Hey guys, I tried to search something that can relate to my problem but I have no luck. So I’m doing this thread. Any help and advise I’d appreciate it.

So a couple days ago I disconnected my battery to reset my SES by disconnecting the positive terminal (I know, I should’ve done the negative instead, lesson learned) and left it overnight.
The next morning I went and connect the +terminal back to the battery and PUFF!!(medium spark&smoke) and I was like uh-oh that can’t be good. I tightened them up and got in the car and start it, everything seems to be working normal.

I checked all the lights, power windows, wiper, headlights, radio, cig light, it all look normal. Except yesterday, my central power lock quit working and for some reason if I roll down any windows, it starts to lock all the doors. So I turned off the car and started it back up, the power lock button works again. But only for one time use and went dead again and goes back to the windows.

So it’s been kinda on and off since then, not sure what’s wrong and where to look beside the fuse box under the hood and under steering column

And also when I get out from the car and close the door it will automatically lock all the doors. Now it gets to the point I have to lock and unlock the doors manually, so annoying.

 

 

when you use the key in the driver door does it unlock the other doors? I had an issue with the sensor on the lock cylinder itself in the driver door causing havoc with my door locks. Might be worth opening up the door and checking the wiring and that the sensor is properly secured on the door lock cylinder. The spark and "puff" of smoke was probably just some amps arcing on the battery terminal, no big deal. There are some capacitors in the cars electronics and when the car has been disconnected for a while those drain and when you reconnect it sucks up some juice real quick.

 

 

Yah to solve this problem will probably require some electrical troubleshooting. It could be that something shorted and caused the bigger spark, if you suspect that you should check fuses, but its probably not related to the locks.

 

 

Yea definitely, either I gotta learn about the electrical basic to troubleshoot it myself or find a help from someone that knows.
I was also thinking if it’s a blown fuse then the power locks or the windows wouldn’t even work at all, so I suspect a broken wire or something

 

 

sounds like the issue is with the switch module in the door or maybe one of its associated harnesses. I would inspect the connectors that come out of the door in the driver kick area and the module itself for any obvious problems. The speaker thing could point more to a harness issue.

 

Or possibly, if an 8, the kick panel electrical gremlin. Been raining or wet roads??

 

Electrical Gremlins also apply to Evo 7 and 9 (not only 8), I can unfortunately tell from direct experience.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...s-how-fix.html

 

Hello everyone. New to the forum and would like to seek some assistance. i kidna have a similar problem here. 1 week ago, I noticed that my door wouldn't lock using the key fob. I later found out that the central switch wouldn't lock the driver door either. So here are the things I did so far, replaced and test driver actuator (working fine), check the White cable for continuity from ETACS to the actuator plug (working fine), replaced the central Switch (still the same problem. Just so you all know, all other 3 doors are locking and unlocking using the Key fob and the central switch. Also replaced the ETACS box still the same. I'm out of option, expect driving this car to the dealer and I know it will be hefty!

 

So, you replaced the driver's door lock actuator with a new one? I ask because the driver's door actuator gets the most use and is always the first to fail.

 

My actuator is working by placing a power source the motor actually runs. So my initial diagnostics is not the actuator.

 

Will it actuate the lock with your external power source or are you testing it out of the car?