AVC-R Install w HKS SSQV and RS intake
Aug 9, 2005, 06:38 AM
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Otley, Iowa
Posts: 362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
AVC-R Install w HKS SSQV and RS intake
Ok, so I read the install but thought I'd add a few things.
#1. I am posting a picture, but basically, take a 4mm piece of vacuum tube and make a loop back plug where the stock hose connections to the stock solenoid. Reconnect the harness from the ECU to the stock solenoid, you will get a cel light if this is disconnected. Make sure to zip tie these and every other vacuum hose you are going to work with
#2. You will need to cap the nipple on the bottom of the Intake pipe (zip tie it)
#3. There is a lot of stock hosing you can clean up with this install, the nipple extender at the front of the motor can be completely removed which results in the same number of fittings as the stock configuration even with the T.
**I have redone my setup, you don't need the T.
Take off your intake all the way to the Turbo, you will see two hoses, one is close to the radiator, the other is a few inches closer to the motor
Remove these stock hoses (they are crap)
You need to make two hoses to replace them, one end needs to be 4mm, the other needs to be 6mm. Use a vacuum coupler that downsizes for this, (2 come with the kit) You can also buy these at O'Reily's or Advance Autoparts for a couple of dollars if for some reason you don't have them with your kit.
In my case, I cut a 6inch piece of 4mm and approx 1 ft of 6mm. I sized this to reach my solenoid, I recommend taking your own measurements to ensure optimum fit. Use as little hose as possible and do not kink the hose under any circumstances!!!!
When you take the stock vacuum hose off, the nipples are different colors, the one closest the radiator is gold, the one further back is black.
The Gold Nipple connects to the COM side of you Solenoid
The Black Nipple connects to the NO side of your Solenoid
Zip tie these connections, zip tie any vacuum connection, hell, look for vacuum connections and zip tie for the hell of it. Zip ties are your friend, buy in bulk!
#4. Feeding through the firewall is a pain in the ***, I tried to run it through a hole that I cut into that rubber flange but gave up after an hour. I ran it out the side of the glove box, through the door sill and out the hood. I posted pictures of this as well.
#5. The pressure sensor can be zip tied to the ac tubing and with the hose coming up from underneath it will actually sit very nicely.
I'm not sure if there is a benefit to running 6mm hose vs 4mm hose but I made an attempt to run as much 6mm as possible on the solenoid side of the install.
**Please note, the HKS vacuum tubing is so flimsy that you can actually stretch that tube onto a 6mm nipple. Silicone 4mm will not stretch.
***Under the stock configuration, the solenoid has one vacuum hose that goes to the turbo, this goes to a T fitting closer to the turbo. (the other hose goes to the intake) I'm really not sure how the hell this works, but it will NOT work with your Apex'i solenoid properly. You will be under boosting, running 90% duty cycle and trying to figure out why you can't keep 1Bar/14PSI.
*****You will need to tighten the Upper IC pipe on the side coming from your Intercooler. If you don't, you will blow this pipe off. The worm clamp DOES NOT WORK for this. You will need t-bolts, u-clamps, adhesive... something.. anything. Don't even leave the garage without clamping this down beyond what HKS has provided, you won't make it home without a problem running higher boost levels!!!!
********ZIP TIES!!!!!! Its easier to zip tie when the motor's cold then trying to zip tie a boost leak on a hot motor during dyno day!!!!
#1. I am posting a picture, but basically, take a 4mm piece of vacuum tube and make a loop back plug where the stock hose connections to the stock solenoid. Reconnect the harness from the ECU to the stock solenoid, you will get a cel light if this is disconnected. Make sure to zip tie these and every other vacuum hose you are going to work with
#2. You will need to cap the nipple on the bottom of the Intake pipe (zip tie it)
#3. There is a lot of stock hosing you can clean up with this install, the nipple extender at the front of the motor can be completely removed which results in the same number of fittings as the stock configuration even with the T.
**I have redone my setup, you don't need the T.
Take off your intake all the way to the Turbo, you will see two hoses, one is close to the radiator, the other is a few inches closer to the motor
Remove these stock hoses (they are crap)
You need to make two hoses to replace them, one end needs to be 4mm, the other needs to be 6mm. Use a vacuum coupler that downsizes for this, (2 come with the kit) You can also buy these at O'Reily's or Advance Autoparts for a couple of dollars if for some reason you don't have them with your kit.
In my case, I cut a 6inch piece of 4mm and approx 1 ft of 6mm. I sized this to reach my solenoid, I recommend taking your own measurements to ensure optimum fit. Use as little hose as possible and do not kink the hose under any circumstances!!!!
When you take the stock vacuum hose off, the nipples are different colors, the one closest the radiator is gold, the one further back is black.
The Gold Nipple connects to the COM side of you Solenoid
The Black Nipple connects to the NO side of your Solenoid
Zip tie these connections, zip tie any vacuum connection, hell, look for vacuum connections and zip tie for the hell of it. Zip ties are your friend, buy in bulk!
#4. Feeding through the firewall is a pain in the ***, I tried to run it through a hole that I cut into that rubber flange but gave up after an hour. I ran it out the side of the glove box, through the door sill and out the hood. I posted pictures of this as well.
#5. The pressure sensor can be zip tied to the ac tubing and with the hose coming up from underneath it will actually sit very nicely.
I'm not sure if there is a benefit to running 6mm hose vs 4mm hose but I made an attempt to run as much 6mm as possible on the solenoid side of the install.
**Please note, the HKS vacuum tubing is so flimsy that you can actually stretch that tube onto a 6mm nipple. Silicone 4mm will not stretch.
***Under the stock configuration, the solenoid has one vacuum hose that goes to the turbo, this goes to a T fitting closer to the turbo. (the other hose goes to the intake) I'm really not sure how the hell this works, but it will NOT work with your Apex'i solenoid properly. You will be under boosting, running 90% duty cycle and trying to figure out why you can't keep 1Bar/14PSI.
*****You will need to tighten the Upper IC pipe on the side coming from your Intercooler. If you don't, you will blow this pipe off. The worm clamp DOES NOT WORK for this. You will need t-bolts, u-clamps, adhesive... something.. anything. Don't even leave the garage without clamping this down beyond what HKS has provided, you won't make it home without a problem running higher boost levels!!!!
********ZIP TIES!!!!!! Its easier to zip tie when the motor's cold then trying to zip tie a boost leak on a hot motor during dyno day!!!!
Last edited by RyanM; Aug 11, 2005 at 05:37 PM.
Feb 21, 2007, 09:14 AM
#4
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Otley, Iowa
Posts: 362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
With a stock ECU you'll get a Check Engine light. With a stand alone it doesn't matter. Basically, the stock solenoid can't be open to atmosphere without causing a error condition that the ECU will report.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
fostytou
Evo How To Requests / Questions / Tips
338
Nov 10, 2023 11:55 AM
Raceghost
Evo How To Requests / Questions / Tips
1
Mar 11, 2019 01:04 PM
mrwickd123
Evo X How Tos / Installations
11
Nov 2, 2016 10:19 PM
