oil changes
May 12, 2003, 01:59 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Amman, jordan
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
oil changes
Can anyone be so kind as to give a ste by step "how to" account on changing your own oil for the EVO? If you could include pics it would greatly be appreciated. I have never changed the oil in my cars, always had someone do it, but with the Evo, I would rather be doing it myself.
Thanks
Thanks
May 12, 2003, 01:49 PM
#2
No pictures, but I just did that this weekend so I can give you my account of the experience.
- First, run the car so that the oil is warm (so until your water temp is at normal [about mid point in the gauge]).
- Raise the front of the car (best with ramps or use two jack stands after raising the front).
- Locate the oil pan. If you are under the car with your back on the ground, it should be to your right (passenger side) near the control arm... you should see the oil filter rigth there too.
- With a 17mm wrench loosen the drain plug, and have a fairly big oil catch pan under there too, also wear gloves so your hands don't get all oily.
- as the oil starts to trickle, start going slowly until the bolt comes out.
- as the oil drains, get out from under the car, open your hood and open the oil filler cap (the one with the mobil 1 logo), this will allow the oil to flow more rapidly.
- check the location of your catch pan as the oil starts to come out slower (you may have to move it to avoid spills).
- once the oil is just driping drop by drop, it's time to remove the oil filter. For this you will need a filter tool (has a strap that clamps the filter for easy turning).
- let all that oil drain out to a drip as well and empty the oil filter before you dispose of it.
- Now, get your new oil filter and using the new mobil 1 10-30, lubricate the gasket with your fingers. Put the new oil filter in place, and tigthen to the appropriate torque.
- Replace the oil pan drain bolt and tighten to the appropriate torque.
- Pour 4 quarts of your new oil slowly through the engine filler point. Check for leaks and act acordingly if you see any. If everything checks out, at this point I lower the car (without running it) and get it back on an even surface and check oil level... it should not register anything, so keep adding more oil until you get a read.
- Once you get a read to about the half point, replace the filler cap and tighten and now run the engine for a little while, allowing oil to settle everywhere and fill the oil filter fully. Stop the engine and check oil level and fill up as necessary.
- I always keep the extra oil with me and check both warm and cool levels for the following couple of days to make sure everything is good.
I ended up using 5 quarts on my oil change, and I used Mobil 1 10-30 (which is the only oil you should use to keep the car under warranty). Keep receipts for both the oil and oil filter and keep a log with miles on the odo and the receipts, as well as any other inspections and maintenance you performed.
Hope that helps, I know it is a very detailed account, but I figured since I didn't have photos you'd want more detail rather than less. Of course, this is just for information purposes, any work you do on your own car is at your own risk.
Pablo.
- First, run the car so that the oil is warm (so until your water temp is at normal [about mid point in the gauge]).
- Raise the front of the car (best with ramps or use two jack stands after raising the front).
- Locate the oil pan. If you are under the car with your back on the ground, it should be to your right (passenger side) near the control arm... you should see the oil filter rigth there too.
- With a 17mm wrench loosen the drain plug, and have a fairly big oil catch pan under there too, also wear gloves so your hands don't get all oily.
- as the oil starts to trickle, start going slowly until the bolt comes out.
- as the oil drains, get out from under the car, open your hood and open the oil filler cap (the one with the mobil 1 logo), this will allow the oil to flow more rapidly.
- check the location of your catch pan as the oil starts to come out slower (you may have to move it to avoid spills).
- once the oil is just driping drop by drop, it's time to remove the oil filter. For this you will need a filter tool (has a strap that clamps the filter for easy turning).
- let all that oil drain out to a drip as well and empty the oil filter before you dispose of it.
- Now, get your new oil filter and using the new mobil 1 10-30, lubricate the gasket with your fingers. Put the new oil filter in place, and tigthen to the appropriate torque.
- Replace the oil pan drain bolt and tighten to the appropriate torque.
- Pour 4 quarts of your new oil slowly through the engine filler point. Check for leaks and act acordingly if you see any. If everything checks out, at this point I lower the car (without running it) and get it back on an even surface and check oil level... it should not register anything, so keep adding more oil until you get a read.
- Once you get a read to about the half point, replace the filler cap and tighten and now run the engine for a little while, allowing oil to settle everywhere and fill the oil filter fully. Stop the engine and check oil level and fill up as necessary.
- I always keep the extra oil with me and check both warm and cool levels for the following couple of days to make sure everything is good.
I ended up using 5 quarts on my oil change, and I used Mobil 1 10-30 (which is the only oil you should use to keep the car under warranty). Keep receipts for both the oil and oil filter and keep a log with miles on the odo and the receipts, as well as any other inspections and maintenance you performed.
Hope that helps, I know it is a very detailed account, but I figured since I didn't have photos you'd want more detail rather than less. Of course, this is just for information purposes, any work you do on your own car is at your own risk.
Pablo.
May 12, 2003, 02:03 PM
#3
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Between the Blue and the Sand
Posts: 2,367
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good Stuff Bluedot!
The only things I think that need clarifiying in the step by step above are;
1. When replacing the oil drain plug, make sure you removed the old copper crush washer and that you replaced it with a new one. The oil drain plug washers are not reuseable.
2. It is usually better to remove the oil from the car on a level surface. If the car is up on ramps the oil usually doesn not drain as fully as it would on a level surface. I use a jack and jack stands instead of a ramp. Once most of the oil is drained, I lower the car back to the ground to make sure all oil has drained before adding any new stock.
3. The oil filter may be a pain to get off for the first change. It seems like the machine that put it in place from the factory overtorqued the filter. So just be patient, it will come unscrewed if you keep at it.
SC~
The only things I think that need clarifiying in the step by step above are;
1. When replacing the oil drain plug, make sure you removed the old copper crush washer and that you replaced it with a new one. The oil drain plug washers are not reuseable.
2. It is usually better to remove the oil from the car on a level surface. If the car is up on ramps the oil usually doesn not drain as fully as it would on a level surface. I use a jack and jack stands instead of a ramp. Once most of the oil is drained, I lower the car back to the ground to make sure all oil has drained before adding any new stock.
3. The oil filter may be a pain to get off for the first change. It seems like the machine that put it in place from the factory overtorqued the filter. So just be patient, it will come unscrewed if you keep at it.
SC~
Last edited by Secret Chimp; May 12, 2003 at 02:05 PM.
May 12, 2003, 03:00 PM
#5
Evolving Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: OC
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't know how the Oil Filter is located on the Evo ( vertical or horizontal ) but whichever way I prefill the oil filter too before I screw it on. If it's a vertical placement upt to the top, if horizontal about 3/4 or soand screw on quick.
Do this so that when you start her up first time, the time to fill the filter will be less, and so the time the egine is running without oil is also less. After all 90% ( more ?? ) of all engine wear occurs at start up.
Do this so that when you start her up first time, the time to fill the filter will be less, and so the time the egine is running without oil is also less. After all 90% ( more ?? ) of all engine wear occurs at start up.
May 12, 2003, 03:43 PM
#6
Originally posted by Secret Chimp
Good Stuff Bluedot!
The only things I think that need clarifiying in the step by step above are;
1. When replacing the oil drain plug, make sure you removed the old copper crush washer and that you replaced it with a new one. The oil drain plug washers are not reuseable.
2. It is usually better to remove the oil from the car on a level surface. If the car is up on ramps the oil usually doesn not drain as fully as it would on a level surface. I use a jack and jack stands instead of a ramp. Once most of the oil is drained, I lower the car back to the ground to make sure all oil has drained before adding any new stock.
3. The oil filter may be a pain to get off for the first change. It seems like the machine that put it in place from the factory overtorqued the filter. So just be patient, it will come unscrewed if you keep at it.
SC~
Good Stuff Bluedot!
The only things I think that need clarifiying in the step by step above are;
1. When replacing the oil drain plug, make sure you removed the old copper crush washer and that you replaced it with a new one. The oil drain plug washers are not reuseable.
2. It is usually better to remove the oil from the car on a level surface. If the car is up on ramps the oil usually doesn not drain as fully as it would on a level surface. I use a jack and jack stands instead of a ramp. Once most of the oil is drained, I lower the car back to the ground to make sure all oil has drained before adding any new stock.
3. The oil filter may be a pain to get off for the first change. It seems like the machine that put it in place from the factory overtorqued the filter. So just be patient, it will come unscrewed if you keep at it.
SC~
I did also notice the oil filter being too tight... normally you should be able to remove it with your hands really. I replaced my filter with a
one which costs about $8. When I bought the filter from the dealer the parts guy "warned" me that my warranty would be void if I did my own oil change 
(not true, just a scare tactic)... and btw SC that was at Stohlman's in case you're curious.Pablo.
Last edited by bluedot; May 12, 2003 at 04:42 PM.
Trending Topics
May 14, 2003, 02:11 PM
#10
Newbie
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: San Diego, CA and Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
since i have the factory oil temp gauge installed, there is a oil temp sensor built into my nut so i cant use a socket wrench, just letting people know.
May 18, 2003, 10:59 AM
#11
Evolving Member
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What about the Break In??
What are some thoughts on changing the oil after the first 500 miles - to remove any shavings, gasket particles, etc from the filter and pan. 
Aside from the cost, I don't see much of a problem..unless.. my S2000 was shipped with special break-in oil to help the rings seat. Honda strongly advised against the 500 mile drain/refill. Anyone know if the same additives came in our car?
Also..why do you want to warm the oil before you change it? I've always heard this but could never make the connection. To me, I prefer cold oil against my skin - not to mention all the oil is in the pan (not draining from the head, cylinders, etc). Just curious..
Aside from the cost, I don't see much of a problem..unless.. my S2000 was shipped with special break-in oil to help the rings seat. Honda strongly advised against the 500 mile drain/refill. Anyone know if the same additives came in our car?
Also..why do you want to warm the oil before you change it? I've always heard this but could never make the connection. To me, I prefer cold oil against my skin - not to mention all the oil is in the pan (not draining from the head, cylinders, etc). Just curious..
May 18, 2003, 11:07 AM
#12
Evolved Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 942
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: What about the Break In??
Originally posted by SmokinJoe
Also..why do you want to warm the oil before you change it? I've always heard this but could never make the connection. To me, I prefer cold oil against my skin - not to mention all the oil is in the pan (not draining from the head, cylinders, etc). Just curious..
Also..why do you want to warm the oil before you change it? I've always heard this but could never make the connection. To me, I prefer cold oil against my skin - not to mention all the oil is in the pan (not draining from the head, cylinders, etc). Just curious..
May 23, 2003, 02:32 PM
#14
Evolving Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: OC
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Re: What about the Break In??
Originally posted by trigeek37
its all about viscosity - the ability of a fliud to pour quickly & smoothly. The warmer the oil the easier the oil will flow out of the oil pan. If you drop your oil that is cold, it will take a very long time for it to flow out, and it may not all flow out.
its all about viscosity - the ability of a fliud to pour quickly & smoothly. The warmer the oil the easier the oil will flow out of the oil pan. If you drop your oil that is cold, it will take a very long time for it to flow out, and it may not all flow out.
I used to work on big diesel engines, and we didn't actually change oil according to how many miles / hours logged on the engine. But rather we took oil samples and analyzed the samples. It's expensive, but with this method you can diagnose a lot of problems - like how much carbon is held in suspension in the oil, how much the oil is being diluted by the fuel, and even when a bearing is starting to go by the metal content in the oil.
