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Transmission problem?? Pls help

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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 02:02 AM
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Transmission problem?? Pls help

hi I have an evo9 and the gearbox is very hard to change gear when it's cold from first gear to second gear, it's only when the car cold once it's up to temperature it shift fine. The feeling is like change from first gear to scoundrel gear the whole gearknob is shaking and I can't get into secound gear. I don't know how to describe it, I think it's call transmission slipping? It's only happens when the car is cold and only from first gear to second gear.
has anyone had this problem and how to get it fix?
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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 03:05 AM
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It's like grinding when changing from first gear to second gear.
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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 04:43 AM
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what oil are you using? at a guess the oil is too thick when cold, once it warms up the oil thins up and shifting is alot smoother and cleaner.

my skyline had redline mt90 and when cold it use to crunch in gear until warmed up and it would be smooth as silk
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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 09:35 AM
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Probably a weak synchronizer that still works when the oil thins. My 1992 DSM came from the factory with bad synchronizers. It was very particular about what oil I used. With very thin oil it shifted fine. However, pretty soon, using thin oil, I needed a new transmission.

So, if it is a synchronizer, the fix is pulling and overhauling the transmission.
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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mrhussain
what oil are you using? at a guess the oil is too thick when cold, once it warms up the oil thins up and shifting is alot smoother and cleaner.

my skyline had redline mt90 and when cold it use to crunch in gear until warmed up and it would be smooth as silk
I'm not sure bought the car not long ago, should I try to replace the gearoil first?
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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mrhussain
what oil are you using? at a guess the oil is too thick when cold, once it warms up the oil thins up and shifting is alot smoother and cleaner.

my skyline had redline mt90 and when cold it use to crunch in gear until warmed up and it would be smooth as silk
Originally Posted by barneyb
Probably a weak synchronizer that still works when the oil thins. My 1992 DSM came from the factory with bad synchronizers. It was very particular about what oil I used. With very thin oil it shifted fine. However, pretty soon, using thin oil, I needed a new transmission.

So, if it is a synchronizer, the fix is pulling and overhauling the transmission.
can I just fix the synchronizer? Or do I need to rebuild the whole transmission? If to rebuild the transmission how much would be a reasonable cost?
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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by eddy5201314
can I just fix the synchronizer? Or do I need to rebuild the whole transmission? If to rebuild the transmission how much would be a reasonable cost?
You have a lot of options here. First of all, since you don't know what oil is in the transmission you could try swapping it out for OEM. Also, quite a variety of clutches are in these cars. Make sure there is no clutch drag.

Beyond that, you could just do a synchronizer either at the dealer or some shop. Maybe, if good with tools, do it yourself. Getting the transmission in and out yourself, if you choose to do that, is always a learning experience if you know what I mean. It is a tight fit and heavy.

What many owners do is send transmissions away for rebuilds at one of the four shops in the US with known good reputations. There's probably similar shops in your part of the globe. The advantage here is that the entire transmission gets looked at and any questionable parts replaced. I suggest you either phone these places or visit their web sites for estimates of cost.
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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by barneyb
You have a lot of options here. First of all, since you don't know what oil is in the transmission you could try swapping it out for OEM. Also, quite a variety of clutches are in these cars. Make sure there is no clutch drag.

Beyond that, you could just do a synchronizer either at the dealer or some shop. Maybe, if good with tools, do it yourself. Getting the transmission in and out yourself, if you choose to do that, is always a learning experience if you know what I mean. It is a tight fit and heavy.

What many owners do is send transmissions away for rebuilds at one of the four shops in the US with known good reputations. There's probably similar shops in your part of the globe. The advantage here is that the entire transmission gets looked at and any questionable parts replaced. I suggest you either phone these places or visit their web sites for estimates of cost.
unfortunately I don't have enough tools that can remove the transmission out, so I think I'll take it to Mitsubishi dealer to check it out but I don't want to get rip off, some of my friend said it's clutch but some said it's transmission
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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 07:29 PM
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While parked on a smooth level surface, let the clutch out slowly in gear and notice where the car starts to move. If it tries to move at the top of the stroke you have clutch drag - the clutch is not releasing completely.
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by barneyb
While parked on a smooth level surface, let the clutch out slowly in gear and notice where the car starts to move. If it tries to move at the top of the stroke you have clutch drag - the clutch is not releasing completely.
yeah the car only moves when I almost released all the way off the clutch, my other car used to moved on the half way I let the clutch go
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by barneyb
While parked on a smooth level surface, let the clutch out slowly in gear and notice where the car starts to move. If it tries to move at the top of the stroke you have clutch drag - the clutch is not releasing completely.
but does that make me shift hard from first to second gear while the engine is cold?
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by eddy5201314
yeah the car only moves when I almost released all the way off the clutch, my other car used to moved on the half way I let the clutch go
That might be a problem for the clutch but not the transmission.
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by barneyb
That might be a problem for the clutch but not the transmission.
I'm bring the car into Mitsubishi dealer for a check up, if it's the clutch should I just replace the oem clutch or racing clutch is better?
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by eddy5201314
I'm bring the car into Mitsubishi dealer for a check up, if it's the clutch should I just replace the oem clutch or racing clutch is better?
If you have plans for more power get a stage 2 at least. Comp is affordable and I like mine. Exedy is always an option too.
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by barneyb
That might be a problem for the clutch but not the transmission.
Originally Posted by Ferp
If you have plans for more power get a stage 2 at least. Comp is affordable and I like mine. Exedy is always an option too.
yeah I have exedy stage 2 in mind at the moment, is it a good ideal to change lighter flywheel too?
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