Yo guys, so I just installed some enkei X wheels on my 9 with the stock tire setup 245/40/18. I'm currently on Swift Spec R's with the MR bilsteins. With some low mph turns I am getting slight rear fender rub on the driver side only. How? I have no clue. I'm not a big fan of rolling fenders, so I was wondering if a little more camber to the rear or all around would help. I am currently running the EvoM recommended camber setting for the swifts, 1.7 in he front and 1.3 in the rear, no toe. What would you guys recommend bumping it up to for a DD?

Thanks!

 

Should have posted in the W/T forum

Its that 40 series tire thats doing it. I ran the X wheel w/a 255/35 & had -1.8 in the rear (stock lip)

You can try kicking it up to -1.8 max before considering a 3/4 rear roll

 

Thanks for the input man! Glad you got in here. Well, I have yet to buy new tires which is on my list of things to do. I was going to stick with the stock size for now and ge the potenza RE760. I have a friend that can roll the fenders, but I just don't have a good gut feeling about it since I have bad luck and my paint would probably crack.

If I were to kick it up to lets say 1.8 in the rear, what would I set the front to? I do some spirited driving here and there but I don't autox etc. More of a fun DD i take into the canyons at times.

 

Im really the last guy that advocates adding camber to fit. But just to get you to clear, the -1.8 is as far as I would suggest

Would rather see you get the rear fender rolled w/at least a 3/4 roll. If its done right, using a heat gun, paint cracking can be minimized or eliminated.

For an aggressive street set up you can go w/the factory front camber option noted here:− 2°00' ± 0°30'*. Stock setting is: − 1°00' ± 0°30'*

I like your idea of keeping the 40 series tire as the 35 is on the thin side IMO. The 40 gives it the meaty look

 

I'm of the opinion that first principles for suspension settings like camber should be focused on the car's handling and not just for clearing your fenders.

 

I definitely agree with you. I wouldn't normally add camber for looks purposes, but if it means I'll be able to safely clear my fenders, I'm cool with it. Tire wear is a lot cheaper than paint work, worst case scenario

 

Rolling fenders will not involve paint work as long as the person doing it does it right and keeps the paint warm.

 

It has been discussed several times, if I were to do it again I would trim the fender instead of rolling it.
The evo fender is double wall spot welded, it can be difficult to roll evenly.

Just shoving some knowledge in here.

 

I'm running SWIFT + Bilsteins, 18x8.5 +35 with 235/40, no fender work and no rubbing.

 

I ended up sorting everything out and I am a bit embarrassed lol. Turns out, I wasn't rubbing any fender whatsoever, but the actual front fender liner inside. How did I mix the front up with the rear? No clue, I'm pretty sure im deaf.

So anyway, all is well and I ordered a new set of RE760 tires and will be using the heat gun method to mold the fender liner. Thanks for your input everyone!

 

Just cut the liner or let the tires wear away some material until it doesn't rub anymore. As long as it's not the actual fender, fender liner is easily replaceable.

 

Man that's strange im at -1.5 camber all the way around and very low like cannot fit a finger between my fender and tire with the same wheel tire as you and it does rub at all. I wonder if you have a bad wheel bearing or something. Im going to roll mine and go 255 this summer and move to -1.8 or 2 and it still wont rub.

 

I actually wasn't rubbing any fender, but just the front liner itself on the far inside at full lock. All is good!