06 Evo MR 11PSI Boost Cut / Engine Swap Question
06 Evo MR 11PSI Boost Cut / Engine Swap Question
I currently have a 2006 Evo MR, but unfortunately had purchased it with a spun rod bearing and needed a new motor. I found a good low mileage Evo 7 complete motor to swap in for a good price, which the shop did everything beautifully.
The only issues I'm having are since it's a Evo 7 motor, the MITEC isn't hooked up and disabled through ECU. I'm not exactly sure what all the shop modified on the ECU to make it work, but they set my max boost to 11PSI since the car wasn't fully tuned as a precaution.
Until I'm able to get a real proper tune, I just want to make sure the car is running like it should to be safe... I installed AEM Boost and AFR gauges which currently reading - 10 to - 14/hg vacuum at idle, is that what it's supposed to be at? I believe I might have a small boost leak... But previously my idle was sitting around -14/-16hg. Is this normal? Or what issues do you think I might be looking at so I know exactly what to check.
My AFR reads around 15.2 at idle kinds bounces up and down and reads 11-12 WOT and 14.5ish when cruising. I believe those are pretty accurate correct?
Im also curious that if I disconnect my battery for 15+ minutes to reset the mapping, would that cause the MITEC and everything the shop disabled to prevent limp mode and any CEL to reset also? I don't have evoscan or anything yet, but I'm working on getting it soon. I just don't want to mess up anything the shop did and prevent my car from running properly or at all..until then lol.
Sorry if my post is a bit confusing, everything is kinda scrambled in my head and in trying to explain everything at once 😂😂. Let me know if you have any questions to help better diagnose and I'll answer to the best of my knowledge.
The only issues I'm having are since it's a Evo 7 motor, the MITEC isn't hooked up and disabled through ECU. I'm not exactly sure what all the shop modified on the ECU to make it work, but they set my max boost to 11PSI since the car wasn't fully tuned as a precaution.
Until I'm able to get a real proper tune, I just want to make sure the car is running like it should to be safe... I installed AEM Boost and AFR gauges which currently reading - 10 to - 14/hg vacuum at idle, is that what it's supposed to be at? I believe I might have a small boost leak... But previously my idle was sitting around -14/-16hg. Is this normal? Or what issues do you think I might be looking at so I know exactly what to check.
My AFR reads around 15.2 at idle kinds bounces up and down and reads 11-12 WOT and 14.5ish when cruising. I believe those are pretty accurate correct?
Im also curious that if I disconnect my battery for 15+ minutes to reset the mapping, would that cause the MITEC and everything the shop disabled to prevent limp mode and any CEL to reset also? I don't have evoscan or anything yet, but I'm working on getting it soon. I just don't want to mess up anything the shop did and prevent my car from running properly or at all..until then lol.
Sorry if my post is a bit confusing, everything is kinda scrambled in my head and in trying to explain everything at once 😂😂. Let me know if you have any questions to help better diagnose and I'll answer to the best of my knowledge.
Owned another 06 MR stock before this one, but ended up getting rid of it. Isn't really much of a noticeable power difference between them and I figured I'll eventually build my motor anyways so it didn't bother me.
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