Originally Posted by CeliOnce

I'll feel pretty dumb if that's the case. Especially since I did a "minor" wire tuck when I rebuilt my engine.

Edit: OH MY GOD. I can't believe that. I owe you a beer or something.

Originally Posted by uneekvisions

Yea my wires were fine so back to the drawing board for my code. My builder and I are thinking it might be in the tune. I have a dual map tune e85/93. So I'm gonna switch to the 93 map after I run through my current tank of E85 and see if it goes away. The tuner already dialed back the timing on the E85 map once, but I'm gonna have another tuner go through the tunes and see if the initial tuner missed something.

Originally Posted by Sheasta

Best way to test this circuit :



1. Unplug mivec oil control valve / solenoid which is a 2 wire connector.
2. Key on engine off put the red lead if your multimeter on the red and yellow wire pin.
3. Ground the black lead at a known good ground.
If you have battery voltage the first half of your circuit is good.

4. With your positive lead at the red and yellow wire pin touch your negative lead to the other pin .

If you are loosing excessive voltage between the known good ground and the signal ground then you have a problem with the signal ground wire . If I t's battery voltage or slightly less then it is good.

If you get no reading using your signal ground then you either have an open between your connector and your ecu , or your ecu isn't grounding the circuit as it should and your ecu is bad.

Edit: make sure the connector has a red and yellow wire (12v) and a pink and black wire (ecu grounds this with car one engine off.)