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4g63 reliable engine?

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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 12:20 AM
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4g63 reliable engine?

hi guys!

i wanted to know is the 4g63 a reliable engine or not for making 500 plus HP?

iv'e had 2 bad experiences with this engine and just want to make sure that this engine is good and reliable before i spend another 4000$ on a block.

so if the tuning is perfect and everything else too, will the engine be the weakest link?

i had a built engine but due to a bad tuner, it blew. bought a second built engine, due to timing belt snapping it blew. so i havent been able too see myself if its reliable.

now i wanted to know, if everything is fine, will a built block be able to handle 500 plus hp and not blow for thousands of miles to come?

i only drive it on the weekends and not daily, im just so scared of spending money again on a block so thats why im asking you guys.
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 01:35 AM
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A 2 litre motor pushing 500hp.....as you know shyte happens

Why not just run 400/400 and have fun
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonno99
A 2 litre motor pushing 500hp.....as you know shyte happens

Why not just run 400/400 and have fun
That comment makes no sense whatsoever. If you buy the right parts it can do 500 reliably without a problem. You should have bought a kevlar belt too they dont break normally.
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 08:15 AM
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Its all about who tunes your car. I have had over 500 whp since 2008 in my evo never had a problem with it other then cold start issues and or the regular stuff that goes wrong, starters, plugs, oil changes etc.
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by cursedsm
Its all about who tunes your car. I have had over 500 whp since 2008 in my evo never had a problem with it other then cold start issues and or the regular stuff that goes wrong, starters, plugs, oil changes etc.
thats reassuring, as long as the engine it self doesnt blow its fine with me, i can deal with other issues but not whole engines.

so have you ever since 2008 opened your engine/block to change things or its still running with same bearings,rings etc?
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by babaz7
thats reassuring, as long as the engine it self doesnt blow its fine with me, i can deal with other issues but not whole engines.

so have you ever since 2008 opened your engine/block to change things or its still running with same bearings,rings etc?
Block has never been opened other then getting ARP's into the head and a new head gasket. Currently I have a new block being done up and it will go in here soon.
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 09:34 AM
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It's just bad luck BUT may I have more details about how you blew your first one bc of the bad tune.i mean look if you had an afr gauge probably CEL to indicate knock and kept beating on it,then it's different story.yes they are strong. For your weekend car it should last forever even with 600 hp.unless you track it on weekends.gl
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by egis
It's just bad luck BUT may I have more details about how you blew your first one bc of the bad tune.i mean look if you had an afr gauge probably CEL to indicate knock and kept beating on it,then it's different story.yes they are strong. For your weekend car it should last forever even with 600 hp.unless you track it on weekends.gl
yes, so i bought a brand new built block from a guy who just started his shop, he said he will also tune it for me at no additional cost, so i was happy with the deal...so i install the engine in my car and send him logs so he can email tune my car, as the boost went up (35+psi) the car started to show knocking in the logs, he tried to fix the knocks but every map he sent me, there would still be knocks showing in the maps across the range. so he sent me another map saying this will cure it, and it did or so as i thought. the map didnt show any knocks for the first 3 pulls, till i did another pull and heard clunking noise from the engine bay. so i tow the car home and pull the pan and its spun its bearings and has metal shavings in the oil, plus the crank is done.

so the tuner goes like, obviously its a mechanical thing and stuff goes wrong and its not my fault, and i belive him and end of story. till i get my second built block and tune it from some other guy and he looks at my map and goes, who ever tuned your previous engine he disabled the knock sensor/table thats why your engine blew up. so basically the guy couldnt get rid of the knocks so he turned off the knock sensor from the ecu to show zero knocks in the map and i blew my engine within 5 pulls after that.
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 10:49 AM
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That's to bad, its a shame that people do that kinda ****. I know having my block done now I will get a spec sheet and everything else with it. I over spent on it but that's ok rather go big and not need it ya know. I mean I will need it when I get my s369 on the car but till then it should be pretty stout and last a long time.
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by cursedsm
That's to bad, its a shame that people do that kinda ****. I know having my block done now I will get a spec sheet and everything else with it. I over spent on it but that's ok rather go big and not need it ya know. I mean I will need it when I get my s369 on the car but till then it should be pretty stout and last a long time.
i also got a spec sheet with my block and got the best parts installed, but too bad he was a crappy tuner and messed my engine up...just make sure you go to a very highly rated tuner.

and good luck with your build
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by babaz7
i also got a spec sheet with my block and got the best parts installed, but too bad he was a crappy tuner and messed my engine up...just make sure you go to a very highly rated tuner.

and good luck with your build
Thanks yeah I trust him he tunes Kigglys car all the time. Its a great shop and hes top notch and I have no doubt my car will be just sick
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 04:02 PM
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Coming from old school DSM and the old 4G63s, imho i think 4g63 are ONE of the most reliable 2.0L inport blocks out there. Granted i have blown one, BUT that was when i was in high school...nuff said LOL.

I think it basically comes down to how good u maintain it, but if cared for properly theyll last A LONG TIME.
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 04:12 PM
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400/400 is a lot more dangerous than 520/380
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by babaz7
so he sent me another map saying this will cure it, and it did or so as i thought. the map didnt show any knocks for the first 3 pulls, till i did another pull and heard clunking noise from the engine bay. so i tow the car home and pull the pan and its spun its bearings and has metal shavings in the oil, plus the crank is done.

so the tuner goes like, obviously its a mechanical thing and stuff goes wrong and its not my fault, and i belive him and end of story. till i get my second built block and tune it from some other guy and he looks at my map and goes, who ever tuned your previous engine he disabled the knock sensor/table thats why your engine blew up. so basically the guy couldnt get rid of the knocks so he turned off the knock sensor from the ecu to show zero knocks in the map and i blew my engine within 5 pulls after that.
i could be wrong, but i think knock should break ring lands or otherwise damage a piston, not so much spin a bearing. spun bearings are usually poor oil circulation.

either way, bummer man.

these engines are tough, no doubt. but asking 250whp per liter can be a tall order. with the right parts and the right tune, it should be fine. just keep the torque reasonable.
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 05:01 PM
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Fast forward to about 1:05. Hope that answers your question.
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