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How to remove / replace your spark plugs

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Old May 6, 2007 | 11:37 PM
  #61  
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From: cali
Originally Posted by evolutionated
I have done everything that was told... My engine is running very rough now, i'm on the NGK 8s and I've gone back to the originals but it's still the same way. Something I may have done incorrectly is connect the ground cable before the positive cable to the battery when I was done.

What may this have caused, it my computer stuffed?

my car is doing the same thing it was doing it with the bpr7es so i switched to 8's and it still does it what is going on
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Old May 7, 2007 | 02:44 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by evolutionated
I have done everything that was told... My engine is running very rough now, i'm on the NGK 8s and I've gone back to the originals but it's still the same way. Something I may have done incorrectly is connect the ground cable before the positive cable to the battery when I was done.

What may this have caused, it my computer stuffed?
check to make sure all your spark plug wires are securely connected and that the proper gap on the plug is used
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Old Jul 4, 2007 | 05:32 AM
  #63  
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pictures are back up
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 01:14 PM
  #64  
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just so you know that tool you are using "the grappler like tool" is commonly known as "chinese fingers" BUT a spark plug socket is the proper tool to use..
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 08:45 AM
  #65  
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great writeup this is definitely a must-have for us noobs! =]
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 04:35 AM
  #66  
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updated with the gap differences taken from the manuals
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Old Sep 1, 2007 | 11:38 AM
  #67  
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Splendid write-up on changing the plugs. I would add: Whenever you remove or replace the sparkplugs, coat the threads with anti-seize compound...on the threads only. Be clean and precise about it, don't goop it on.

The reason is that the compound will make removal of the plug easier in the future, and keep the corrosion at bay if water somehow gets into the area.

A good preventative measure that will save you big $ if you strip or crack a plug down there.
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Old Sep 19, 2007 | 04:47 PM
  #68  
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OK so I changed my plugs today with the BPR7ES gapped at 0.026". Took it for a ride just now and when I put it in neutral, say when coming up to a stop light, the idle drops to around 600 RPM for a few seconds then comes back up to 1100 where it should be and always stayed before today. Also, I had the BR7ES prior to running these BPR7ES but I dont see how that would effect idle. I of course see how plugs themselves can since they make the pistons fire but not sure what to look for here. Any thoughts on this guys???

Last edited by TURBevO8; Sep 19, 2007 at 08:06 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 05:16 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by TURBevO8
OK so I changed my plugs today with the BPR7ES gapped at 0.026". Took it for a ride just now and when I put it in neutral, say when coming up to a stop light, the idle drops to around 600 RPM for a few seconds then comes back up to 1100 where it should be and always stayed before today. Also, I had the BR7ES prior to running these BPR7ES but I dont see how that would effect idle. I of course see how plugs themselves can since they make the pistons fire but not sure what to look for here. Any thoughts on this guys???
Interesting. I am going to be changing my BR7ES out to put in the BPR7ES's in tomorrow. I will post a reply to let you know how this affects my idle...maybe give you a pointer if I come across anything..GO PITT!
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 05:20 PM
  #70  
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From: VA
very good write up.
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Old Jan 31, 2008 | 03:48 PM
  #71  
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Nice write up, did mine earlier this week in less than 30 minutes. Next time it'll only take me 15 minutes.

results aren't very noticable. Car does idle better and the throttle response is somewhat improved.

Thanks
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 07:28 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by mvalspeed
Splendid write-up on changing the plugs. I would add: Whenever you remove or replace the sparkplugs, coat the threads with anti-seize compound...on the threads only. Be clean and precise about it, don't goop it on.

The reason is that the compound will make removal of the plug easier in the future, and keep the corrosion at bay if water somehow gets into the area.

A good preventative measure that will save you big $ if you strip or crack a plug down there.

good point
thanks
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 11:25 AM
  #73  
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From: MA
Service manual says stock plugs are good to 60,000 miles thats why they are Iridium..I took mine out at around 45,000 they looked fine, no gunk , but still got the BRP7ES which will be changed out every 10,000 Im thinking.

And torque them at 19 +-3 ft lbs
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 02:32 AM
  #74  
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From: CA
How important is it to tighten these bolts to the right "torque" cause I don't have a torque wrench and plan on doing this tmw.
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 03:12 PM
  #75  
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Anyone? I want do get started soon, If nobody responds I will prolly just go get a torque wrench...
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