Looking to buy an 8 or 9
Looking to buy an 8 or 9
New to this forum and hoping to get some advice on buying my first Evo. Had an RX8 for a while and then a G37, and it's finally time to upgrade to my dream car.
I found this 8 for $24k with 72k miles. https://www.jdpower.com/detail/2005/...ah86d35u026130
Any tips on what I should be looking for besides the basics?
Thanks in advance!
AM
I found this 8 for $24k with 72k miles. https://www.jdpower.com/detail/2005/...ah86d35u026130
Any tips on what I should be looking for besides the basics?
Thanks in advance!
AM
Hello & welcome to the boards @adammac
Not feeling that one. Theres more going on than what the pics show. Looks like an eastern car & at this point rust / corrosion damage is key when inspecting a 16 year old car that may have been driving regularly in the snow
No engine pics but its been touched (modded) as all of our cars have. Would look for a more southern car that has not seen the di-icers used during the winter
Cheers, Joe
Not feeling that one. Theres more going on than what the pics show. Looks like an eastern car & at this point rust / corrosion damage is key when inspecting a 16 year old car that may have been driving regularly in the snow
No engine pics but its been touched (modded) as all of our cars have. Would look for a more southern car that has not seen the di-icers used during the winter
Cheers, Joe
Car is modded to some extent, bumper cover color doesn’t match other panels and the badge is 1/2 black, some good wear on the drivers seat, Brownbo faded calipers, car is lowered but (on what)????
Those things alone w/o going over the car for myself they may be asking a bit much. I say grab the vin and run a CARFAX or the like report on the car, they aren’t full proof. But will let you know of any reported accidents and possible dealer visits.
If you can get them down 5k or more may not be that bad.
You’ll want to check for rust where the rear subframe bolts up into the unibody then back to rear of car. Also check the front subframe for any through rust, but most of all drive it the car should ride like it’s on rails any shimmy, shake, pulsing or spongy brakes is more bargaining power on your side. Row through the gears make sure no grinds, make sure the idle is rock solid in all situations.
oh and if you’re worried about emissions inspection in your area make sure the car has a catalytic converter or something that resembles one if your county performs emissions visual inspections
If you see rust in any rear subframe mounting areas run
Those things alone w/o going over the car for myself they may be asking a bit much. I say grab the vin and run a CARFAX or the like report on the car, they aren’t full proof. But will let you know of any reported accidents and possible dealer visits.
If you can get them down 5k or more may not be that bad.
You’ll want to check for rust where the rear subframe bolts up into the unibody then back to rear of car. Also check the front subframe for any through rust, but most of all drive it the car should ride like it’s on rails any shimmy, shake, pulsing or spongy brakes is more bargaining power on your side. Row through the gears make sure no grinds, make sure the idle is rock solid in all situations.
oh and if you’re worried about emissions inspection in your area make sure the car has a catalytic converter or something that resembles one if your county performs emissions visual inspections
If you see rust in any rear subframe mounting areas run
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