I was wondering if anyone else has done this to their EVO? I have installed everything so far, the only issue I am having is hooking it up to the throttle body. I do not want to mess anything up, so I am seeing if anyone has suggestions or pictures of how they properly installed this.

I read and viewed this link (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tallation.html)

It was helpful with many things, but I believe the user no longer is on here anymore. It is now approaching 7 years...

Any help would be great thank you.

 

I installed same on my Evo 8 several weeks ago. No clutch switch, the rpm (tacho) sensor kicks the cruise off same as a clutch switch so a clutch switch is not needed. The tacho signal is available at the front on the inner underhood electrical box. The dip switch for transmission needs to be set to manual transmission for the tacho to work. Leave the dip switch in automatic and the black box expects to see a neutral start switch and things don't work right.

Dip switch settings:
1. On
2. Off
3. On
4. Off
5. Off
6. Off
7. On
8. Off
9. Off
10. On
11. Off
12 Off

The Rostra replaced a previous unit that failed after 10 years of service.

To your question: At the time of the first installation I found a little clip at a hobby shop in the RC section that would clamp two cables together - useful in RC aircraft. I reused the clip on the present installation. Other that that I used a clamp (see pic)(not tight) to immobilize the sheaths. Neither part comes in the kit.

As you probably know, the web site has instruction saying to call if installing on an Evo. When you call they say you can't attach to the throttle.

The box itself is hung off of the strut tower brace next to the master cylinder.

Going through the firewall I used the grommet behind the glove box. That's about it. Unit works fine.

Click on the pictures to enlarge. I hope this helps.

 

A couple more pics of cruise installation. The plated bracket is a left over from the previous installation to which I added a bracket included in the kit. So, bracket, bracket, actuator. The cabin control with the on/off switch is not a great design. I tend to hit the on/off switch when intending to actuate the other buttons.

The wire on the left connects to the transmission speed sensor. The wire on the right connects to the tacho. The wire with the wire nut does nothing on this application. For power I went to the lighter in the consul and included a disconnect for when removing the consul. Anyway, I didn't want to mess with the plugs on the ECU and didn't have to.

 

Hello BarneyB,

I hope that you can answer a couple questions and provide some more insight.

So I am about to start work on my rostra cruise control installation. I was also going to use a clamp from my R/C airplane bits and bobs. I was curious how your clamp has been holding up. I was going to use a slightly different version.

Also I was curious how you connected to the transmission speed sensor. Did you just tap it with a posi-tap or some other basic plastic splice component; or somehow insert the wire into the connector itself?

 

My cruise is currently down. Returning from the Thanksgiving holiday it wouldn't hold speed. The cable sheath (which needs anchoring at the throttle end) had slipped. I had used a wire rope clip to attach the cruise control cable sheath to the accelerator cable sheath.

Once home and seeing what had happened I tightened the wire rope clip – a little too much – and crushed the sheath which locked the cable. So, no cruise. Also, the cruise cable itself has to be able to slide back into its sheath as the throttle opens (important initial adjustment) or otherwise it kinks. So, mine, since it couldn't move, kinked. Coming back into town from the disappointing test drive and playing with the button, the actuator finally overcame the clamp and pulled the throttle wide open which is how I learned the engine is more powerful than the brakes. No children or animals were injured. Anyway, I need a new cable and sheath.

The little RC cable clip worked great until I broke it disconnecting the cruise after the formentioned trip. I used to have a photograph of the clip packaging with part # but I think a failed hard drive took that picture. So, I need something new too. For the speed sensor wire I used one of those disgusting clips that join two wires together. - whatever they are called.

Overall, I'd say the Rostra is not a prize winning piece of equipment but I think its the only company still in this business. The previous cruise I had on this car, which failed electrically after a decade of service, was as good as OEM.

 

do you remember the brand of the previous one at all?

 

No. What was toast was the control module itself. I first established that the company was gone and then spend some hours trying to find any supply house with leftover parts. No luck.

 

I had a similar experience with a engineering development car. The electronic throttle plate went full open when in cruise control and shifting the automatic trans to manual shift mode. Couldn't get it out of manual shift mode to Neutral and the start button didn't work so had to hit the Emergency Stop button. Spooky thing to feel. Mentally you have to keep steering, re-evaluate all objects ahead that you need to avoid and then apply all other brain power to stopping the thing. Luckily I was at the test road complex.

Thanks for the update. I did look at your wire rope clamp and decided not to do that to secure the cruise control wire sheath. I haven't figured out a solution yet. I have looked online and have seen various ideas used to hold the sheath hmmm.

Glad to hear that your cable clamp worked though.

So no issues I guess with the basic splice things. I will do that or I will solder a takeoff wire onto the trans speed sensor wire.

 

I've used the audiovox CC units on several motorcycles over the years and they work great.

They have multiple settings to work with almost any car and can use a very small control pad that could be stuck to the dash.

I wonder how adaptable they'd be for our cars??

 

I did some searching before settling on the Rostra and it seems that all others have dropped out of the market. There are some Audiovox units out there but they no longer have it on their website. Maybe that means they are making a new and improved version IDK.

I guess my decision came down to either engineering a modern custom solution or going with the Rostra.

A modern solution could use a more compact cable control system using and get rid of dip switches in favor of some programmed chip. Or as my friend in the OEM automaker engine programming would say, "Or just adapt a electric motor actuated throttle body to the car, and add a signal generator the accelerator pedal. Then cruise control by the ecu programming."

My time and money = Rostra.

 

^^^

Hmmm after posting that I wonder if someone HAS put an Evo 10 throttle body on an Evo 8/9 to get the electronic throttle working????

Anyone already running this setup?

 

You'd most certainly need to go to a high end Stand Alone ECU to adapt any custom DBW system into the car. Motec?

 

One thing I notice, now that my cruise is down, is if around town and on an arterial, I'm driving at about 3500 rpm, right where my stock turbo kicks in. So my speed with small throttle adjustments is all over the place. Get on the interstate at speed and again I'm at 3500 rpm and in the same situation. Since I always had cruise I used it a lot. I think its better to be watching out the windshield than watching the speedometer.

 

beside the point, stock turbo should spool at ~2500rpm and be full spool by ~3000rpm. I've never had cruise control on this car and have no issues holding anywhere between 55mph and 80mph on the freeway. I blame your lead foot

 

Being used to riding the cruise most of the time I agree with what you say about my foot. It needs retraining. But spool at 2500 - I'm dubious.

Part of my problem may be the fuel I've recently been using - E30 claimed to be 92 octane. Well, I don't know what really is in it but the car loves it.