Notices
Evo General Discuss any generalized technical Evo related topics that may not fit into the other forums. Please do not post tech and rumor threads here.
Sponsored by: RavSpec - JDM Wheels Central

Diagnose issue - bad alternator?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 5, 2019, 12:05 PM
  #61  
Evolved Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
nor11384's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: tampa, fl
Posts: 1,131
Received 34 Likes on 33 Posts
Biggie can I use this without the post that it connects to? I’ve never seen it on an evo x so not sure where everything would connect to.
Old Jun 5, 2019, 02:54 PM
  #62  
Evolved Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
nor11384's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: tampa, fl
Posts: 1,131
Received 34 Likes on 33 Posts
So after checking the signal wire at the starter I realized it was getting .34v. I tried my old ignition switch that came factory on the car and started right up. The one I had on there I bought from stm a year ago and it went bad already wtf?
Old Jun 5, 2019, 03:21 PM
  #63  
EvoM Community Team Leader
 
Biggiesacks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: West Coast
Posts: 5,688
Received 704 Likes on 592 Posts
Originally Posted by nor11384
Biggie can I use this without the post that it connects to? I’ve never seen it on an evo x so not sure where everything would connect to.
Yah that would work if you wanted to come up with your own mounting solution. I believe STM sells the other parts that go with it too.

Originally Posted by nor11384
So after checking the signal wire at the starter I realized it was getting .34v. I tried my old ignition switch that came factory on the car and started right up. The one I had on there I bought from stm a year ago and it went bad already wtf?
that's unusual for a replacement to go bad, it is a super common problem though. That's great at least you got that figured out. Electrical gremlins can be such a pita.
Old Jun 5, 2019, 04:01 PM
  #64  
Evolved Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
nor11384's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: tampa, fl
Posts: 1,131
Received 34 Likes on 33 Posts
Yeah man for sure. I got the wire. I just need the junction box. I just need to know if that picture I posted of the evo x junction box is all I need? If I see how it connects to the wires I would be able to figure it out.
Old Jun 5, 2019, 05:18 PM
  #65  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
 
ProPilot04's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Holding over the VOR
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
Just to chime in before you say your ignition switch is bad, I wanted to ask if you're aware of the rotational issue they have? Sometimes they move juuust slightly when you turn the key and the key isn't able to turn enough and cause it all to make contact. This wouldn't be a bad switch, but the switch might not be affixed properly.

I also wanted to mention that I've had reeealllly strange electrical problems with ground issues (in fact, when I did my clutch, my intake manifold ground wire pulled out of one of the lugs and when driving in the rain one day it melted a good portion of my harness which caused all sorts of haywire). If the car is losing charge over 2 days or 2 weeks, you have a grounding issue somewhere for sure.

I used to hate electrics... but some deep breaths and focus on less than intuitive details will get you to the problem.

Also, keep that battery disconnected while parked in case something strange happens and it wants to self immolate.
Old Jun 5, 2019, 06:59 PM
  #66  
Evolved Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
nor11384's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: tampa, fl
Posts: 1,131
Received 34 Likes on 33 Posts
Originally Posted by ProPilot04
Just to chime in before you say your ignition switch is bad, I wanted to ask if you're aware of the rotational issue they have? Sometimes they move juuust slightly when you turn the key and the key isn't able to turn enough and cause it all to make contact. This wouldn't be a bad switch, but the switch might not be affixed properly.

I also wanted to mention that I've had reeealllly strange electrical problems with ground issues (in fact, when I did my clutch, my intake manifold ground wire pulled out of one of the lugs and when driving in the rain one day it melted a good portion of my harness which caused all sorts of haywire). If the car is losing charge over 2 days or 2 weeks, you have a grounding issue somewhere for sure.

I used to hate electrics... but some deep breaths and focus on less than intuitive details will get you to the problem.

Also, keep that battery disconnected while parked in case something strange happens and it wants to self immolate.

Thx man yeah i have the battery disconnected and def going to check all the grounds. I oredered the evo x junction box but i have to figure out how the hell to hook this all up. I bought all the wiring as well. Best thing would be to redo the whole battery relocation since they did a crap job. Im aware of the ignition switch issue. I actually tried to hold it in place to make sure it doesnt move while turning the key. I ended up installing my old ignition switch and it turns on every time. Its just hard to tighten that stupid bolt. Im going to try to find one that i can put a socket on it so i get better grip when tightening. Also, now that im messing with it would it be beneficial to use some of the leftover 2 gauge wire and replace some of the current grounds with this wire? Like the one on the intake manifold etc?
Old Jun 5, 2019, 07:51 PM
  #67  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
 
ProPilot04's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Holding over the VOR
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
2 gauge is too big for that ground. The motor will flex in the bay too much...
Old Jun 5, 2019, 08:06 PM
  #68  
Evolved Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
nor11384's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: tampa, fl
Posts: 1,131
Received 34 Likes on 33 Posts
Originally Posted by ProPilot04
2 gauge is too big for that ground. The motor will flex in the bay too much...

Well I have torque solution mounts but let’s say I get 4 gauge then? Will it benefit at all?
Old Jun 5, 2019, 08:20 PM
  #69  
EvoM Community Team Leader
 
Biggiesacks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: West Coast
Posts: 5,688
Received 704 Likes on 592 Posts
You could use that left over 2 gauge to ground the battery to the chassis. You could also re-use some of that aluminum 4 gauge to add engine to chassis grounds.

You have probably seen it, but this is the STM kit https://stmtuned.com/collections/mit...relocation-kit


What I don't know is if the factory cables will bolt straight up or if they need a little modification.

Last edited by Biggiesacks; Jun 5, 2019 at 08:29 PM.
Old Jun 5, 2019, 08:33 PM
  #70  
Evolved Member

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
nor11384's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: tampa, fl
Posts: 1,131
Received 34 Likes on 33 Posts
Yeah i just purchased that a couple hours ago. i think that would be the cleanest way just need to figure out which cable goes where since i dont have the factory stuff. Ive been reading a bunch of posts but none are very clear on it. So by adding grounds you mean just add another wire on top of where the current grounds are?
Old Jun 5, 2019, 08:39 PM
  #71  
EvoM Community Team Leader
 
Biggiesacks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: West Coast
Posts: 5,688
Received 704 Likes on 592 Posts
Originally Posted by nor11384
Yeah i just purchased that a couple hours ago. i think that would be the cleanest way just need to figure out which cable goes where since i dont have the factory stuff. Ive been reading a bunch of posts but none are very clear on it. So by adding grounds you mean just add another wire on top of where the current grounds are?
You can get creative with additional grounds. In places with existing grounds I would replace them with larger wire instead of doubling them up. There are a few places around the engine compartment where many devices ground to the chassis. Adding connects from those points to the engine would be good.




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:13 AM.