that the yellow and green wire is the color of the wire that is supposed to be the signal wire for the purge solenoid which makes me curious if the previous owner mixed up the purple and pink with the yellow and green since the signal wire I replaced for the mivec ocv connector was yellow and green even though it was supposed to be pink and black. Guess ill see tomorrow.

 

Awesome, thanks. I'll try this next chance I get.

 

Not a problem.

To clarify all confusion my car is fixed. I found the EVAP purge solenoid and wtf it has a purple and black wire and then I realize the connector is identical to the ocv connector. Then it hits me ...the connectors got mixed up during engine installation or who knows ... Maybe even before since I had the code before that.
So I soldered all the wires back to how they were , removed my wire replacement , and plugged everything in the correct place ...Bam no codes . I'm guessing The reason this wasn't discovered sooner is because it set a mivec code but didn't set an evap code until I actually cut the evap signal wire to replace it thinking it was the ocv signal wire. You would think having two connectors mixed up would set both codes ... Live and learn

 

Good job on the fix. Always the little things

 

been following this trying to troubleshoot my own P0011 code. Going to check this later this evening to see if it solves my code too!

 

Good luck. I tried to put a lot of details to help others test the electrical side of this code.

 

So my battery voltage is 12.03v. In the first test (R/Y wire to ground) I got 11.94V and for the second (Voltage between both connectors) I got 10.85V. Does that seem to indicate a problem?

 

Seems like you have excessive resistance in the ground wire to the ecu. I would find pin 32 on the ecu connector and check how many ohms of resistance you have between that pin 32 and the oil control valve connector pin 2. What color wire is the other wire ?

 

Yellow and green, strangely.

I was going to check that today but I got sidetracked. I will tomorrow.

I took out the OCV and tested it. It moves when voltage is directly applied from the battery but it seems like it's not moving very much relative to the max distance it can move. I also (when the OCV was still out) connected it to it's connector with the car on (not running obviously, just on) expecting it to energize since the connected does have voltage and it did nothing.

I left the connected disconnected and drove the car around and the code hasn't come up yet (though it usually takes a day or so) and the logs are showing the same value which I find strange.

I really hope I don't have to buy a new OCV because they seem to be multiple hundred dollars.

 

Ok , read my post a few up, two of your connectors are most likely changed. The wire is supposed to be black and pink. Look behind the intake manifold to the left . There is an identical two wire connector that goes to the evap purge solenoid. If the wire is black and pink switch the connectors and you're good.

 

I'll feel pretty dumb if that's the case. Especially since I did a "minor" wire tuck when I rebuilt my engine.

Edit: OH MY GOD. I can't believe that. I owe you a beer or something.