dookgvr4

iTrader: (14)

Wrapping everything up prior to tune. Just installed turbo ,FMIC ,redid/bled brake system etc.etc.

Last thing to do is install cams, springs. And for some reason I am so apprehensive of this job...... Maybe I am overthinking this.

I have read countless threads,and have viewed multiple videos...

So hopefully someone can clarify some items for me.

I am looking to swap cams for s2 on my evo 8, and install gsc valve springs as well. All while keeping the head on the car and not messing with the timing belt hopefully. I realize I will need a tensioner tool to take tension off but that is the most I want to mess with it.

I will acquire the spring tool, and I intend to use the compressed air method. But the thing I am having trouble wrapping my head around is how much air?

Also if I have the engine at TDC. 1 and 4 will be at top of stoke correct? Do I add air to these as well? What pressure?

I just do not want the belt to move off time.

Can someone lead me in the right direction? As in advice? Or point to right thread that I might have missed?

Thanks

hutch959

iTrader: (18)

with the cams off.... all the valves are shut.
so it doesnt matter where the piston is at in the stroke.

ive never done this... but , i have changed cams.

just get all your timing marks lined up, and ziptie your belts on the cam gears and then take them off...(all kinds of videos on this... watch them).

then i would assume, after you take off the cams you go one cylinder by cylinder replacing the springs...

then put it all back together.

dookgvr4

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the reply.

The confusing part for me is .... And I just want to make sure, or prevent if I can.


Is when I add compressed air into the cylinder is it going to cause things to move out of time? And should I? Or can I prevent this?


Also the air? How much psi should I be using? And should I do all cylinder when engine is at TDC?


Sorry if I am being hard headed.....

hutch959

iTrader: (18)

timings is not as difficult as it seems...
just get the motor at top dead center where the crank mark lines up and the two cams line up.

then zip tie the belt to the cam gears. ..
take the cam gears off and keep them "pulled up" to keep the whole system under tention, that way the belt doesnt slip teeth on the crank.

even if it ends up slipping a tooth, you will catch it when you trying to make sure all is in time once putting it back together.

hutch959

iTrader: (18)

one thing i will tell you.

when using the tensioner tool, screw it in till it hits the tensioner... and then turn it about a 1/2 turn and wait a few seconds, then turn another 1/2 and wait a few seconds... then do it again.....

my point is, dont just crank on the thing.
you have to give the tensioner a little time to retract.

if you just crank the heck out of it, you will damage the tool

RightSaid fred

Take the head off.

It'll take less time and you're less likely to bend a valve.

barneyb

I used rope in the cylinders. I've used air before but not on the 4g63. I have this picture in my mind of the air hose popping off. So, I pulled the spark plug, fed in rope and then turned the piston up to mash the rope against the valves. When you depress the valve spring, if there's no rope under that valve the keepers don't release so no worry about dropping a valve. Probably can't drop it anyway with the piston up.

Anyway, plug all the drain back holes in the head, the keepers are tiny and easy to drop.

dookgvr4

iTrader: (14)

Ok I answered some of my own questions but I have one last lingering one....

I have everything prepped ready to go. Tools are on order, I took the valve cover off and I made my air adapter.

Now while waiting for my tools I did a test run and added air to the cylinders in a trial run.

I lined up my cam gears at tdc and added air to cylinders 1 and 4 which were at the top of the stroke. And the kept pressure.

2-3 at bottom of stroke will not hold air. I assume because they are down that the air escapes out of the manifold.


So..... if I bring 2-3 to top of stroke and zip tie the belt to gears will I be able to keep it in time?

So I guess my intentions are to do 1-4 put gears back on then bring 2-3 to tdc zip tie and do those and put back together and check timing

Is that "doable"?

I am prepared to revamp the timing belt if necessary, but if I can avoid it, naturally I would like to.

If anyone has such experience I would appreciate it.

Ready to go...

dookgvr4

iTrader: (14)

Well come to find out if anyone is interested and correct me if I am wrong.

I bounced this off a old school car guy that I work with and duh......it's right in the picture.

Since I had not removed the cams yet you can see where my error was. The lobes on cylinders 2-3 are down which has the valves open. It has nothing to do with piston posistion. The air is escaping right out of the valves.

So in theory when my valve spring tool/timing tools arrive, and I remove the cams cylinders 2-3 should hold air just as 1-4 do and I shouldn't have to dick with the timing belt.

Will report back....

Evo_Goodness

I'm very curious on this to I want to do 272 kelford cams and hear I have to do the valve Springs also but then I have also heard I can run stock Springs fine hmm lol

hutch959

iTrader: (18)

dookgvr4

iTrader: (14)

Reading comprehension FTL


I was nervous

Anyhow hoping to tackle this over the weekend

SW20Mike

iTrader: (6)

I used the air method, everything worked out great. Learn from my mistake though, replace your valve spring seals and titanium retainers. I installed S2 cams with MAP beehive springs, few months later I was out of town for about 2 months. Car started burning oil at idle, taking off the valve cover showed some of the seals were damaged. No big deal, could've waited to gone home to fix that. My big problem was the OEM retainers were cracking too, I think 3 of the split 1/3 off, so I almost dropped a few valves. I paid a local tuner shop that was good with evos the same cost of swapping cams, to just do my seals and retainers, but it had to be done. If that shop wasn't near me, I don't know who I would've trusted to do the job.

dookgvr4

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the tip.

I am using gsc springs which are made to work with the s2's and the factory seats and retainers.

Maybe the map ones were considerably stiffer?

Anyone else any experience with either?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

There has been more than a few instances of cracked stock retainers with upgraded springs. I would get retainers.