Aux.

iTrader: (1)

Alright everyone i know there has been some confusion in the world of hooking up a Forge MBC with bad drawings and vague information so here is my stab at how to hook-up a Forge MBC.

Tools you will need :
-- Drill and 3/16 sheet metal drill bit
-- 1/4 Drive ratchet
-- 6 in extension for sockets
-- 10 mm socket (Shallow or Deep well )
-- 12 mm socket ( Shallow or Deep well )
-- Needle noce pliers
-- Regular size phiolps head screw driver
-- Small thin flat head screw Driver
-- Dikes ( Mechanics slang for diagonal cutters )
-- Water, spit, or (yes i am serious) KY lube
-- Zip ties ( Size optional ) or small band clamps
-- Rubber Vacuum caps (small ones) , Autozone will know what your talking about
-- Vacuum tubing (it might be called windshield wiper tube also) i suggest 4mm bore

1) First thing you need to do is take out the intake ( this includes the box where the filter rests as well, this will require the 10mm socket, 6in extention, and ratchet. Be carefull because when you take off the to gold bolts your MAF sensor harness is connected to the box which can be removed with a pair of needle nose pliers ( squeeze the top of the clip ) as well as the plug being connected to the MAF sensor. Remove the plug, harness, two bolts, and the scrivets (the little plastic screws that hold the snorkle of the intake on). Be mindful to keep all the hardware togeather so you don't lose it. Refer to picture 1.

2) Next you will have to take the Upper intercooler pipe out, this can be done with the ratchet, 6in extention and 10mm socket. You will find that on the underneath side of the Upper intercooler pipe there is a hose that hooks up to the Blow off valve. It is easiest to remove the hose that attaches to the BOV than it is to remove from the intercooloer valve just because of room. Use the small flat head screw driver to get underneath the rubber hoses to take them away from the piping itself **CAUTION: Be very carefull when using the srew driver , you don't wat to puncture the hoses. **. Again keep all hardware togeather as not to lose it. Refer to picture 2.

3) What was attached to the airbox and underneath the Upper intercooler pipe and is also hooked up to the BOV is the Turbine outlet duct. Take this duct out using care. There are two lines attached to the duct with a zip tie(these are the lines you will be removing in the end), cut the zip tie and let the tubes below the outlet duct hang. Another line attached to the outlet duct goes to the head, remove the portion hooked to the duct and tuck it aside for now. There is also another smaller line hooked up to the bottom of the outlet duct remove it from the duct. When all is removed use a zip tie and rubber cap to cap this port off. Refer to picture 3.

4) Now you should be able to see the wastegate and the Turbine outlet nipple. These are the two lines you will be removing to install your new tubing going from to your MBC. If you find it really difficult to remove the lines from the Wastegate and or Turbine nipple just cut them off ( these hoses will not be going back in the car ) to expose the full port. Refer to picture 4.

5) Following the Wastegate and Turbine nipple tube back you will notice they hook-up to the same place underneath where your airbox was, this is your wastegate solenoid, remove these two tubes. It is easiest just to take a short run of tubing and run the ports to eachother and zip tie them on. Taking care of that will take care of the last portion of the capping off of ports. Now all stock tubing should be removed and we are almost done. Refer to picture 5.

Now all there is left to do is run your lines and zip tie then firmly to all ports. The new tube that runs to the Turbine outlet nipple is the line that will go to the bottom of the MBC, while the wastegate line will go to the side port of the MBC. Generally get an idea of where you want to install the MBC for routing purposes and when you are done measure with some slack available before cutting the lines to hook up to your Unos.

NOTES: Above you will see that i mentioned using KY lube. Because KY lube does not brake down rubber (such as condoms and cars tubing) it is safe to use a small dab to make lines and tubing slide in a little easier. Mike@Forge uses 3mm bore which i personally would find impossible to conect which is why i personally went with 4mm bore. With the 4mm bore and some KY and some fighting the tubing connected to the Unos perfectly.

Also, secure all tubing so there is no sagging in the lines. Chaffing would be horrible for the tubing.

Lastly, wait till the end to install your Upper intercooler pipe to give you room when you go to reconnect your Turbine outlet pipe to the airbox ( don't forget to hook-up that MAF sensor plug ) it can be a real pain if you don't. I hope this helps everyone, it worked for me. Good luck and race safe.

-- Aux. --

sirloin1219

iTrader: (2)

good post..you should also add how to remove the radiator fan..cause they wont be able to get down there unless they get it off

Aux.

iTrader: (1)

Way incorrect . I am a 6'1'' 240 lbs man and i could get the job done without removing the radiator fan. Plus you take too much chance on damaging the blades on the radiator. Might get a few scratches and scars , but chics dig those .

liquidchrome

iTrader: (6)

i just installed my Perrin MBC and to get to that little pipe sticking out the turbine and the actuator..... all hell broke loose... i took out upper IC pipe, Intake box and pipe, removed radiator fan....
i had to remove the upper radiator hose to get it out because the fan cover is a huge piece of metal with some mounting hardware sticking out which gets caught on the lower IC pipe which i couldn't get off unless i jacked the car up and removed the undertray... it was december 15 with snow and ice on the ground and i have no garage, i'm doing it on the sidestreet in front of my house in 25 degree weather soooo.... i'm basically tearing everything apart as quick as my frozen hands can work.
pop off the radiator hose (yea you lose some juice but it's ok) yank out the fan and wow. it's so much easier.

yes i received battle scars from my baby and yes i bent some of her radiator blades, but the power i gained.... all worth it.
btw: every one of my zip ties broke in this frigid weather... cheap plastic. i got one zip tie to hold the MBC in place with another hose.

sleet

iTrader: (9)

Just put a peice of cardboard over the fan so the blades don't even touch you

Aux.

iTrader: (1)

sometimes its easier not to remove things and get a couple more scratches.But thats just my theory, to each ther own. As an aircraft mechanic for the last eight years i have figured out that the less you take out the less you put in the less you disturb things the less that can go wrong. But hey whatever makes it work for you . As far as the cheap-o zip ties are concerned , i personally used metal "ban clamps" so they don't slip or break in the weather. Thats what we use on aircraft.I am just glad i could help.

liquidchrome

iTrader: (6)

question... what to do with factory solenoid lines?

the one that's under the stockbox and is split with a T.
lines used to go to turbine outlet and actuator
Mine's just haning around open ended, split with no caps.
Should i remove the whole plug and everything?

Silver Knight

iTrader: (3)

Hope this helps. Just wanted to piggy back on the write up with some other pics and procedures.

1. Remove the snorkle.

2. Remove the two bolts on the air box.

3. Loosen the clamp bolt that holds the air box to the turbo inlet tube.

* You do not need to remove the wiring harness from the air box. The bracket that the driver's side airbox bolt screws into also has a pinch clip that holds the waste gate solenoid harness to the bracket.*

4. Remove the harness clip (can't really see in pic but it's black plastic).

5. Remove the solenoid connector and now you can lay the airbox on the battery. (This works for the 2003, but my buddies 2005 had an additional harness so it would'nt reach to the battery but you can still lay it out of the way.)



6. Loosen the hose clamps on either side of the intercooler hard pipe that connects the two rubber ones. Also loosen the remaining hose clamp on the rubber intercooler pipe closest to the front of the car.

7. Loosen the hose clamp that holds the BOV to the turbo inlet tube.

8. Remove the hard pipe from between the rubber ones, work the BOV out of the inlet tube to remove it completely and remove the rubber intercooler hose closest to the front of the car.

9. Remove the vacuum hoses from the inlet tube. One goes to the valve cover. The other to the waste gate solenoid. This one you need to take out the plastic insert and put it in the inlet tube and cap it.

10. Remove the turbo inlet tube by loosening the clamp at the turbo. Depending on the orientation of the clamp this could take 1 minute or 15. A socket driver(looks like a screwdriver but you can put a socket on the end) will help here.

*Caution the fan shroud is very sharp! Yeah..I was bleeding.*


*With all that crap out of the way you can see the where the hoses from the WG solenoid hook to the nipples on the waste gate and the compressor outlet. In this pic my compressor nipple is capped cause I was using the BOV vacuum hose, I have since redid it and hooked it here.*



11. Remove the stock hoses from the waste gate and the compressor tube. (this is a pain in the *** by the way)

* I left my stock hoses connected to the solenoid and zip tied them down.*



12. Now figure out where you want to mount your mbc and route your hoses. Allow some slack you can always cut off excess.

13. Hook the bottom of the mbc to the compressor and the side to the waste gate.

14. Put everything back. Make sure the mbc is at it's lowest setting and go out and adjust.

EvolvinEvo

iTrader: (4)

yep didn't have to remove radiator fan but my knuckles got bloody and cut up!! the damn turbo inlet hose clamp was facing downwards so I kinda struggled to get it off took me 2 hours because of that to finish the install otherwise..good how-to writeup made it pretty straightforward

Deepseadiver

iTrader: (3)

Where is the best place to mount the forge MBC? Also would it be eaiser to put the car on a lift, remove the under tray and connect from under the car?

Aux.

iTrader: (1)

I hooked mine up on the bracket that comes off the intercoller right under the airbow.....i love where mine is. It just takes alot of work trying to find too many spots to hook yours up at and be able to adjust the MBC easily.


Oh and an Edit for your question: #ell no i wouldn't be easier to lift the car and take off the undertray.....have you evertried to take off your undertray ? If your asking about a MBC as an "Evolved Member" it means that you probably haven't"tinkered" around on your car much.......the undertray sucks and if your not prepared to yell "SCREW IT" and leave off you tray because how difficult it is to get back on take my word.....it sucks.

Deepseadiver

iTrader: (3)

I have tinkerd plenty with my EVO, I just put the V-Band Buschur TBE on.

Also my old 2004 VIII was modded with all the bolt-ons, FMIC, and cams, more stuff than in your signature, all performed by myself. I traded up to a IX SE. On my old car I took the tray off and it was not that hard, but you have a point... I never put it back on.

As far as the MBC question, the main question was where to mount it! I know there are plenty of spots, I was just having a hard time finding a good spot.

Bump for more good spots. As far as under the airbox did you have to drill a new holes for the bracket that comes with it, or dirll a larger hole in the bracket and mount it to an existing location.

boostless

iTrader: (21)

I mounted mine with super 3M adhesive tape to the side of the fuse box. Easy access and EVERYTHING I did is reversible to look stock. (Goooooo warranty!)

rish197

iTrader: (34)

I mounted mine in the same spot. Right next to the fuse box.

SPANKED

iTrader: (2)

Great info...thanks everyone!