oil changes
for OEM
Jul 8, 2003, 12:41 PM
#32
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I sitll don't know how to use the quote function, so I'll just copy and paste...
Steve - "Another thought...it surprises me that manufacturers are putting synthetics in from new. The general though in the past has been placing mineral oil in the car during break-in was a better policy. I bought a new BMW that had synth's in it from factory, my EVO, of course, does also. Is the idea of no synthetics during break-in a myth? Synth's extend break in requirements?"
According to Shiv, replacing the synthetic oil with regular non-synthetic oil for the first 5000 miles results in better performance for the car (again, I'll copy and paste what Shiv said in another thread...):
"For break-in, we recommend, draining the Mobil 1 synthetic oil the car came with and replacing it with standard non-synthetic. After 5000 miles or so, go back to a good synethic like Redline or Royal Purple. The cars that have broken in on regular oil have consistently made 10 wheel hp more (on our dyno) than the ones that ran on the factory oil. They also don't burn any oil."
But won't replacing the synthetic with non-synthetic void the warranty???
Steve - "Another thought...it surprises me that manufacturers are putting synthetics in from new. The general though in the past has been placing mineral oil in the car during break-in was a better policy. I bought a new BMW that had synth's in it from factory, my EVO, of course, does also. Is the idea of no synthetics during break-in a myth? Synth's extend break in requirements?"
According to Shiv, replacing the synthetic oil with regular non-synthetic oil for the first 5000 miles results in better performance for the car (again, I'll copy and paste what Shiv said in another thread...):
"For break-in, we recommend, draining the Mobil 1 synthetic oil the car came with and replacing it with standard non-synthetic. After 5000 miles or so, go back to a good synethic like Redline or Royal Purple. The cars that have broken in on regular oil have consistently made 10 wheel hp more (on our dyno) than the ones that ran on the factory oil. They also don't burn any oil."
But won't replacing the synthetic with non-synthetic void the warranty???
Jul 8, 2003, 01:46 PM
#33
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To quote, go to the post you want to quote and click the quote tab above it, or learn vB code and type it out...
Yes it will void warranty
My question is how long will those motors last?..... My friends AWD talon received a new motor and he never broke it in, just went out and molested it from day one. That car was stupid fast for a talon but the motor lasted about 30,000 miles and lets not talk about what he did to the turbo. He ALWAYS ran 10-30 dino oil. I itnhk i'll stick to what mitsubishi says to use. This car is 100% JApan built so i have alot of faith in it. I itnhk the only other mitsu that was 100% Japanese was the VR4 and those guys are running 8000rpms on stock internals and making in the neighborhood of 500hp at the wheels. I give MMC props on their design, although the US needs to fire all the CEO's at mitsu motors and higher me, i'll do things the right way....... starting with standard ACD and YAW...
= 
+ 
hehe
Yes it will void warranty
My question is how long will those motors last?..... My friends AWD talon received a new motor and he never broke it in, just went out and molested it from day one. That car was stupid fast for a talon but the motor lasted about 30,000 miles and lets not talk about what he did to the turbo. He ALWAYS ran 10-30 dino oil. I itnhk i'll stick to what mitsubishi says to use. This car is 100% JApan built so i have alot of faith in it. I itnhk the only other mitsu that was 100% Japanese was the VR4 and those guys are running 8000rpms on stock internals and making in the neighborhood of 500hp at the wheels. I give MMC props on their design, although the US needs to fire all the CEO's at mitsu motors and higher me, i'll do things the right way....... starting with standard ACD and YAW...
= + hehe
Last edited by 1QWKEVO; Jul 8, 2003 at 01:49 PM.
Jul 9, 2003, 05:59 PM
#34
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Um, do you guys know where the jack points are for the front of the car? I looked at the service manual and it has a picture, but I don't think that's a picture of the car, more of the normal Lancer, because the point that it shows is not on the car. It says to jack up the car right under the intercooler, and I don't htink that's right. There's a bunch of plastic covering on it, so...... WHERE DO I JACK UP THE CAR FROM?!?!?! I need to change my oil tonite..... Thanks
Jul 9, 2003, 06:13 PM
#36
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Originally posted by __NiTe__
Um, do you guys know where the jack points are for the front of the car? I looked at the service manual and it has a picture, but I don't think that's a picture of the car, more of the normal Lancer, because the point that it shows is not on the car. It says to jack up the car right under the intercooler, and I don't htink that's right. There's a bunch of plastic covering on it, so...... WHERE DO I JACK UP THE CAR FROM?!?!?! I need to change my oil tonite..... Thanks
Um, do you guys know where the jack points are for the front of the car? I looked at the service manual and it has a picture, but I don't think that's a picture of the car, more of the normal Lancer, because the point that it shows is not on the car. It says to jack up the car right under the intercooler, and I don't htink that's right. There's a bunch of plastic covering on it, so...... WHERE DO I JACK UP THE CAR FROM?!?!?! I need to change my oil tonite..... Thanks
Jul 10, 2003, 05:39 PM
#41
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Does the new filter have the torque specs written on it? If not, does anybody know the torque value? Also, anyone absolutely sure as to how much oil total to put in the car including filter change? Thanks for your help!
Gumpy
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Jul 10, 2003, 05:57 PM
#42
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ok funny how i c this post today bcuz i changed my oil today... i dont kno why but i actually had a problem... ok well first off i bought 3 filters from mitsu for 18$... just to buy one it costs freakin 8$... well newayz... so i drained my oil...let it sit for like a good 5 minutes to drain........ it stopped drippin..... i put on new filter... put in 4 quarts... put car back down lying flat...... check my dipstick........ and WOAH WTF.... almost 2x as much above the line that it should be.... doesnt make sense.... so i go driving around a little bit and check it again.... same problem... my and my boy figure maybe the car was a little bit too tilted on one side and the oil didnt drain all the way bcuz some was to the side... i have not driven my car since a few hours ago bcuz i dont want to drive with too much oil... but first thing in the morning im goin have to drain my oil again... great... 4 quarts at 7-8$ a peice.... wutta waste of money! mobil 1 aint cheap stuff yo!
Oct 28, 2007, 12:19 AM
#44
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paid $12 for 3 filters with the washers
can some please tell me specified torque on drain plug?
and do i need to torque the oil filter also? or hand tight is fine?
please pm me
can some please tell me specified torque on drain plug?
and do i need to torque the oil filter also? or hand tight is fine?
please pm me
