oxyigen

Hi guys,

I have 9, and the AC always not cold when I bought it new. Fast forward now, I did the double din conversion long time ago, and recently went into the dealership for the airbag recall for the 2nd time, but this time, they couldn't connect the AC wire properly, and told me there is no way I could've connected the first time.
I can still feel some tension when I turn the temp dial, but if I do turn into MAX AC, it shouldn't matter what temperature the wire was at right?

Since it's been 14 years, I decided to buy a recharge kit, I plugged it in, and it shows the PSI at 25 green zone. I proceeded and charge the entire can, and it only went up to 34 PSI in the blue zone, and AC is still just barely blowing cold air.

Should I do a second can? As far I can tell, there is no leaks. Does by not able to turn the temp. all the way to the cold side matters as well?

Thanks guy! Getting too hot in CA!

Fox_IX

I had the same issue, I had to clearance the sheet metal frame to allow the control cables to lay without getting twisted. Otherwise it'll work okay for the time being it just requires more force to move the knobs.

As for the recharge, what ambient temp was it when you read 25? You probably have a leak if it was low. You'll need to evacuate the system, repair the leak, then vacuum down and recharge. You can either do this yourself with a recovery machine/tank, harbor freight AC manifold set and a vacuum pump or just go to an AC shop, they'll take care of it.

If your AC has ever been serviced in the past it'll likely have tracer dye in the system already. You can use a blacklight flashlight to check the connections and you'll see pigment glowing anywhere there are leaks.

As for your low side pressure you want about 35-43 psi at 86F or 27.6-35 psi at 77F. The FSM has a table with pressures vs ambient temp. If your refrigerant level is good and you're not getting any cooling I'd make sure the compressor is running, and make sure clutch air gap is set properly.

Lumpy Sticks

iTrader: (3)

Oxigen- if it makes you feel any better, mine is about the same. It's been hot down here lately. Says 107 today! If I turn mine all the way to 4 and I am idling, it barely blows cold. 3 seems to do fine.

Fox - are those ac readings supposed to be at idle or like 2000 rpm? Does the fsm say what the high side should read? My ac system could use some work too...

Fox_IX

Idle, AC on, max cool, recirc, top vents only.
The FSM has both high and low, its on page 55-95, has the whole procedure along with tables.

Fox_IX

Also I just reinstalled AC, charged with Dupont Suva 134a and BG compressor oil and it gets uncomfortably cold with outside temp of 90.

Lumpy Sticks

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! I will have to download the fsm whenever I get internet back at my house and take a look. Pretty sure I have something going on even though my car has lower mileage. The psi readings just arent right.

Fox_IX

No problem, good luck!
Also make sure your manifold gauge set isn't leaking, the flares will leak if they have burrs

Lumpy Sticks

iTrader: (3)

Manifold set is not leaking for sure. It's new and have verified it works fine on 3 other ac rebuilds. I have actually left it under vac with the gauges connected over night with no drop. It's something else for sure

barneyb

The wire you mention I suppose is the cable to the blend door. Move the door one direction and it uncovers the heater core. In the other direction it uncovers the evaporator core. If the cable is not functioning then the door can be stuck in some position other than pure A/C.

The control cable would be the cheapest and easiest to fix so I suggest you or your mechanic investigating that first.

Fox_IX

This is a separate issue with the HVAC relocation. It's common for the cable to bind in it's new position as it puts alot of tension on the cable of you don't clearance for it. Replacing the cable does not resolve the issue, unfortunately.