Adjust hand brake?
isnt there a way to adjust it at the wheels?
bcuz i assume that constantly adjusting at the handle is only stretching the cable more and more, and will eventually possibly potentially SNAP the cable?
im gonna gettin around to gettin a kevlar cable
bcuz i assume that constantly adjusting at the handle is only stretching the cable more and more, and will eventually possibly potentially SNAP the cable?
im gonna gettin around to gettin a kevlar cable
Originally Posted by skurukutoi
isnt there a way to adjust it at the wheels?
bcuz i assume that constantly adjusting at the handle is only stretching the cable more and more, and will eventually possibly potentially SNAP the cable?
im gonna gettin around to gettin a kevlar cable
bcuz i assume that constantly adjusting at the handle is only stretching the cable more and more, and will eventually possibly potentially SNAP the cable?
im gonna gettin around to gettin a kevlar cable
you don't need no kevlar cable for your e-brake.
EVERY cable will strecth after first installed. i'm a HUGE bike rider. road and mountain. i install brakes on bikes ALL the time and the MAIN thing we tell people, is to readjust their brakes after three month because of cable stretch. and sometimes they need to be adjusted twice, but it eventually stops stretching and all becomes right with the world...
just adjust it at the cable...
just adjust it at the cable...
For the people after the extra info, there is only so much adjustment in the handbrake at the handbrake lever and if this does not resolve your handbrake woes and you find yourself at the end of the thread (ie. tightened all the way to the end), you will need to jack up the car, remove the rear wheels and adjust the hand brake shoes through the 6o'clock hole on the rear brake rotor hubs. Refer to the mitsubishi service manual for more information.
The primary handbrake cable is pretty strong and I don't think you will snap this cable. The secondary cables that run to each rear wheel is thinner and would be more likely to snap. but as said before it is not an issue that comes up often.
The primary handbrake cable is pretty strong and I don't think you will snap this cable. The secondary cables that run to each rear wheel is thinner and would be more likely to snap. but as said before it is not an issue that comes up often.
Last edited by BEZ-01W; Jan 15, 2010 at 05:24 PM.
I just did all my brakes, F+R rotors and pads and decided to do the rear brake shoes as well since I use it a lot to slow down when I see a cop as not to set of my brake lights. 
I did not adjust it from in the cabin, I did it from the spindle inside the rear rotor. I guess you can do it from the cabin, but I think it's at least wise to pull the rotors off on higher mileage Evo's, just to see what kind of material you are working with.

I did not adjust it from in the cabin, I did it from the spindle inside the rear rotor. I guess you can do it from the cabin, but I think it's at least wise to pull the rotors off on higher mileage Evo's, just to see what kind of material you are working with.
Ebrake adjustment
I have yet to tackle this project. Sounds fairly simple just time consuming. -Almost- worth the 40$ if you consider what all is involved. Anyone find the user manual pdf that shows first hand how to adjust at rotor/caliper?



