How To: In-Car Valve Spring and Retainer Install
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: texas
bringing this thread back.....
I just installed springs/retainers using the "rope" method instead of compressed air. Basically, starting with the pistons in #1 and #4, a little less than 1/2 way down, I fed 1/4" dia. nylon rope in through the spark plug hole in cylinder 1 and 4, then rotated the crank to almost TDC, or as much as it would go with the rope in there. Pulled the cams, but left the cam gears and timing belt zip tied together like the evomoto cam install write-up says, and then made sure I kept tension on the timing belt so it couldn't slip on the balance shaft or crank. The tension came from a bungee cord hooked to the underside of the open hood.
Once cylinder 1&4 were done, put the cams back in without rockers, put the cam gears back on, loosened the tension on the timing belt tool and rotated the crank about 180 degrees, and started the process all over again for cylinders 2&3.
I think this method is a decent substitute for pulling the timing belt, or for those who don't have an air compressor.
I just installed springs/retainers using the "rope" method instead of compressed air. Basically, starting with the pistons in #1 and #4, a little less than 1/2 way down, I fed 1/4" dia. nylon rope in through the spark plug hole in cylinder 1 and 4, then rotated the crank to almost TDC, or as much as it would go with the rope in there. Pulled the cams, but left the cam gears and timing belt zip tied together like the evomoto cam install write-up says, and then made sure I kept tension on the timing belt so it couldn't slip on the balance shaft or crank. The tension came from a bungee cord hooked to the underside of the open hood.
Once cylinder 1&4 were done, put the cams back in without rockers, put the cam gears back on, loosened the tension on the timing belt tool and rotated the crank about 180 degrees, and started the process all over again for cylinders 2&3.
I think this method is a decent substitute for pulling the timing belt, or for those who don't have an air compressor.
Evolving Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 210
Likes: 2
From: Cincinnati Ohio
Has anyone just tried having the car on the ground and in gear with the ebrake on, so you do not have to take the tbelt off? I cant really see the car moving from 1 cylinder with 100 psi in it. Guess I will find out...
And about putting springs on with out taking the head off.. Its not just about money or time, it is about money, time, and not wanting to pull apart a motor with a nice sealed up head gasket. To some people here getting that far in to a motor is a seeming daunting task. I work in the engine business and id much rather do it this way.. Of course im used to changing valve springs on cars at the track all the time... Just usually never have to worry about damn mitsu auto tensioners!!!!!
And about putting springs on with out taking the head off.. Its not just about money or time, it is about money, time, and not wanting to pull apart a motor with a nice sealed up head gasket. To some people here getting that far in to a motor is a seeming daunting task. I work in the engine business and id much rather do it this way.. Of course im used to changing valve springs on cars at the track all the time... Just usually never have to worry about damn mitsu auto tensioners!!!!!
Evolving Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 210
Likes: 2
From: Cincinnati Ohio
I found out.... It moved
. I had a on/off, and a regulator to sneak up on the psi, and it moved just after 60psi. Lesson learned, and time to reset the tbelt.
wanted to add to this thread a neat little tool i found, does it look like it will work? if it does it looks like it would save a huge amount of time...
http://toyotool.com/?gclid=CO_mgeD5xpcCFQ0xawod01d-TA
http://toyotool.com/?gclid=CO_mgeD5xpcCFQ0xawod01d-TA
Part number VT102.https://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/t...page=4
Edit: Use 3/8 socket extensions to hold the cam gears in place after you remove the cams, this way the pistons can rotate without screwing up timing.
Last edited by Adam@MMS; Feb 22, 2009 at 09:42 PM.
Evolving Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Boynton Beach, Fl
**HELPFUL TIP**
When you go to install the keepers, take a small brush and paste a small amount of wheel bearing grease on the grooved part of the valve where the keepers sit. Then after the spring is compressed just push the keepers on the valve and presto, they stick! This way you don't need to hold them with needle nose pliers or any other crazy way you may have concocted in your head.
Since wheel bearing grease is petroleum based it will mix with the oil just fine so don't worry about it causing any problems. I have assembled many cylinder heads using this technique and have never had any problems.
This is not necessary if you are using a tool such as this
When you go to install the keepers, take a small brush and paste a small amount of wheel bearing grease on the grooved part of the valve where the keepers sit. Then after the spring is compressed just push the keepers on the valve and presto, they stick! This way you don't need to hold them with needle nose pliers or any other crazy way you may have concocted in your head.
Since wheel bearing grease is petroleum based it will mix with the oil just fine so don't worry about it causing any problems. I have assembled many cylinder heads using this technique and have never had any problems.
This is not necessary if you are using a tool such as this
Last edited by Epix_; May 9, 2009 at 05:17 AM.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
Great writeup, nice pics...until step 13 that is. I'd say "tricky" is an understatement. Assuming you've just installed new cams you're probably also installing stiffer springs. Those springs are a b*tch to compress. Ideally this is a 2-man job. Good luck.
If pressurizing the cylinder to keep vlaves from dropping and not wanting the crank to move, can you just put a socket and ratchet on the crank pulley bolt and jam it somehow so the pressure does not make it rotate?
I just did this and lost timing when at TDC going from finishing cylinder 2 & 3 then tried to pressurize 4, crank spun, with only 20 PSI in the cylinder with the car in 1st and the e-brake on.
Best way to do this WITHOUT losing timing is to CAREFULLY walk the camgears around to BDC by hand so that 1 and 4 will not push down after you did 2 and 3. This is a pain but much easier then re-doing timing. - don't forget to keep serious tension in the belt.
Best way to do this WITHOUT losing timing is to CAREFULLY walk the camgears around to BDC by hand so that 1 and 4 will not push down after you did 2 and 3. This is a pain but much easier then re-doing timing. - don't forget to keep serious tension in the belt.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: fort bragg, nc
This is where you get the best tool for the job. I bought this and it only took me 40 minutes to do all 16 with the head off.
http://www.euroexportinc.com/product...ducts_id=44428
http://www.euroexportinc.com/product...ducts_id=44428
This is where you get the best tool for the job. I bought this and it only took me 40 minutes to do all 16 with the head off.
http://www.euroexportinc.com/product...ducts_id=44428
http://www.euroexportinc.com/product...ducts_id=44428
To the person that had the timing jump, if you would have read in the thread I as well as a few others said to leave it in gear with the e brake on. Lesson learned but it sucks. I only knew because someone I know told me that his jumped when it wasnt in gear.
Edit: I think that tool would work with the head on, just remember to pressurize the cylinder.
Last edited by Wheatley; Nov 7, 2009 at 02:51 PM.