ok checked like 5 auto parts stores for bpr7es and all i was able to find are 2 of them. does anyone know if they aren't made anymore. I know i can order them but kinda didn't want to wait and get them changed today.

 

I always found mine at Napa or Murray's Auto. Not sure if you have access to these stores, but you can also get them at Lancershop online - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/**************/oWLn

 

Lil' tip....

WAIT FOR ENGINE TO BE COOL/COLD FOR EASIEST REMOVAL...
The aluminum head will "squeeze" the plugs if it is at operating temp possibly stripping the threads. (You might burn yourself too.)

 

another good thread. i will be replacing my spark plugs tomorrow and also adding a custom hamster wheel w/small hamster who will auto adjust the spark plugs in high boost

 

I am going to change the spark plugs in my ’03 VIII today. I saw above in this thread that anti-seize on the plug threads is recommended. I’ve got some Permatex that “resists temperatures up to 1600 deg. F”. This is the brush on stuff (http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ubricant_a.htm). I assume that this stuff will work for the plugs, but I’d appreciate it if anyone has other ideas or experience.

 

Huh . . . Maybe this answers it: http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/con...SparkPlugs.pdf

From the NGK webpage: "It is recommended to use spark plugs with the special plating on all aluminum cylinder head applications to prevent damage to the cylinder head. All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with special shell plating on the metal body."

"The use of anti-seize on spark plugs is only recommended on those brands that
do not offer a special metal shell plating. Spark plugs that have a shiny silver
appearance on the metal body usually indicate that the spark plug is
manufactured with special metal shell plating. When installing spark plugs
without special metal plating (with anti-seize), install based on vehicle
manufacturer’s torque angle."

So the answer is "maybe", but check to see if your plugs come with this "special plating".

 

Old thread but was very usefull. If anyone else stumbles across this I would highly recommend a torque wrench. 18 ft lbs is about the equivalent of putting a lid on a jar of pickles. When you unscrew them it feels like a lot more torque is needed.

 

Old trick: use a 3/8's rubber fuel line hose (10-12") and squeeze it on the plug to pull out and replace plugs threading off and on until you need your ratchet. Its easier to feel your threads to reduce risk of X-threading. much easier/cheaper than any grabber tools.

Just did my plugs tonight at 81k... going to BPR8ES. My 7's look a bit burned. Past week car started breaking up/stalling on the big end 5200-5500 rpm's(Will post a good pic of stock plugs @81k tomorrow)

The long wire separated from plug end while removing from valve cover and NOBODY has em in stock and its Sat night. So will be on a hunt for wires tomorrow.

Also a coil separated from the lower plug end(you could see the little spring that carries the 'juice' from coil pack to wire end) and I just put it/squeezed the combo back together carefully. Anybody had this happen to them? problems?

Anyone lightly grease the outer jackets that go into the valve cover the ease dis-assembly later on for future plug changes?

 

doing mine this week fosho

 

Thanks ya'll, good info.

 

Thanks for the writeup!

 

Great write up even 6 years later! Swapped out my br8es' with some br8eix' I’ve been wanting to see what all the iridium goodness is all about. Popped um in 10 min job, runs like a champ no more popping stutter on the top end. No torque wrench needed hand tighten, and a baby 1/4 turn bada bing walk away happy