View Poll Results: % of people who have had problems with their evo's?
I have had no problems



444
63.07%
Yes I have had problems



198
28.13%
Boy have I had problems



62
8.81%
Voters: 704. You may not vote on this poll
% of evo owners who have had problems?
[QUOTE=plokivos]
Feels like it's not going fast enough
Well aparently I don't know anything about anything (including how to spell), but...the other day I was driving up a bridge , I look down, I was going just over 120! I thought I was only going maybe 80
Feels like it's not going fast enough
Well aparently I don't know anything about anything (including how to spell), but...the other day I was driving up a bridge , I look down, I was going just over 120! I thought I was only going maybe 80
15,500 miles new tires new air filter new sound system and added RS bar for rear stability.
no problems clutch only slipped 1 time ever (I was trying to get all 4 wheels to break loose)
I do need to get a bottle of touch up paint though be cause I got a few lil rock dings on my poor baby
no problems clutch only slipped 1 time ever (I was trying to get all 4 wheels to break loose)
I do need to get a bottle of touch up paint though be cause I got a few lil rock dings on my poor baby
18k
clutch, tranny, t-case w/no problems.
Only problem.
Cheap paint, p0300 code comes and goes, mmm money gone just maintaining this sucker.
New tires, pads, and I change oil every 2000 miles.
clutch, tranny, t-case w/no problems.
Only problem.
Cheap paint, p0300 code comes and goes, mmm money gone just maintaining this sucker.
New tires, pads, and I change oil every 2000 miles.
21,000 and no problems at all.
First oil change done at 800 miles.
First tranny and differential gear oil change at 5,000 miles.
Oil changes have been at Pit Pass intervals after that.
Transmission and differentials were changes at 17,000 miles.
Stock tires with about 50% life left.
Stock brake pads with about 50% life left.
Stock clutch.
Never missed a shift. Never grinded a gear. Never launched the car. Never coasted in neutral to a stop using only the brakes to slow me. Always idled before shut town. Always idle before take off. Always speed matched between gear shifts. Always been fully engaged in a gear before going WOT. Rarely taken around corners without any throttle applied.
Despite what many of you probably think, this car is driven hard EVERY time I get in it. I have put every mile on the car except for the original 8 that were on it when I picked it up at the dealership. The only think I can't explain is how my brakes and tires are holding up, especially as hard as I drive it around corners.
Power Mods since 5,000 miles:
Burchur Racing manual boost controler set at 19.5 PSI.
Buschur Racing MAS intake pipe with conical air filter.
APEXi S-AFC 2 with Buschur Racing baseline settings tweaked to match my area a bit better.
These cars can handle being driven hard. You just have to know how to draw the line between driving aggressively and driving abusively. If you go around shock loading your transmission at every downshift, launching the car under high RPM's, trying to rush the car through the gears too fast, etc., then you will break something. Just be smart with how you drive it. If you do this, anything that breaks will be covered by your warranty.
First oil change done at 800 miles.
First tranny and differential gear oil change at 5,000 miles.
Oil changes have been at Pit Pass intervals after that.
Transmission and differentials were changes at 17,000 miles.
Stock tires with about 50% life left.
Stock brake pads with about 50% life left.
Stock clutch.
Never missed a shift. Never grinded a gear. Never launched the car. Never coasted in neutral to a stop using only the brakes to slow me. Always idled before shut town. Always idle before take off. Always speed matched between gear shifts. Always been fully engaged in a gear before going WOT. Rarely taken around corners without any throttle applied.
Despite what many of you probably think, this car is driven hard EVERY time I get in it. I have put every mile on the car except for the original 8 that were on it when I picked it up at the dealership. The only think I can't explain is how my brakes and tires are holding up, especially as hard as I drive it around corners.
Power Mods since 5,000 miles:
Burchur Racing manual boost controler set at 19.5 PSI.
Buschur Racing MAS intake pipe with conical air filter.
APEXi S-AFC 2 with Buschur Racing baseline settings tweaked to match my area a bit better.
These cars can handle being driven hard. You just have to know how to draw the line between driving aggressively and driving abusively. If you go around shock loading your transmission at every downshift, launching the car under high RPM's, trying to rush the car through the gears too fast, etc., then you will break something. Just be smart with how you drive it. If you do this, anything that breaks will be covered by your warranty.
Originally Posted by 90GSX-03EVO
Never coasted in neutral to a stop using only the brakes to slow me.
When I come to a stop I never downshift lower then second gear to slow the car, no matter what! And its a progressive downshift... meaning if I'm in 5th and coming to a stop I'll hit 4th, then 3rd, then 2nd, then neutral and always rev matching for a smooth transition between gears. Coming to a stop I'm always in neutral with my foot off the clutch.
Originally Posted by AlwaysinBoost
seems like you know the correct way to drive a car but I'm curious why you wouldn't want to use your brakes to slow the car to a stop. I assume you mean your downshifting to let the compression of the engine and drivetrain friction to slow you down but wouldn't you rather replace your break pads then your clutch?
When I come to a stop I never downshift lower then second gear to slow the car, no matter what! And its a progressive downshift... meaning if I'm in 5th and coming to a stop I'll hit 4th, then 3rd, then 2nd, then neutral and always rev matching for a smooth transition between gears. Coming to a stop I'm always in neutral with my foot off the clutch.
When I come to a stop I never downshift lower then second gear to slow the car, no matter what! And its a progressive downshift... meaning if I'm in 5th and coming to a stop I'll hit 4th, then 3rd, then 2nd, then neutral and always rev matching for a smooth transition between gears. Coming to a stop I'm always in neutral with my foot off the clutch.
If I'm in 5th, I wait until 5th gear is turning about 2,000 RPMs on the motor, then I blip and downshift to 3rd. I keep it in 3rd while braking until 3rd also gets to about 2,000 RPM's and from there on, I am pretty much slow enough that it is just a coasting roll. Third gear is such a long gear, I use it for the majority of the engine braking. As far as replacing brake pads over clutches. My brake pads are at about 50% and my clutch feels like day one...Well, day one after the 1,000 mile initial clutch break-in. I've got over 21,000 miles and haven't had to replace either of them. As long as the drivetrain isn't under load (ie: load caused by the engine due to acceleration) you won't do any real damage to your clutch by speed-matched downshifting. In extreme circumstances, I could see some clutch wear happen if you were to severely shock load the transmission, but doing this isn't the smartest thing to do, either.


