all depends on the install, did u do a boost leak test? I had a similar problem where it was only reading wastegate @ first, checked everything and it reads boost fine. Explain your install a lil bit so I can try to help you out a lil more

 

my avc-r's controller is connected to the BOV's vacume hose going to the intake manifold, and the wastegate acuator vacume hose. then i have a air pressure sensor for the avc-r that is t'ed off of the fuel regulator vacume hose. both the controller and air sensor are electronically connected to the avc-r main console in my cubby under the climate controls. and the controler main consol is also is tapped into the ecu wiring harness. i used to boost fine and know for some odd reason it doesnt boost over 1.60 bars. im wondering if the vacume hoses might be too small in diameter or sumthing its bugging me out. same basic thing with my buddys tru boost....

 

Do boost leak test.

 

Truboost setup instructions from AEM's forum.

With the gauge powered up and the engine running hold the left button for 2 seconds and switch to Run Mode “A”. Then hold both buttons for 2 seconds to get into program mode. Press the left button once to get into program mode “A”. Once in the Program mode for setting “A” start from 10% duty and add 2% duty at a time until the desired boost pressure is achieved. Please remember depending on the engine/turbo/manifold design you might not get any boost increase until you get to 20-30% duty. In this case you can add 5-10% at a time until you get closer to your desired boost level. Once you get to your desired boost turn the key off and back on or press both buttons till you are out of program mode.
Hold both buttons again to get into program mode and keep pressing both buttons till you get to sPr/Gae(waste gate crank pressure). You can see page7 to follow the tree structure. Start from 1psi and increase the Waste gate crack pressure 1 psi at a time until you go over your desired boost target. For example: If your target boost is 15psi and you add 1 psi to your waste gate crack pressure and your boost goes up to 16psi you’ll need to go back to your previous waste gate setting.
Depending on your turbo, manifold, engine characteristics or combinations you might end up with boost pressure dropping off at high RPM or Boost pressure spiking high at high RPM. There isn’t anything that can be done under these situations. Just make sure you follow the steps above to accurately and quickly set up your Tru-boost controller.

I run my duty at 60-62 depending on weather for 21-22 psi. I have my wastegate spring (crack pressure) set at 7.30 although I'm going to try raising it because I think the wastegate is opening a little too early.

 

From the manual:
"Spring Pressure
Enter the waste gate spring pressure. The Tru Boost will keep the boost solenoid open from 1 psi until boost exceeds the selected value. This value can be adjusted to reduce lead in boost spikes ore reduce spool up time. If the spring pressure is unknown, a conservative starting value of 5 is suggested."

I was wondering if using the provided filter instead of another AN fitting with a hose barb plumbed back into the intake port where the OEM solenoid is Tee'd would eliminate a potential way for air to leak in and out of the metering system. I could see this providing for a bit more inconsistent boost since the port 1-3 connection will be seeing vacuum instead of atmospheric pressure, but I figured the metering of the air might not be a bad thing.

The good thing is that the Tru boost only opens to the filter at 1 psi to the spring crack rate. This means that you don't have a constant leak, but do still have one a decent amount of time.

For reference my crack setting is 10.5. I normally hold about 12psi on the stock IX waste gate, but with fluctuations in temperature I was seeing strange spikes sometimes. That might hurt my spool a tiny bit, but I think it helps keep things consistent. I guess what I don't understand about this is that I would assume you wouldn't want to send pressurized air to the solenoid until you were closer to the boost level you wanted to be at, but I'm not sure if the algorythm has some kind of built in ramp-up or what.

 

I actually did some tinkering last night in the freezing **** cold chicago weather, and I tried to adjust the crack point higher. It seemed like anything over 17 psi (I'm at 59% duty cycle right now for 21ish psi) and I had a 23.5 or higher spike. After it got a little colder anything above 16.2 would produce similar results, so I'm sticking with that for now. Spool up seems to be a little quicker.

Also, the "surging" I was talking about before was probably because I was at a lower duty cycle than the crack pressure I was using, so you go over the crack pressure say 17psi and then bounce back to your lower duty cycle that was set for 14psi, then repeat. If the unit is off the crack pressure is not used, so you will only see wastegate and should not surge like this.

 

i am installing one today and tuning.... i will post pics of install and let you guys know how it goes...

 

my car was set last week but I had some problems with the manual so I changed to turboost

I have the same problems in my evo 8.

if some one knows who to set this tru boost I need help on this . I yost need 25psi

step by step

this are my modes
MOTOR
HKS 272 CAMSHAFTS
WALBRO FUEL PUMP GAS
HKS ADJUSTABLE CAM SPROCKETS
TURBOSMART DUAL PORT BLOW OFF VALVE
AMS EVO UPPPER IC PIPE
AMS EVO LOWER IC PIPE
AMS EVO FUEL RAIL
AMS INTERCOOLER EVO VIII
NGK IRIDIUM SPARK PLUG SET
FORCED PERFORMANCE EVO GREEN TURBOCHARGER
680CC DENSO INJECTORS

EXHAUST
ULTIMATE RACING
3" STAINLESS STEEL TURBO-BACK EXHAUST SYSTEM
3" STAINLESS STEEL DOWNPIPE
3" STAINLESS STEEL TEST-PIPE
3" STAINLESS STEEL CAT-BACK EXHAUST

more in
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2164900

 

How did you get the wires through the firewall. Where at? Just having trouble finding a good spot!

 

Well the duty cycle will be different for every car, I am holding 23/24 and I am set at 65, when it gets colder I have to bump it down to 62/63 depending on tempature. I keep my cold tempature boost setting as B. just do a couple pulls in 3rd and 4th and adjust it a little at a time untill you get your desired boost setting then don't forget to save it.

 

Passenger side grommet on the firewall or through the drivers side door grommet and up through the inside fender. I suggest you use the Firewall.

 

OK BUT WHO I PUT THAT INFO IN THE PROGRAM MODE ?

 

Page 7 should help you out, if not just read the whole thing.

http://tunertools.com/prodimages/AEM...st_30-4350.pdf

 

thanks ,


but I still dont know who to get 24psi

 

Well you will have to adjust your A setting duty cycle a little at a time untill you hold your desired boost in 3rd or 4th gear. It took me a little while on the dyno to get mine dialed in, just take it slow and move the number upward and then do a pull and see what you are holding. Also after each run clear out the peak boost and do another pull. This will tell you what you are spiking.

I am at 23/24 and my settings are

A- Duty Cycle 64
B- Duty Cycle 62 (cold weather)
Spring crack pressure - 11psi
Alarm - 25psi