^+1 if the unit is installed per directions there will be little to no flutter and it's way better than anything out there.

 

I've done boost leak test and i've had the gauge over 30psi with no leaks.. Why would this be needed??

 

because when you let off at 10psi your bov doesn't open.

 

Did you do the test with the BOV on the car? Or by itself?

 

Based on the number of posts in this thread, it doesn't appear that many people have tried this. I decided to give it a go because it seems like it offers stock DV daily drivability along with high boost holding capability, and its only $100. Here's a pic of my install that I just finished up. I wanted to have the pressure switch closer to the DV, but its not rated for the temperatures that it would see if I had bathed in the radiator air flow. It can be seen in the pic, but I tapped the bottom of the UICP for the pre-throttle body pressure source

 

^^Notice any issues with compressor surge/flutter?

 

I installed a new Evo 9 DV along with the Stop Leak kit. So far, its working noticably better than my original stock Evo 9 which had a tendency to flutter a bit when cold.

 

still running my LSK as well, though ive switched from the Greddy valves to the Synchronic BOV (the Greddy's worked good, but i got tired of replacing diaphragms) not a hint of surge or flutter, even with a "Pull" style valve

I am also running the switched port on the LSK to the turbo intake side (constant vacum) so when the LSK valve switches over at 15+ PSI it has a vacum on the underside of the diaphragm pulling the valve shut

IMO, the stock valve(OEM metal valve) spring rate is slightly too high & may not be suited well for this mod, while it works, a valve with an adjustable preload is better suited in this setup. one of the main benefits of this setup is that it allows you to have equal or better sealing while running a much lower spring rate/preload. low springrate/preload allows for quicker valve opening & better/smoother drivability. sure, modding the OEM valve can be done & will give increased sealing at high boost pressures, but without lowering the spring rate, your only realizing some of the benefits

 

...some confusion here. The "gus mod" is different than the dejon tools leak stop kit. The LSK come with an air switch that will allow the valve to open at anything under 15 psi very quickly and stay open making surge a thing of the past or close to it.

 

so, am i reading the gus mod correctly. you jb weld the hole by the diaphram and tap a new one on the side. thats it? no screws, no tubes, nothing else?

 

Its probably better to tap the hole and plug it with a screw.

 

Confused too on the regular metal evo 9 BOV... ^ tap the hole by the diaphram correct? And put a screw in it? Then drill a new hole on the side and.... then what?

 

Look at the dejon tool website.

 

I recently ordered the LSK for my Evo 8 with built 2.0/FP Green and installed it per the instructions. I assume it’s installed correctly because it holds boost to at least 30psi.

Before installation, my crushed 1g BOV was limited to about 24psi before tapering to 21psi. I settled on the 1g BOV because of my Buschur intake pipe flange and its ability to minimize surge.

Since installing the LSK, I can hold more boost but I am suffering massive ‘surging’ (not sure if it’s surge, presurge or flutter) at around 15 psi.

Is there general concensus on what minimizes the 15psi surge? Part throttle is important when squeezing seconds out of lap times!

 

Yeah, I had the same thing. Its BOV flutter caused by the pressure switch engaging and disengaging during part throttle boost at around 15 psi. Its really annoying when trying to smoothly pass without downshifting on a two lane road. I ended up removing the SLK.