2005 evo crankwalk (need options)
Go ahead and order from https://www.mitsubishidirectparts.com/ but just because it says it is in stock does not mean it really is in stock. I just ordered a part from them that said it was in stock. But then I got an email saying it was not in stock, and that they do not know what parts are not available until some one orders it.
Hello everyone, so I'm pretty new to these forums, but basically I brought my car into a shop because it was stalling out and making a rattling noise (thinking it was a throw out bearing). The shop I took it too (general automotive shop, not familiar with evo's or anything along those lines) said I have crankwalk. They showed me a video of my pulley and it showed it moving in and out showing the crankshaft play, i've already accepted the fact its probably crankwalk but of course I just want to hear the opinions of people with more knowledge with this before I move forward. This car has a BOV, a manual boost controller, and in an old picture it showed it had an ACT clutch (I have no clue which one) but it didnt feel aggressive at all, I've heard an aggressive clutch can cause crankwalk.
I'm pretty disappointed this happened to me because I have had this car a little over a year and have not driven it that much because I was in the military traveling, and then when I got out I was traveling for work even more. My questions I have, which keep in mind I'm not shooting for crazy numbers (MAYBE 400-500hp in the future) and would like to save a little money but STILL do it right, IF possible, are:
- Is the block most likely trashed? If so can I really find out dropping my oil pan and looking for shavings, and cutting open my oil filter for shavings as well
- If the block is trashed, do I replace just the short block? (car has 127k on it) or do replace the long block
- Where do I look to find a short or long block if needed to replace, I have only looked on a facebook evo page
- If the block is salvageable, what parts do you guys recommend using to replace it to prevent from further happening?
I am very uneducated when it comes to evo's so please cut me some slack, I'm dying to get this car running again, its not my daily but I definitely want it up again. A couple shops have quoted me 8k in Arizona, to rebuild the entire motor if the block does not need to be replaced which im just going to assume it does, is there a budget for 5k, 3k?
Sorry about the encyclopedia post but I want to figure out what exactly what I will be doing very soon, thank you for the input!
I'm pretty disappointed this happened to me because I have had this car a little over a year and have not driven it that much because I was in the military traveling, and then when I got out I was traveling for work even more. My questions I have, which keep in mind I'm not shooting for crazy numbers (MAYBE 400-500hp in the future) and would like to save a little money but STILL do it right, IF possible, are:
- Is the block most likely trashed? If so can I really find out dropping my oil pan and looking for shavings, and cutting open my oil filter for shavings as well
- If the block is trashed, do I replace just the short block? (car has 127k on it) or do replace the long block
- Where do I look to find a short or long block if needed to replace, I have only looked on a facebook evo page
- If the block is salvageable, what parts do you guys recommend using to replace it to prevent from further happening?
I am very uneducated when it comes to evo's so please cut me some slack, I'm dying to get this car running again, its not my daily but I definitely want it up again. A couple shops have quoted me 8k in Arizona, to rebuild the entire motor if the block does not need to be replaced which im just going to assume it does, is there a budget for 5k, 3k?
Sorry about the encyclopedia post but I want to figure out what exactly what I will be doing very soon, thank you for the input!
You can't know the extent of the damage until the engine is taken apart. You will most likely be able to reuse the cylinder head assembly, turbo, oil filter housing, and oil pan if cleaned properly. You can likely reuse all sensors and pullys outside the engine as well. The short block, oil pump front cover, oil cooler, and lines should all be replaced. I don't know your mechanical background, but if you have the time you could take the approach of taking out the crank, rods, and pistons to see if they are reusable (Crank is probably toast). This could save you a thousand. If the thrust bearing has not been warn all the way through to the crank girdle, you could get away with reusing the bare block with a re-hone of the main bearing and cylinder bores.
There used to be longblocks on ebay for under 4k. Where you can just have the entire long block replaced and cross your fingers the non-specialty shop gets it right (i.e. https://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Mitsubi...cAAOSw8nFesaEl). Here is brand new a dealer shortblock for less. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-...4AAOSwjVVVv6r-)
If you have the space, time, and tools to do it yourself you will save tens of thousands of dollars over the course of your car hobby career. Otherwise shops will hang on to your beloved car for months as they struggle to get it put back together and charge you an arm and a dick to do anything.
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rs03evo
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Aug 30, 2010 08:46 PM








