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Rotor Removal Stuck??

Old May 4, 2010 | 05:37 PM
  #31  
FooM Anchoo's Avatar
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From: Louisville KY
going to be changing my rear brakes and rotors this week. Thanks to everyone who posted up and making my task easily understood

I love this forum
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Old May 5, 2010 | 04:30 PM
  #32  
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From: Exeter
Good call on the brakes and in gear. I used a 4 ft metal pry bar inbetween the studs and rags to protect the threads cuz i was alone. I wouldnt recommend that as a first choice but if all others fail it works.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 06:11 PM
  #33  
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From: Blue Grass, Iowa
No kidding, I had a stuck front rotor. I never knew about those M8 holes. I beat that rotor with a rubber mallet for 20 minutes yesterday and it wouldn't come off. Two cranks with an M8 bolt and it popped off like magic.
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 12:21 PM
  #34  
08Lancer89's Avatar
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From: SWFL
I want to put extended studs In the rear or my 2009 Ralliart do I use this same concept?
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 07:54 AM
  #35  
qiksilver's Avatar
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From: Tallahassee, FL
OMG the tip to use the threaded hole on the rotors just saved me hours of frustration
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 07:16 AM
  #36  
swatteamtimmah's Avatar
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From: Akron, Ohio
Sorry to bring this back from the grave, but this thread was incredibly useful, I just did a pad/rotor change on a '12 Evo X that I recently picked up and I was second guessing myself when it came to the rear rotors when they wouldn't pop off. I've never encountered a E-brake tension issue that prevented the rotors from just sliding off. The M8x1.25 bolts worked however.

Also, the e-brake tensioner that is mentioned in previous posts was located behind a rubber grommet on the front of the rear rotors hats.
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