When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Evo GeneralDiscuss any generalized technical Evo related topics that may not fit into the other forums.
Please do not post tech and rumor threads here.
Sponsored by: RavSpec - JDM Wheels Central
So I drive a '02 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII GT-A, when ever I put my vehicle in drive and at idle the vehicle vibrates and at times the idle would jump up and down once and a while and at cold start the vehicle almost die when the idle drop, I did heard my exhaust making noise for a few seconds. I checked the engine mounts and I don't see any issues or problems with them, I changed the spark plugs, clean the throttle body, iacv, and maf sensor, I also had the vehicle retune to Canadian 94 octane. I can't be sure what else that could be the problem any ideas?
Any time you have idle issues, a boost leak test is the first thing to check. If you havent had the car long, an engine health check you also be good to check such as compression test and leakdown check. An A/F gauge also helps, if you dont have one, its a good idea to install one.
I just completed the compression test, I only warm the vehicle up for 5 mins once it got to temperature, I did not open the throttle when turning the key over I didn't realized that step until I read one of the forums, I have the photo in order from #1 to #4 it ranges anywhere from 153-158psi, #1: 158psi #2: 156psi #3: 153psi #4: 155psi. I'm not sure what's the average psi rating these motors should be to confirm the engine is heathy.
Ive found different brand gauges read different PSI. But its a good sign that all 4 are colse to the same.
Did you get a chance to do a boost leak check?
There are some threads about people having idle issues due to failing idle control valve. I would read up on that as well. Having an auto trans might make it more challenging to find the issue.
I haven't done a leak test because I'm not sure what I would need and where to start. I've checked my iacv not to long ago and it looks in good shape but can't tell if there's anything wrong with it. I'll definitely take a look
The biggest challenge in a boost leak check is having a compressor that will supply enough airflow. There is several how-to threads. I made my own tester or you can buy one but itll be useless without a compressor. Bottom line is you can't skip any diagnostic steps as basic as they might be otherwise you might be wasting time and money. Worst case, check what you can. If nothing else, a competent shop you trust should get to the bottom of your idle problem.