The only engine to chassis ground I see is the one on the transmission casing. It’s on one of the bolts.

 

Is that one good and tight at the chassis and trans? There should be another ground wire from the Intake manifold to the chassis by where the strut tower bar bolts up in the middle.

 

Yes here they are. I remember I painted my trans when I pulled it off. I’ll prob go over as many grounds as I can and clean them. Was finally able to get the car started. It took a quick charge from oreyllis and jumper cables when I got home. I’ll try to take readings now. Prob redo the bat relocation. Oreyllis sells 2 gauge copper battery cables by the feet and copper connections. That should work right?

 

Ok with lights on, ac on full and fans on these are the readings.

alternator - 14.15v

battery - 13.73v

fuse box - 13.64

 

I'm sure their cables fine. If you painted the trans you might need to remove some paint where the ground cable makes contact. The other smaller ground doesn't look scorched from the pics so grounding probably isn't terrible. The other end of that cable still connects to the chassis on the strut tower?

 

Thats a lot of drop between alt and the fuse box. You should check to see how that connection was handled after the relocation. Good news is the alternator is probably good.

 

Yeah I have to check out what they did. After doing all these checks and car was running for about 45 min now the sob won’t turn on again. Just clicks. Jumper cables or not. I pulled plastics off steering column to look at ignition switch part that I replaced but it doesn’t move at all while cranking. I’m stumped.

 

Your connection from the battery to the starter sounds pretty suspect.

 

How does that work biggie? Does it go from battery straight to starter or does it go through fuse box? I took the battery to auto parts store and having them leave it on slow charger overnight. I’m thinking the starter is not getting enough juice. Something is also going on because battery lost some charge in 2 days. It’s either not being charged enough or something is killing it. Usually when there’s a draw you’ll see sparks when connecting negative cable to battery and it doesn’t happen with mine. What’s weird is one day I was out tuning and stopped, flashed the car and when tried to turn it on it would click. Had to put jumper cables and started right away. Almost seems like you say some issue with power to starter.

 

The way its wired from Mitsubishi is there is a wire that goes straight from the positive battery terminal to the starter. The factory wiring has the alternator, starter wire, chassis power, all going straight to the battery positive terminal. Obviously its not practical to do that with a relocation, so what I would do is run the 2 gauge to a distribution block under the hood where it connects to the three harnesses. The OEM evo X parts are often used to do this.

 

While i think your 4 gauge aluminum wire is undersized, you haven't always had these problems right? So most likely your current problem either has to do with cable termination (how the cable is crimped or connected), or loose/corroded connection somewhere. Since the alternator and battery have been eliminated as likely problems and all signs point to a connection problem.

 

Oh boy. Judging by the cheapness of the previous owner I’m scared to see what he did. I will tare into it tomorrow and post pics for a good laugh. I guess I’ll check all grounds and redo the wiring.

 

Well, there’s always been some type of electrical gremlin. Usually shows up when starting. If I would let the car sit for 2 weeks battery would die but never 2 days. I removed turbo timer due to this and only thing left is alarm. But as I said there’s no sparks when connecting negative battery terminal and with turbo timer there was.

 

Lead acid are spec'd to charge at over 14 volts. Chances are you aren't getting that much of a current charging the battery while driving and its not fully recharging.

 

Yeah then no way in hell its charging.