I've been using this Catch Can for the past two months with great results. No more dirty intake and turbo, always clean when I check it. It very free flowing and the baffling works very well.
I used my wifes Knitting tool to push the un-cut pad strands in to the can, until it was completely packed. I mounted the can in front of the drivers side wheel, next to the UICP. There a bracket down there that I used to strap to, down hill from the intake. This whole thing cost me about $35 and maybe an hour of my time. Thanks Hokiruu for the DIY.

 

When you say to connect the line coming from the catch can to the inlet side of the turbo and leave the breather tube in its original place where does catch can line connect on the inlet side of the turbo.

 

"Turbo inlet" can be misleading. To me, turbo inlet means the part of the turbo housing where the air goes in. In which case it has nothing to do with a catch can. You must be referring to that other guy's long post which was copy and pasted from somewhere else about catch cans in general, in which case, I don't know. They are probably referring to the intake tube that goes from the airbox and MAF TO the turbo inlet. Don't worry about the "inlet side of the turbo." All you need to know for this is that there is a vacuum hose coming from the front right corner of valve cover and goes into the intake tube between the MAF and turbo. This may be what was referred to as the "turbo inlet." You will see where this attaches to a nipple on top of that intake tube, about in the middle. With this setup, you simply put the can in this line between the valve cover and inlet tube. Does that clarify things?

 

This is awsome! I'm going to order mine tonight! Worth doing the double set up?

 

I've been running the single for about seven months, and it works really well, but I do still get a very small residue film in the Intake. Before, it was a small pool of oil that sat on the Turbo inlet, where the Intake connects. I just ordered a second Can from Peg. to make this a dual, if I was starting from scratch, I would get two and make it a dual from the start.

 

The DIY looks way more fun but how does everyone feel about this for 30

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oil-C...spagenameZWDVW

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unive...spagenameZWDVW

 

The key is in the Baffle. Those do not come with any kind of baffle and will just pass right through.

 

can you refresh me on what the baffle is? Thanks!

 

that ebay one actually doesn't look bad for the money at all, assuming the bottom drain knob threads won't leak, and you can still get some kind of baffle material inside it.

HOWEVER...

- I think the petpock valve on the pegasus unit is preferable over that fancy looking, but still easy to leak, fall off, or lose knurled knob on the ebay one.
built-in petcock valve > detatchable knob with threads that might leak (can't teflon tape those if they leak, unless you want it to be a PITA every time you empty it!)

- The way i look at it, the less openings and threads the better, especially on something that cheap. The ebay one has lots of parts and holes and threads. For that price I would not expect very low tolerances on all those pieces, especially the threads, but who knows? Besides possible oil leaks, they are more places for the vacuum to be lost if they are not snug.

- The pegasus unit is still significantly smaller, which i like personally.

- I trust and prefer to supoprt a real race parts supplier from the US' parts over some "designed in Japan" and made who knows where by who knows who ebay thing

Regarding the dual-tank concerns: I don't think it is necessary to have two seperate tanks. Unless someone can explain the advantages of dual tanks, you could just run both the intake side breather valve and PCV valve to the same tank, couldn't you? That's what every Japanese race and drift car I have seen does, if they even bother with the PCV valve.

 

Good stuff thanks! Baffle?

 

What is the purpose of the clear tubing that runs from the top of the can to the bottom of the can on those ebay models? To see how full it is? help the flow? Thanks!

 

"Baffle" is the material inside the can, which serves the purpose of being a surface upon which oil vapor condenses. Without baffle material, the air that contains the oil particles would simply flow through the tank, and very little of the oil particles actually are caught in the tank, since there is less material for them to pass over and condensate upon. In this case it is the coarse stainless scouring pad.

The clear tubing on those other cans is simply an oil-level gauge. Pretty unnecessary IMO. It's not like it's filling up at such a fast rate that you need to keep a careful eye on it like that. Just open the petcock over a bottle or something every once in awhile. Maybe some oil comes out, maybe not, no big deal.
IMO those silly tubes are more of a gimmick to try to justify the overpriced cans as a "device" product of sorts. In my experience, they just get all gross looking over time from the oil inside and the heat in the engine bay, are another thing to break or disconnect accidentally while working on the car, and/or leak, and they get coated with oil on the inside, look crappy, and make it hard to see how much oil is in there anyway. IIRC the ARC, Forge and saikou-michi tanks don't even include these, and these are touted as some of the "best" (most expensive) around. I could be wrong, but I don't care, I don't need one.

 

Great stuff!

Very well written, I think it would be helpful to point out what the exact scouring pad you got was... I'm looking at all sorts of scouring pads- not positive which the stainless is?

 

weaponR sits on the strut bar, works good and looks great.
pcv side I use a small one and empty it out every few days, seems to collect a lot of oil. like 4 of those 2 little caps every week.

 

Sounds like you could simplify your setup by using just one "medium" size one for both, instead of one massive one, and one tiny one that needs emptying so frequently. I can think of one that might just suit the bill