Hi all,

Picked up the Evo a few months ago and haven't had the best of luck so far. Here's a chain of events that led to the parking, and now potential teardown of this beast:

3 weeks ago I was beating the car pretty good- the dipstick blew out and I lost quite a bit of oil. Apparently it's a common problem, but I've since remedied with a Buschur dipstick spring.

Parked the car and did the following:
Battery Relocate
Catch Can/PCV Delete
Oil Change

Started the car yesterday and it was ROUGH...really struggling to stay running, heavy exhaust smell and ultimately, oil blowing out of the exhaust/burning.

I walked to the back of the car and found this:



Here are pictures of the catch can install- 99.9% sure everything is correct:




Plugs:


Gauge readings- oil pressure: 27 , vac: -15, A/f: bouncin between 13/15



Videos of it running:



Revved it and built boost and this was the result:



The car is heavily modded, stroked to a 2.3L, Evo 9 turbo, etc.

Myself and a few Evo friends tend to agree the turbo seals have given- does anyone disagree?

Also, is there a turbo that will require no modification to my existing setup that is an upgrade for under $750? It's internal wastegate and I'm not wanting to do a full tear down right now, so as little modification as possible- looking for something that is a direct replacement to an Evo 9 turbo that may offer some advantages. Thoughts? Otherwise I can just rebuild the 9 turbo.

Thanks for the help!

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sale-wtb-engine-drivetrain-power/722224-bbk-full.html This is the one to get, if you have some extra cash around.

 

That looks like a great deal! I am hearing from a very respected DSM guy that my catch can is run wrong...anyone else have thoughts?

 

Is the catch can just hooked from one side of the valve cover to the other? Cause yah thats wrong if it is, one side needs to go into your intake (pre Turbo) or to a VTA breather. Also that rust looks scary, you might wanna take care of that before it becomes a bigger problem. Rust is car cancer, don't let that **** spread.

 

Yes, that's the case. Looking online and validation from you, that's wrong. It was recommended that I move the one from the back of the VC to the intake pipe (keeping the one on the right side of the VC). Apparently that may fix a good portion of my issues and then I definitely need a tune with how rich it is running.

That is pretty much the only rust on the entire car, and it's from a previous wreck (last owner, not me). I am keeping an eye on it and will likely sand and paint it when it gets a bit warmer.

 

PS, sorry for such dumb questions. I'm new to Evo's and came from a fairly simple SR20 240sx. These things are quite a bit more expensive so I don't want to do anything dumb.

 

Did you run a compression test?

 

Looking over your pics again, your catch can does have a breather on it, so the pressure should at least have somewhere to go, but there is benefit in having the line hooked back up to the intake. The suction created has advantages that you can research if you desire. I would take apart that catch can too and make sure air really can escape from it, because you shouldnt be blowing your dip stick if thats the case. +1 on the compression test because the dip stick popping out could be a sign of excessive blow by through the rings.

 

The dip stick was before I did the catch can (it's actually what made me do the catch can).

I have not run a compression test but I planned to do it this week with a leak down test but if it's just a simple catch can line-rearrangement then I'll just do that.

 

Regarding the catch can setup.

- Run one line from the pcv to the can and one line from the can to a welded -6 line on your dipstick.
- Then run the vent line on the drivers side of your valve cover to your intake pre turbo.

From what I understand thats one of the better setups. And thats what I am running on mine and all of the lines are -6.

 

Swapped everything around tonight-

1) Reinstalled the PCV hose to IM and back of VC

2) Moved line from back of VC to pipe on intake

3) Inspected CC and CC lines to make sure no clogs


Car won't start. Cranks, started for about 1 second and instantly died. Now it just cranks and cranks and cranks. What the ****...one thing- the plugs are pretty beat up. I don't have any to swap tonight, but it ran yesterday (granted...pretty rough), and now it won't even start.

 

Get new plugs, gap them right, and install them. See what that does to the car.
If you re-installed the PCV hose, where is the hose coming from in the second picture(the one to the intake)?

 

The other side of the catch can (left in the picture). Do I have that backwards?

I bought the plugs and some new tie rods- they'll be here Saturday.

Any recommendation on gapping?

 

Check the harness connectors at the Crank angle sensor and Cam angle sensor. You would have been working in those areas, also the ground from the cam angle sensor harness can become very brittle.

 

You disconnected the battery when you relocated, so it's pretty normal for it to run a bit rough for a little while. It should totally start though. You could gap the plugs at 20 and see how it does.