02 Housing Install w/pics
Some of you guys are making this install sound SO SCARY
Others make it sound like a cinch.
Why doesnt mitsubishi use anti-seize from the factory??
Its ok to use anti-seize on all the bolts/studs when reinstalling correct??
I have a very low mileage IX, are there any gaskets that I should replace??
When reinstalling the hotside, how do you know how to 'clock' it correctly? did you make a mark or something?
Thanks
Others make it sound like a cinch.
Why doesnt mitsubishi use anti-seize from the factory??
Its ok to use anti-seize on all the bolts/studs when reinstalling correct??
I have a very low mileage IX, are there any gaskets that I should replace??
When reinstalling the hotside, how do you know how to 'clock' it correctly? did you make a mark or something?
Thanks
Well, that sucked!
I sprayed every bolt with pb blast, didnt matter, i still twisted a bolt off leaving part of it in the turbine housing. i ruined 4 drill bits trying to drill it out. i couldnt keep the drill centered even after center punching it. the ez-out tool wasnt even close to working. i had to use an air die grinder with a tungsten bit to grind out the hole. I ruined the hole and i didnt want to try putting a helicoil in it, so i made the hole bigger, welded a nut on the back side and got a longer bolt. i had a heck of a time finding a bolt that would work.
all of the heating and cooling cycles that the bolts and studs experience on the turbine housing really makes the bolts brittle.
If i could do it over again, i would have taken more time and not tried to get the bolt out with brute force. i would have tried to finesse it more. lots of pb blast, work the bolt back and forth, over and over, try heating with a propane torch, etc.
good luck, i hope nobody runs into my problem, but it sounds like plenty of people have and there are probably more to come.
I sprayed every bolt with pb blast, didnt matter, i still twisted a bolt off leaving part of it in the turbine housing. i ruined 4 drill bits trying to drill it out. i couldnt keep the drill centered even after center punching it. the ez-out tool wasnt even close to working. i had to use an air die grinder with a tungsten bit to grind out the hole. I ruined the hole and i didnt want to try putting a helicoil in it, so i made the hole bigger, welded a nut on the back side and got a longer bolt. i had a heck of a time finding a bolt that would work.
all of the heating and cooling cycles that the bolts and studs experience on the turbine housing really makes the bolts brittle.
If i could do it over again, i would have taken more time and not tried to get the bolt out with brute force. i would have tried to finesse it more. lots of pb blast, work the bolt back and forth, over and over, try heating with a propane torch, etc.
good luck, i hope nobody runs into my problem, but it sounds like plenty of people have and there are probably more to come.
sometimes even that doesn't work. I busted one and drilled it out. Cutting oil and a good set of bits is your friend. Tapped the hole and used new oem hardware. Pain on the *** either way
^^^ Yeah good bits is key, mine suck. I need to invest in a set of cobalt bits. mine didnt hold up to the heat of drilling, got soft, and lost their edge real fast!
you were lucky it went better for you and you were able to reuse the stock hardware.
you were lucky it went better for you and you were able to reuse the stock hardware.
well you blast the area but you don't want stuff on the sensor. It's beat if you get the 02housing off the car and take out the sensor on a bench where you can get some leverage.
im not sure if it has been covered in the few pages i didnt read but dont make the same mistake i did and forget to put the bolt back on from the original o2 housing bracket, i had the biggest problem trying to find the oil leak that i had because of that thing... i no noob mistake but hopefully this will help someone else so they dont make that mistake also!!!!
I just finger tightened the nuts on the studs first. Then I worked from the outside in when torquing. Once I made the nuts firm with a wrench then I did a ziz-zag pattern. Finally I went through everything and torqued everything to spec. It doesn't have to be torqued exactly to spec. The hidden nuts are a pain to get to with a torque wrench even with extensions and what not. BTW if you're going take the front stock O2 sensor off get a acetylene torch. It makes it much easier. Since I had a megan O2 housing I just bought another sensor then spliced into the stock working harness. Taking the radiator out is the easiest. I was so lazy and replace the turbo, header, O2 housing with the radiator in place. You'll have to gently finesse the whole assembly in.
haha yea i took the radiator out too...it made a huge difference with space and my dad and i torched around the o2 to get it out. and thanks for the manifold help....we were just scared of some sort of sequence or something and if you do it wrong you can mess up the head. so ill just finger tight every bolt then work my way inward in a zig zag pattern torquing them to spec.
Read the install carefully. If you think it's within your mechanical scope then go for it. It's not like taking apart a gear set LOL. It can only go back together one way. It's just a question of how long will it take



