Before you start make sure you get the following tools together and have about 1 to 1 1/2 hours of work time:

10mm socket (deep well)

12mm socket

7/16th socket (deep well)

Ratchet

Small Phillips screwdriver

Flat head screwdriver



1. Remove all your fasteners (lost count in YELLOW on pic), screws (2 on under tray for tow hook cover) and bolts (2 in wheel well and 4 on front side of bumper in RED on pic) connected to the bumper from the under tray, wheel wells, and front of car (If you have a radiator shroud, also remove the air scoop and top radiator mounts with shroud)





2. Once you are done removing all the fasteners, screws, and bolts, you are ready to remove the bumper. Carefully pull down on the bumper where the bumper and the fender meet (refer to markings on pic below). Once you release the bumper from the fender, grab the front on the bumper where the nose is and work the bumper off the car.





*Note: The under tray will not have to be removed completely (just enough space to work the LICP off the turbo outlet), but if your under tray doesn’t look the pic below, make sure you remove whatever fasteners needed to finish your work.





3. Now the fun part. Loosen up the stock clamps off the turbo outlet and adapter on the intercooler. Once those are loose, go ahead and remove the two bolts supporting the stock LICP and pull off the LICP (Refer to pic below) (These two bolts and stock clamps will not be needed anymore).





4. Mount the new LICP to the turbo outlet and intercooler (make sure that your t-bolt clamps and stock turbo inner adapter are on the couplers prior to mounting, refer to pic below for inner adapter placement) and tighten down your t-bolt clamps. The stock coupler was reused to apply the new LICP to the stock intercooler since the HPF package comes with a coupler for a straight connection.





*Note: When tightening down the t-bolt clamps, make sure that the LICP doesn’t hang too low (If not you will see the under tray bulge down a bit when that is put back together). Work the pipe to sit high like the stock LICP when tightening down the t-bolt clamps to avoid this from happening.









5. LICP is now on vehicle. Go ahead and work back words from step 2 to get your bumper and undertray secured to your rest of your vehicle. The install will now be complete (all that should be left over is the stock LICP, stock clamps, and two bolts holding up the stock LICP).



*VERY IMPORTANT NOTE*

If you have any kind of boost controller, make sure you drop the setting down as to vehicle will build a bit more boost (at least this happened to me). Then modify your setting till you reach your previous boost levels (I was building 25lbs on 91 oct after install, BIG NO NO…lol)




Here are some side by side comparisons of the two LICP’s:






Link to purchase this Lower intercooler pipe (LICP) from Horsepower Freaks (HPF):

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=195067


Any questions, comments, or concerns are welcomed…Please feel free to PM me about the How To or (HPF Tom or HPF Eric) about their product.

 

Great write-up! Thanks Alain!

Tom
1-866-HPF-5600 x 104
AIM: HPF Tom

 

So far this is the intercooler Compatability list:

Stock Intercooler
Greddy V-Spec Intercooler

 

did you notice any lag increase in spool?

 

Nope....feels the same to me...actually feel better throttle response now...

 

No offense, but thats the long way. I did the same install with the same LICP and I didn't have to touch the front mask. It was cake.

In other news.... yes this is a FANTASTIC! LICP. I am very pleased with the gains I received from this piece.

 

great write up! I'll be sure to take note when we do the install instructions for the Fuel system.

 

all makes sense except for the ending. Wouldn't revving the engine while the car is standing still only produce 0vac? I thought boost is only built when the engine is under load?

 

Just curious, what exactly did you remove?

 

Yeah what's the short way to remove it? Just take the undertray off and work from underneath?

 

All I removed was the under tray.

I accessed one bolt holding the stock LICP from the top down in front of the radiator overflow tank if I remember correctly...been a while since I did that install. Then the other from underneath the car. I didn't find the install to be tough at all. You do need to make sure you get the HPF pipe held in the exact position you want it in before you start tightening it. Since there is no support bracket for this part, you'll want to push up on it a bit... then the heavy duty t-bolt claps will hold in position just fine.

 

Its kinda hard to get to the coupler on the intercooler with the bumper on in my opinion....

 

Alan678,

People like you makes the difference. Thank you soo much for helping others out. Despite I have done LICP myself I still give you credit for posting the "How to do".

Pictures looks killer and the presentation is awesome. I wish people would be more proactive and do more write ups like that( this is not a critique, just a wish)

Carlos

 

I used this write up months ago when I purchased my pipes and never said thanks! Thanks!!!

 

im thinking the same thing...but nonetheless this "how to" is perfection, good job