Well, after losing an allen wrench in a difficult to reach place, i was able to remove my type rs, which was causing low idle/stalling/woop woop woop woop woop issues. This is only for those poor unfortunate souls who already installed the bov, and then discovered the issue...

Tools:
allen wrench
philips screwdriver
channel locks
string
pan to collect radiator fluid
socket wrench with long socket
reading skills


I removed the air intake scoop with a philips head screwdriver

I loosened the radiator cap to release the pressure with channel locks.

I removed the radiator hose, making sure to hold the hose up as I did it.

I also made sure to keep a pan under the radiator, as it WILL leak.

I used a string to wrap around the hose and pulled it back and tied the other end around the battery to keep it outta the way.

I removed the small vacuum tube hose that's connected to the bov.

I used a philips screw driver to remove the recirc. hose.

I used an allen wrench to remove the 2 screws holding the bov to the turbo.

Now that the bov is out, make sure not to lose the blue wafer piece, it may detach itself.

Remove the nut on the top of the bov and make sure to keep the nut and flat washer together. I'm not sure of the socket size needed to do this, but a long socket will do the trick.

Using the same socket wrench, remove the vacuum tube on the bov.

Now, using an allen wrench, remove the 6? screws in the bov.

The last screw will be difficult, as the springs will try to pop out. Simply hold the bov together and continue removing the last screw.

Once all the screws are removed, you will be able to easily open the bov, revealing the 2 springs, and a flat piece of metal to push down on the springs.

Remove only the small spring (inside of the big spring).

Replace cover for bov.

Put the 6? screws back into the bov with the allen wrench.

Verify that all 6? screws are screwed in very tightly.

Reinstall the vacuum tube with the socket wrench.

Reinstall the flat washer followed by the nut to the bov, and screw into your personal liking (1 turn past snug for me... more on that later).

Going back to the engine, install the blue wafer piece on the bov port closest to the turbo.

Place the bov on top of the wafer.

Use an allen wrench to reapply the screws to the bov locking it down tightly.

Reinsert the recirc hose and tighten with a philips screwdriver.

Insert the vacuum tube hose to the small hole on the bov.

Reattach the radiator hose with channel locks.

Reinstall the air intake scoop.

Close the hood

Start your evo, and prepare to be stunned. After following this process, my poor idle/stall issues disapeared! It felt like there was a nice gain in performance (maybe my imagination, maybe not) and the flutter issues... well.... they're still there, but it only flutters 3 times now instead of 5. If anyone has any idea on how to rectify this, pm me, or comment.

There may be other ways to do this, and if you notice an error, make sure to point it out. I tried to be as detailed and step by step as possible. Enjoy!

 

good

 

can you explain to me why you drained the radiator again or removed the upper hose to the radiator??

 

The radiator hose blocked the bov. see my pics page (in signature) to see what i mean.

 

What did you try to mod the BOV while it was mounted??? Cause i dont see why you would need to remove the Radiator hose. I moved mine when it had it lots of times without touching that hose.

 

I removed it, modded it, then put it back on.

 

Single spring mod IS NOT recommended under any circumstance by us. It will give you a poor idle and leak like a sieve at vacuum. There are 2 springs in it for a reason.

 

As far as the leaking issue, i've heard of it but have no way of testing it that I know of. From what I understand, the Type RS is for higher boost applications (20+) and my car is only boosting 18 psi. Before doing the mod, everytime i clutched in, my idle would dip to stall speed, and i'd lose the power steering, and the lights would dim. If I turned while this was happening, it'd stall. Now however, The car runs like a champ, and feels much more responsive. I have NO more idle issues.

 

Are you venting to atmosphere or recirculating?

 

Recirculating.

 

OK, kinda jumping in on this thread, but I have this same problem w/ my car, except, no mods, at least none on it now, or none that I know of, I got it used. It has 60k miles on it, and I just had it in for the 60k service, plus timing belt and the other belt, all fluids changed, they replaced the tentioner on the alternator also. A friend of mine said it could be that my ecu was reset, and just needs to learn how to idle again or something like that. Any ideas anyone?

 

I've heard subaru ecu's require a bit of training, and are adaptive, but mitsu's aren't as much. try doing the mod, and see if you notice a difference. The worst that can happen, is you cut yourself and waste an hour of your weekend.

 

I have a stock BOV though, Im guessing that matters...

 

You DO NOT have to remove your radiator hose, but however it is helpful if you install your BOV the correct way not backwards!
This is the OP's BOV install!:




You can clearly see that it is in backwards.
People, If your BOV does not work right, make sure it is installed right!!!!!!!!!

 

btw, your flutter problems will dissapear when you install the BOV correctly w/ 2 springs in it, and adjusted properly.