A Few Notes:
First off, the install on the Lancer Evolution is not that hard. But with a few tips it can be done with great results. The hood is rated at a level 3 (out of 5), and the bumper is a little more difficult, but still rated at a 3. The regular Lancer is also rated at a 3 for both the bumper and hood. I would recommend if you're going to attempt to apply the film by yourself, remember be patient, and read these instructions VERY carefully, a few times over. If you make a mistake, you can always pull the film back after it has been put down, just use lots of solution. Remember YOU CANNOT USE TOO MUCH SOLUTION. In fact keep it soaked. You use the squeegee to remove the solution out from under the film to make it stick down. The adhesive is pressure sensitive, so using moderate pressure on the squeegee to pull out the solution from under the film. Stretching is needed at times, as the kits are cut too short some times, to make it fit properly. Be sure to overlap strokes to avoid trapping air or solution under the material. Look carefully to avoid trapping water under the film, as this can cause bubbles. The temperature should be warmer as it makes the film easier to work with, it just makes it easier to install. Always install in a closed place like a garage, you do not want anything getting trapped under the film.


Squeegee Technique:
Use both hands when possible, and pull the squeegee towards you, don't push. You only push the squeegee when you are getting rid of lifting or fingers that result when the film isn’t sticking down on edges.


Solutions:
Slip Solution - mix water in spray bottle and between 4-7 drops of baby shampoo. It really depends on the climate and the temperature; you want to use enough soap to make the kit moveable so you can slide it or stretch it if needed, but not enough to produce suds. Remember this solution is used to make the film moveable and for it to slide.

Alcohol Solution - Mix 70% water and 30% Isopropyl Alcohol. You do not want to use too much alcohol solution as it can burn the adhesive ruining the film. If you stick to 70%/30% you should be fine. Remember this solution is used to make the film stick down.



Install Tools:
Squeegee (Yellow)
2 Spray Bottles
Baby shampoo (Do not substitute other soaps)
Isopropyl rubbing alcohol (70% solution)
Non-Scratch Absorbent Cloths
3M Adhesive Remover


Pre Clean:
Remove any wax on the surface with the 3M Adhesive Remover and a soft cloth. Road tar, grease, oil, silicon and dirt should be removed by spraying the surface to be covered with the Alcohol solution and wiping with a soft cloth. Verify size and placement of all parts before removing liner. Clean hands thoroughly, even the smallest amount of dirt on your hands will transfer to the adhesive, causing an undesirable appearance. Also, always keep your fingers wet to prevent adhesive from sticking to fingers, and do not needlessly handle the adhesive side of the material. It will be necessary to handle the adhesive side of the material occasionally, but make any contact with the adhesive as brief as possible. This is important, as fingerprints will show through the material.


Apply Hood Kit:
1. Wet the hood thoroughly with the slip solution. Then, with the material rolled up, keep fingers wet while pulling a small amount of the shield away from the liner on one end. With the rest of the kit rolled up in one hand, use your other hand to hold the end of the material that you have pulled loose from the liner down on the appropriate end of the hood. Then, slowly begin to pull the liner towards the opposite end of the hood, forcing the material to be rolled out on to the hood.

2. Now that you have the material laid out on the surface, it will be necessary to apply more of the slip solution between the hood and the material to allow the kit to be easily positioned on the hood. Lift the material from the hood one side at a time to spray the material and the hood with the slip solution. It may require a bit of gentle tugging to lift the material from the hood, but care must be taken not to excessively stretch the material. Also, spray the top of the kit with the slip solution prior to positioning the kit, so that the squeegee will not drag the kit out of position.

3. Now that the material moves freely on the hood, you may easily position the kit into place. The kit should be centered with about a 1/8" - 1/16" gap between the front edge of the hood and the kit. Since the Evo hood comes to a point in the center, this is where you center the kit.

4. Once you have the kit in place, make several small vertical strokes with the squeegee in the very center of the hood until you have an area 3-4" wide from top to bottom that is free of the solution. The shield is now "anchored" to the paint in the center and will not move freely, which means that you do not have to worry about the kit sliding out of place.



5. Now that the material moves freely on the hood, you may easily position the kit into place. The kit should be centered with about a 1/8" - 1/16" gap between the front edge of the hood and the kit. Since the Evo hood comes to a point in the center, this is where you center the kit.

6. Once you have the kit in place, make several small vertical strokes with the squeegee in the very center of the hood until you have an area 3-4" wide from top to bottom that is free of the solution. The shield is now "anchored" to the paint in the center and will not move freely, which means that you do not have to worry about the kit sliding out of place.

7. Now that the material is anchored in the center, lift one end of the material back to the point at which the material has adhered, and spray the adhesive side of the material and the hood with the alcohol/water solution. Spray enough of this solution to wash out any slip solution that was under the material. This is done to promote quick adhesion and to help prevent the material from lifting back up around the edges after you have squeegeed an area.
8. Lay the material back down on the hood taking care to ensure that the product is lying straight and flat. Check to see that there is still about an eighth of an inch gap between the front edge of the hood and the kit. Also, make sure that you keep the top surface of the kit wet so that your squeegee will slide easily over the material. If this is not done, you may scratch the film, showing swirl marks on the film. Please note that when using the alcohol/water solution, the material will dry very quickly, so it will be necessary to work quickly to achieve the desired appearance.

9. From the center of the area that is now free of slip solution, make a horizontal pass with your squeegee to the edge of the hood. Then, starting back in the center, make short, upward, overlapping strokes from the middle to the top edge moving toward the end of the hood. Now, do the same with downward strokes from the middle to the bottom edge until you reach the end of the hood. Keep in mind that firm pressure is needed, in order to avoid leaving water or air bubbles trapped underneath the material. Especially on the top part of the kit, where the hood goes up into the vent. Make sure no bubbles develop here.

10. If any area around the edges has lifted back up, you should wrap a paper towel around your squeegee and go over the edges again. This will absorb the moisture around the edges that interferes with adhesion.

11. Repeat steps 5 through 8 for the opposite side of the hood.


Apply Fenders:
1. For the smaller fender pieces, you can use the alcohol/water solution alone to apply the part. It is usually best to start by lining up the upper edge of the piece with the edge of the fender, while also ensuring that the front edge is about an eighth of an inch away from the edge as well. Line up the hood kit with the fender pieces.


2. Make a very gentle narrow pass with the squeegee along the upper edge of the piece. Don't press too hard on the squeegee when making the first pass or you will drag the material out of place with the squeegee. Then, as the material begins to adhere to the paint, you may use increasingly firmer strokes until all the alcohol/water solution is removed from beneath the upper edge of the material.

3. Once the material is anchored at the top, you should gently pull the bottom edge down with your fingers while making sure that the adhesive is thoroughly wet with the alcohol/water solution. Then, while pulling downward on the material, make a firm pass with the squeegee from the top edge all the way through the bottom.

4. Finish up by making sure all pieces are lined up and are set.


Care Instructions:
No special care is necessary for your kit once installed. You may wash and wax it just as you do the rest of your car. You may experience a wax build up along the hood lines and other kit edges. Use a Q-tip or a soft brush to gently wipe away excess wax. Swirl marks can be buffed out with a light coat of wax or 3M-swirl remover. When using high-pressure sprayers, do not place the nozzle directly against the edge of the kit, or lifting may occur. Avoid picking at the edges or corners. Irreparable lifting of the material will result. Because of the clear coat the 3M film has, it much more durable and will last longer, as the other films need to more maintenance on them, due to them not having a clear coat. Let it sit in the sun for a day or 2 after the install as it will set the film better and it will remove any moisture under the film.











A copy of this is available in PDF @ http://www.ricochetguard.com/evo/clearbra_install.pdf

 

Nice write up!

 

thanks

 

This is definitely NOT easy on the EVo, i saw a tech doing it and it was a PITA to stretch the bumper to fit correctly. I left it for the professional and it came out AWESOME....

 

Very nice write up indeed

 

well it depends, i just redid my hood, took me under 10 min, i'm a professional installer, but still dont be intimidated

truthfully there is not that much stretching on the hood, it also depends which kit it is.

For xpel, there is not much stretching. It pretty much lines up. There is a little but not much to worry about

now the bumper is different, I dont reccommend doing this yourself.

 

Moderators do you want to make this a sticky on the main page?

 

what about buying a roll of the 3m clear bra say 12-18" wide and 8+ feet long and doing it that way cause u wouldnt need to stretch it just like it up and raxor off the extra correct?


evoisdream

 

Its not that easy. This stuff is a ***** to cut with a sharp razor. The Best way is to get the kit cut already. Oh and good luck trying to do it yourself, it is no easy task.

 

great write up, thanks!

 

lol well i never said i was gonna do it was just curious im pretty sure ill jsut fork over the 300$ for one o well

 

yea... its not that easy, you can try it.. but its so much less hassle to have a pre cut kit, your talking 1/4 of the time for computer cut kit that fits perfectly instead of a hand cut one that is not... perfect

 

yeah i have a local shop that does them for 300 whole front bumper hood fenders and mirros for 300..... so i think ill go that route

 

Hey, Read that, it looks pretty hard to install. But I'm getting the same stuff put on by a local body shop. He's ordering the film directly from 3M so it's going to be about 1/2 the price. I'll let you guys know as soon as he gets the film in and on my car.

 

I would agree that it is not as easy as it looks. My thought is that for the money I've spent on my car already, what's a few hundred more to have it done correctly.