How To: In-Car Valve Spring and Retainer Install
bringing this thread back.....
I just installed springs/retainers using the "rope" method instead of compressed air. Basically, starting with the pistons in #1 and #4, a little less than 1/2 way down, I fed 1/4" dia. nylon rope in through the spark plug hole in cylinder 1 and 4, then rotated the crank to almost TDC, or as much as it would go with the rope in there. Pulled the cams, but left the cam gears and timing belt zip tied together like the evomoto cam install write-up says, and then made sure I kept tension on the timing belt so it couldn't slip on the balance shaft or crank. The tension came from a bungee cord hooked to the underside of the open hood.
Once cylinder 1&4 were done, put the cams back in without rockers, put the cam gears back on, loosened the tension on the timing belt tool and rotated the crank about 180 degrees, and started the process all over again for cylinders 2&3.
I think this method is a decent substitute for pulling the timing belt, or for those who don't have an air compressor.
I just installed springs/retainers using the "rope" method instead of compressed air. Basically, starting with the pistons in #1 and #4, a little less than 1/2 way down, I fed 1/4" dia. nylon rope in through the spark plug hole in cylinder 1 and 4, then rotated the crank to almost TDC, or as much as it would go with the rope in there. Pulled the cams, but left the cam gears and timing belt zip tied together like the evomoto cam install write-up says, and then made sure I kept tension on the timing belt so it couldn't slip on the balance shaft or crank. The tension came from a bungee cord hooked to the underside of the open hood.
Once cylinder 1&4 were done, put the cams back in without rockers, put the cam gears back on, loosened the tension on the timing belt tool and rotated the crank about 180 degrees, and started the process all over again for cylinders 2&3.
I think this method is a decent substitute for pulling the timing belt, or for those who don't have an air compressor.
Last edited by dubbleugly01; Apr 7, 2007 at 10:27 PM.
some people like to work on their own cars, not to save money, but to learn. Doing things a bit different than others is learning imo, and shows ingenuity. It's amazing what new things and techniques can be learned by not following the masses.
Does your head honda mechanic friend always go by the service repair manuals? Or does he do things his way, to save time, effort, etc.?
sorry for the slant, but this is the right audience to ask -- there used to be a nice vividracing.com write-up on camshaft replacement, but it is now gone. Anyone have a link to a similar write-up?? Does the
shop manual detail a cam swap procedure?
thanks in advance
shop manual detail a cam swap procedure?thanks in advance
bringing this thread back.....
I just installed springs/retainers using the "rope" method instead of compressed air. Basically, starting with the pistons in #1 and #4, a little less than 1/2 way down, I fed 1/4" dia. nylon rope in through the spark plug hole in cylinder 1 and 4, then rotated the crank to almost TDC, or as much as it would go with the rope in there. Pulled the cams, but left the cam gears and timing belt zip tied together like the evomoto cam install write-up says, and then made sure I kept tension on the timing belt so it couldn't slip on the balance shaft or crank. The tension came from a bungee cord hooked to the underside of the open hood.
Once cylinder 1&4 were done, put the cams back in without rockers, put the cam gears back on, loosened the tension on the timing belt tool and rotated the crank about 180 degrees, and started the process all over again for cylinders 2&3.
I think this method is a decent substitute for pulling the timing belt, or for those who don't have an air compressor.
I just installed springs/retainers using the "rope" method instead of compressed air. Basically, starting with the pistons in #1 and #4, a little less than 1/2 way down, I fed 1/4" dia. nylon rope in through the spark plug hole in cylinder 1 and 4, then rotated the crank to almost TDC, or as much as it would go with the rope in there. Pulled the cams, but left the cam gears and timing belt zip tied together like the evomoto cam install write-up says, and then made sure I kept tension on the timing belt so it couldn't slip on the balance shaft or crank. The tension came from a bungee cord hooked to the underside of the open hood.
Once cylinder 1&4 were done, put the cams back in without rockers, put the cam gears back on, loosened the tension on the timing belt tool and rotated the crank about 180 degrees, and started the process all over again for cylinders 2&3.
I think this method is a decent substitute for pulling the timing belt, or for those who don't have an air compressor.
I have a cylinder leakdown tester that would work perfect for this. (and you can set the pressure, sort of.)
Thanks for the write-up. Where can I get a spring compressor like that? ( or something similar)
Thanks for the write-up. Where can I get a spring compressor like that? ( or something similar)
http://www.theracingpiston.com/servl...lve-evo/Detail
Beats the snot out of anything else for doing this with the head on.
Beats the snot out of anything else for doing this with the head on.


