How to Install Hallman EVo RX PRO
Apr 18, 2005, 03:11 PM
#32
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It's fixed. I got a big smile on my face. I disconected everything and bought some heavy duty hose clamps. I tightened everything down, put it all back together, and took it for a test drive and WOW! I got my baby back. I don't want to sound like a total idiot but I might have had the boost controler set up bass ackwards.
May 5, 2005, 08:10 PM
#35
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Finally got that SOB. I had to remove the strut bar and a bunch of other ****.. I'm pretty good at putting/removing lines from the wastegate/turbo now though.. I only remove the intake box.
May 14, 2005, 02:32 AM
#36
well i just got mine today and installed, but only get up to 1.28 bar 
, i wonder what i did wrong?, used the BOV line method, the only clamps i used were on the wastegate cap nipple, and the actuator. should i use ties/clamps on all the connections?
, i wonder what i did wrong?, used the BOV line method, the only clamps i used were on the wastegate cap nipple, and the actuator. should i use ties/clamps on all the connections?
May 30, 2005, 03:02 PM
#42
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Forget posting PICs, check this link out!! Finally a how to on where to mount the cabin remote!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/howto.html
http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/howto.html
May 30, 2005, 03:33 PM
#43
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Yeah if you want to cut your boot :\ I drilled a hole and mine fits good inside the cubby hole area... but it's kind of at an angle. That cable is a pain in the *** but it's more than worth the effort.
Jun 1, 2005, 03:52 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by burningmoney97
Here are the pros and cons of both hook-ups
1. Hooking it up the compressor outlet nipple:
A. This way gives you less spikes but slower spool up.
B. It does not seem to give repeatable boost. It seems
to fluctuate more with the temperature.
C. Boost seems to be harder to control below 15 psi or
above 22 psi. Almost everyone who wrote me
said this.
D. It is easier to hook up this way. No cutting any
boost lines. Plus the lines are kept shorter.
(Thus the less spikes).
2. Hooking it to the hose between the BOV and the intake:
A. This way seems to give slightly faster spool up than
the other way.
B. It gives more repeatable boost. It doesn't seem to
fluctuate as much with temperature differences.
C. The boost seems to be more controllable down to
stock turbo levels. (Like down to 7 or 8 psi for a 1G
with a stock 14B turbo).
D. It is more work to hook up. You have to cut the hose
between the BOV and intake and tee it in. (Not
that this is hard, its just an extra step so I put it
in here)
E. Both Hallman and Extreme tell you to do it this way
1. Hooking it up the compressor outlet nipple:
A. This way gives you less spikes but slower spool up.
B. It does not seem to give repeatable boost. It seems
to fluctuate more with the temperature.
C. Boost seems to be harder to control below 15 psi or
above 22 psi. Almost everyone who wrote me
said this.
D. It is easier to hook up this way. No cutting any
boost lines. Plus the lines are kept shorter.
(Thus the less spikes).
2. Hooking it to the hose between the BOV and the intake:
A. This way seems to give slightly faster spool up than
the other way.
B. It gives more repeatable boost. It doesn't seem to
fluctuate as much with temperature differences.
C. The boost seems to be more controllable down to
stock turbo levels. (Like down to 7 or 8 psi for a 1G
with a stock 14B turbo).
D. It is more work to hook up. You have to cut the hose
between the BOV and intake and tee it in. (Not
that this is hard, its just an extra step so I put it
in here)
E. Both Hallman and Extreme tell you to do it this way
Now it is time to hook up the vacuum lines from the boost source and the wastegate actuator to the Hallman boost control valve. It is much easier to access the boost source and wastegate actuator if you remove the fan from the radiator. This is a bit difficult to get out of the engine bay. You have to remove a portion of the upper intercooler pipe to have enough room to get the fan out of the car. Make sure that you have enough room to pull it out so that you do not damage the radiator.
The picture is labeled so that you can see where the lines should be hooked up so that the boost controller functions properly. The line that is labeled "A" is your boost source line and needs to be connected to the input of the Hallman valve. The line that is labeled "B" is your wastegate actuator line and needs to be connected to the output of the Hallman valve. (Click on the picture for a close-up).
At this point you are ready to put the car back together. Once you have double checked everything it will be time to set the boost. Start with the Hallman boost control valve adjusted to stock boost. make sure that the knob it turned all of the way counter-clockwise. Drive the car and monitor your boost with an aftermarket boost gauge. Start turning the knob clockwise a whole turn. Check the boost again and repeat the above steps until the desired level is reached.
The picture is labeled so that you can see where the lines should be hooked up so that the boost controller functions properly. The line that is labeled "A" is your boost source line and needs to be connected to the input of the Hallman valve. The line that is labeled "B" is your wastegate actuator line and needs to be connected to the output of the Hallman valve. (Click on the picture for a close-up).
At this point you are ready to put the car back together. Once you have double checked everything it will be time to set the boost. Start with the Hallman boost control valve adjusted to stock boost. make sure that the knob it turned all of the way counter-clockwise. Drive the car and monitor your boost with an aftermarket boost gauge. Start turning the knob clockwise a whole turn. Check the boost again and repeat the above steps until the desired level is reached.
Jun 27, 2005, 01:35 AM
#45
Originally Posted by petersa9
Forget posting PICs, check this link out!! Finally a how to on where to mount the cabin remote!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/howto.html
http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/howto.html
I had to figure it out all that the hard way with trial and error.
damn. lol